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The Outpost This forum is dedicated to all who share a love for, and a desire to make good knives, and have fun doing it. We represent a diverse group of smiths and knifemakers who bring numerous methods to their craft. |
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#1
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Saws and scrapers, folder tools
More folder tools. From left to right 1. single point scraper made from small file, width about 1/16". This shaves the bottom of a slot bit by bit. 2.Slot side scraper to bevel, widen or equalize slots. 3. Home made antler saw from spring stock. Typically spring stock has rounded edges, the round was ground off one edge then cold upset to widen the saw a bit, helps to make it not bind in the antler. Teeth were filed in with 3 corner file. 4. next two are recipicating saw blades, one has been ground to a point. 5. homemadesaw made from precision ground flatstock, 1/8" in width.This has no kerf like #3. When filing teeth in antler saws I only eyeball the teeth spacing, they vary a bit but cut well. I have used OI flat stock not heat treated since antler is pretty soft compared to the saw. |
#2
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Cool, Gene. Is no.1 the file tang? It appears so. Neat use for every part of the file. |
#3
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Yep, the tang is the scraper. I have used a saw to begin a slot about 1/8" deep then used the single point scraper to remove the rest. It removes a nice curled thin piece out kinda like a plane. |
#4
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Thanks for all the posts Gene. I love making my own tools. Haven't made a saw from scratch yet but have modified a few. Glad you aren't hung up with exact tooth spacing, makes me feel a bit better when I find out someone thinks along the same lines as me. ghostdog |
#5
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Keeping this and the Clasp knife instructions current. |
#6
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Cool! A Shaker peg for a handle. |
#7
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Saws and scrapers, folder tools
I made my scraper more like a drawknife I took a dowel and mounted a cut masonry nail with the end shaped and hardened in the middle of the dowel so I can grab it with both hands and pull it towards me scraping the curl. Scrapers work great on antler and let you make slots where the bottom curves up to follow the curve of the tine. (I looked through every piece of stag at Kovals once hunting a piece that would match the curve of a blade I had forged---it was a gift and I wanted it done right!) Scrapers also don't throw that toxic dust around and smell like burnt bone or a *bad* visit to the dentist... I also took a jigsaw blade and mounted a bolt through the hole in it to make a "pull saw" to start a slot with. Pulling can be a lot easier to manage than pushing a saw blade when you are working with thin blades and hard materials. Bog Iron |
#8
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Re: Saws and scrapers, folder tools
Gene, you solved a problem that's been bugging me for two weeks. I've been trying to find a clean way to slot handles for some wood carving knives I'm making out of 1/16" O1; most saw blades' kerfs are either too narrow or too thick. But hey! I just made myself a saw like yours out of the same O1 stock I'm using for the blades; perfect fit. I would never have thought of this without your post. Many thanks! Dave |
#9
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Handy info for NT folder makers. |
#10
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saw jig
Ya know(if you had acess to a raidial armsaw) , I was just thinking you could probobly take a block of wood like a 2x4 about a foot long and cut a "V" grove down the middle of it and rig up some sort of clamp that would hold your handle material tight in the "V" grove and then you would put it on the raidial armsaw and rip a blade slot right down the center. Not very Neo Tribal but I bet even the most inexperienced knifemaker/Handlemaker could wip out alot of quality handles pretty quick. And about the handle materials, I really don't know if it would be safe to use this teqnique on antler or bone though just because I have never cut antler on a power saw before but if you would put a fine toothed blade on i'm sure you will be fine. |
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blade, knife, knives |
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