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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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2 brick forge issues
So I was slow this weekend and decided to try my hand at 2 brick forge. I picked up a burner from usaknifeworks that they use in the atlas forge. It came with a regulator, hose and burner.
I made the forge and hollowed out the center. The hole was 2" in diameter. I drilled the hole at the top right hand side looking at the hole. I turned on the burner and it kept blowing out. So I drilled a 1/4" hole in the back. The burner lit and ran for a while at low temp. I then started to increase the flame. The side the flame was hitting get orange but the right side and top right did not get orange. I put a chunk of steel in and about 10 minutes the steel was orange. I turned the gas off happy with what I did. Then the bottom brick cracked. I guess from cooling to fast? Any suggestions or help is appreciated The last photo was showing the furnace cement that bubbled. I was able to chip the bubbles off. I need to add another coat if you think its ok to do so with the crack. I have 2 hore bricks to use if I need to. Maybe a 1 brick forges? IS my location of the nozzle ok? IS the burner to hot for the brick? Brick was from USAknifemaker. Thanks Tim |
#2
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Not bad over all. It might help if you angled the burner so that it met the inside curve of the wall at a tangent. The idea is to get the gasses to follow the curve of the wall and start a swirling motion. If you can get the gasses moving like that the forge will heat more evenly.
Don't worry about the cracked brick, they all crack sooner or later and as long as the crack doesn't cause the forge to fall apart there is no real harm done. If you have a little more of that cement you can spread some over the crack. You really don't need to coat the interior of that forge since it's made of brick. Maybe if you were coating with Bubble Alumina or ITC-100 there might be a reason to do it but the brick is already made of refractory cement so adding more doesn't gain anything.... |
#3
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Thanks. So if I understand the burner should be angled towards the top more to hit the top of the hole of the cavity in stead of the side wall? Should the burner also enter at a angle instead of 90?
Is the burner to hot? I have some more cement and im stopping at tractor supply to pick up some flat stock to reinforce the brick. Last edited by remist17; 06-29-2014 at 07:41 AM. |
#4
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I've attached a picture that illustrates how the burner might enter the forge. The main idea is to avoid pointing the burner directly at your blade and to try to get the gas to follow the interior curve of the forge body.
No, the burner isn't too hot. It might be a little bit too large for your forge body but I think its still too early to judge that...... Last edited by Ray Rogers; 01-12-2015 at 04:21 PM. |
#5
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Well I put cement on all the cracks. Once that dries ill work the hole so it goes off the roof. Ill post a photo once I get it done.
thanks for the support I appreciate it. Is that photo show kaowool and cement or just kaowool Last edited by remist17; 06-29-2014 at 07:03 PM. |
#6
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Thanks for the tips about swirling, I think this is why mine doesn't work very well!
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Tags |
art, back, blade, coat, flat, forge, hand, heat, hot, knife, made, post, steel, supply, tips |
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