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#1
12-05-2004, 10:52 AM
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My first DDR3 folderkit finished !
Hello !
I am finnaly finished with my first DDR3 folder kit. I hope you like it as much as I do. The scales are made of stabilized buckeye burl and the knife have a 600 grit satin finish.     ------------------------------------------------------------- Fredrik Olsson from sweden |
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#2
12-05-2004, 11:17 AM
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WOW!!! That turned out really nice!!! I love your file-work!
Chris Nilluka |
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#5
12-06-2004, 06:32 AM
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Impressive indeed. I would love to see this with some shimmer on the handles. Ren wax?
Clean and tidy filework. What a gratifying knife! Coop __________________ Jim Cooper - Capturing the Artistry and Significance of Handmade Knives  ?? New website improvement for 2010 - Over 5000 images searchable by maker's name! ?? |
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#6
12-06-2004, 10:36 AM
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Way to go Fredol!!!
It turned out great! I'm sure you feel good about this one, and rightfully so. Good looking scales...Nice finish on the blade, and your attractive filework is quite striking, original, and cleanly executed. Well done sir!!! So what do you think of that DDRIII?...Isn't that a heck of a nice folder? I love the heft...and the action is terrific, especially for such a large folder. And when it's done as nicely as this, you wind up with a seriously sweet knife! One very small observation for the future,... When you countersink your screw holes, try and keep them all at the same depth. It's one of those little things, that can really make a difference as you gaze across the knife from front to rear. Overall, great job!!! Can't wait to see your next one...  BTW- It looks like you were finally able to get the posting thing figured out...Good for you (I can still recall how it took me forever to get the hang of that).  Dennis Greenbaum Yeah Baby! 
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Last edited by Osprey Guy; 12-06-2004 at 10:40 AM. |
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#7
12-06-2004, 04:39 PM
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Thanks for all replys.
I have not found any good wax here. I tested carwax on some scrap peices but I did not like the smell of it  Can not find ren wax in any shop here, what can I use ren wax for beside polish folder kits ? Maybe it will help me find where I can buy it.The holes are countersinked at the same depth but I have made the scales thicker at the end of the knife like the DDR3-RR at the orderpage at knifekits.com. It looks in the picture that the scales are flat but in reality it is curved so it is thicker in the middle there the screws are and gets thiner at the edges (new design maybe) and it feels very good to hold. The epoxy/dust fix turned out realy good too. I am very pleased with the folder knife kit. It was fun to build and I really like the clicking sound then the blade locks up !!! I do not reget building one  --------------------------------------------- Fredrik from Sweden |
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#8
12-06-2004, 07:43 PM
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Fredrik-
I can indeed see how the scales are "swelled' toward the butt. It's a great look, and I bet that's really comfortable in the hand. I know this may seem unnecessarily picky, and I apologize if I appear to be "harping" on the subject...I'm just trying to help you make an even better knife. This seemingly minor detail is just the sort of little thing, that in the future could very well come to the attention of more sophisticated, potential buyers/collectors. When I say that one should maintain the same depth of countersink, I meant the depth in relationship to the surface...of both the scales and the bolsters. The depth of the countersink should not be determined by the relationship to the liners. Unless my eyes are seriously playing tricks on me, it's quite evident from the amount of shadow in each of the holes, that the holes closest to the butt (where you've so nicely "swelled" the scales) are countersunk considerably deeper than the holes at the front of the knife. The safest way to check this and maintain consistency, is to stop every so often and drop a "test" screw into each hole, as you're drilling your countersinks. What you want is to have the heads of all the screws, all at the same uniform height. In this case, it is easy to spot from your photograph, that the heads of the screws are nearly flush with the surface of the bolsters, and yet they drop progressively deeper into the holes as you move towards the butt. This is obviously happening in relationship to your scales, as they get thicker toward the rear. It's not at all unusual, if the maker has chosen to make a particular area of the scales thicker than the rest (as you have with this knife), that the supplied screws (from the kit) will not be long enough to accomodate the additional thickness. In a case such as this, where you've decided that you want thicker scales, you'll have to purchase longer screws. In other words, the heads of the screws stay at the same height, it's the length of the screws that has to change (and be modified) as the thickness changes (knifekits.com sells several different styles of 1-72 screws, all of which start out much longer than the screws, which are supplied with the kit. 1-72's are also available from a number of other sources). I hope I was able to explain that clearly. This was not meant in any way as a criticism...You've done a fantastic job on this kitknife! This is just part of the learning process (I promise you.... Every single knifemaker here will tell you that he's always learning, regardless of how many years he's been making knives). Please accept my comments in the spirit in which they were given. These forums are dedicated to sharing and exchanging knowledge, and offering support to each other in any way we can. BTW- I went to that order page at knifekits.com. There are photos of two sample DDRIII's, and I see where the one on top has a swelled handle, much like you've done here. I also see where the countersunk hole near the butt is too deep. Ideally, it should not be that deep, and I bet that the person who made that sample knife would be the first to admit that it could have been done better. (I was guilty of doing the same thing on my earlier knives..until I was fortunate enough to have someone point out my mistake). Dennis Greenbaum Yeah Baby!
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Last edited by Osprey Guy; 12-06-2004 at 08:06 PM. |
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#9
12-07-2004, 01:59 AM
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Knife
I really appreciate your comment !!!
And it is a good advice to buy longer screws for the thicker parts. I have learned much by making this knife. And it is a bit addiction to build this kit. So maybe I will be posting pictures of my second knife if I get ideas about some good filework or see a beutiful wood scale on ebay  -------------------------------------------- Fredrik from sweden |
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#10
12-08-2004, 09:52 AM
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Hello
I want to buy to myself such so at Fredols but with Button Lock Can specify to me the exact address in the Internet where I can see details from which this knife is assembled I badly know English and I can not find itself Thanks
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#11
12-08-2004, 05:01 PM
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The DDRIII Button Lock is not yet ready...
But when it is finally available for sale, you will be able to buy it at: www.knifekits.com It would probably be a good idea to "pre-order" now,... From what I have seen here, I am certain the first run will sell out as soon as they are ready to ship! (I am definitely looking forward to checking out one of these myself). Dennis Greenbaum Yeah Baby!
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#14
12-09-2004, 08:24 AM
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That you think what knife better
DDR3 As at Fredols or this knife http://www.knifenetwork.com/classifi...details&id=447. I will need a knife which well to sit in a hand __________________ Yaroslav from Moscow :cool: |
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#15
12-09-2004, 11:44 AM
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The DDRIII Button Lock is OF COURSE one handed!
(The DDRIII is also one-handed. All liner locks are designd to be one-handed). The Camillus "Heat" is a "cool", one-handed opener... ...and why not?,... it was designed by Darrel! But the DDRIII Button Lock, which you make and customize yourself, will be much better! Dennis Greenbaum Yeah Baby!
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