Lacing problem

[Doug Lester]

I really like lacing but that's not the problem. The problem is that if I have to cut lacing holes with thonging chisel and I've used three layers of 6oz leather in making the sheath the chisel cuts a groove in the leather on the side that I cutting my hole from. This is only a problem when I'm making a sheath with a seperate front and back with a welt in between. I can use a thinner welt when making a pouch sheath. Does anyone know of a make of thonging chisel that has longer tines that will cut through three layers of 6oz leather without messing up the top layer? Should I just stick with a hole punch when it comes to thicker work or would I do better to use a lighter weight leather to make sheaths with?

Doug Lester

[sheathmaker]

Doug, you can approach your problem from a couple of different angles. Now first of all let me say I don't lace...I have but not in a long while.

If you make a longer tine thonging chisel then you will be subject to flex and even bending the tooling in that much thickness or go with a heavier chisel and have your holes too big. Generally punching round holes will look very good when the lacing is done, but there's still the thickness to contend with.

I believe what I would do is skive the outer 3/8 inch to 1/2 inch or so of the inside of the top and bottom sheath body pieces down to about 50% of their original thickness. Reduce the leather used for the welt by 50% of the original thickness. It will still do its job. This should effectively eliminate the equivalent about one of those three 6oz. layers without any adverse effect on the strength and integrity of the sheath. It will also give it a slimmer look all over.

Paul

[Doug Lester]

Thank you, Paul. The solution was so obvious it's no wonder that I never thought of it. I guess that I ordered those blades for my skivers for some reason. I think that I'm going to remake a sheath for one of my knives and give it a try.

Doug Lester

[Crex]

I agree with Paul, although being a knifemaker first, I "had" to make a longer tined lacing slotter/chisel/thingy. Didn't have trouble with flexing, but unless you have your bevels just right it will drift as it goes through the leather when you have it that thick. Nut maker for sure. You can do pilot holes first with a drill press and sharp drill bit to get the alignment squared but that's alot of holes and trouble.
Besides, the reduction skiving that Paul describes will give you a much more pleasing look around the edges......won't look so "blockish" and bulky, especially if you take the time to bone-burnish the edges.

[Doug Lester]

I did glue up a sheath and I did notice the reduction in the thickness of the edge gave a more refined look and it still held the knife just fine. I still have to lace it up. Will post pictures.

Doug Lester

[Doug Lester]

IMG_0039.jpg

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This is a new sheath that I made using the above suggestions. I skived down the edges and the lacing chisel went through fine without marking the leather. The lace pattern is the double loop or double cordovan, depending on the lacing book. Skiving the edges of the fronts and backs down combined with a thinner welt also let the lace fit the sheath better.

Doug Lester

[Crex]

Turned out very nice Doug.
I've been doing a lot more that way, especially neck knife sheaths. Just easier on the eye. My Tipman doesn't do well with the tapers so these are just the smaller slimmer blade sheaths that I hand stitch or lace, depending. Not so hard after the first one or two. I actually use my belt grinder slowed way down to taper/feather the edges, little quicker for me.