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Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith.

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  #1  
Old 03-05-2008, 03:11 PM
Dana Hackney's Avatar
Dana Hackney Dana Hackney is offline
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coin edge texture on guards?

Hi Ed and all,

I want to try my hand at making a slim (1/8") oval guard and I want to "texture" the perimeter
so it looks like the edge of coin (like a quarter). Is there an easy method to doing this?
I would like to follow up, afterwards, with some hot bluing to finish it off.

Many thanks,
Dana
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  #2  
Old 03-05-2008, 04:29 PM
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Ed Caffrey Ed Caffrey is offline
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Hi Dana!

If your really good, you can do it with a "knife edge" file, but I just ain't that good!

When I do something like that I use a fine checkering file. You can hunt them down on Brownell's website, but hold onto your wallet....they are pretty spendy. I own a total of three different checkering files, the total value on them is just over $100 (that was when I purchased them).


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  #3  
Old 03-05-2008, 04:47 PM
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Thanks Ed!

I do own ONE of those files. I think I have the 20LPI size and I think that was the coarsest
one I could find. Is that what you would suggest? Are there any "tricks" to using this sort of
file?

Off subject: I ordered some of Chuck Bybee's G10 for spacer material and he mentioned that
you either had or were going to try some yourself. I was just curious as to how you like the stuff.

Thanks again,
Dana
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  #4  
Old 03-05-2008, 05:10 PM
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Karl B. Andersen Karl B. Andersen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Caffrey
Hi Dana!

If your really good, you can do it with a "knife edge" file, but I just ain't that good!

When I do something like that I use a fine checkering file. You can hunt them down on Brownell's website, but hold onto your wallet....they are pretty spendy. I own a total of three different checkering files, the total value on them is just over $100 (that was when I purchased them).
Place the guard in a vise with the bottom of the guard up and start there. Try to keep square with the guard edge.
Just be deliberate with your strokes and file until you feel the file teeth hit bottom. You'll notice that there is no more resistance as the teeth of the file no longer have anything to cut! All of a sudden the file will just slide free.
Now, move over, but leave one or two teeth of the file in the grooves you already cut! This keeps your spacing consistant. If the guard is oval, you'll need to sort of roll the file over as it goes around the guard. In other words, don't try to cut the entire width of the file at once, especially when you start a new section, as it is flat and the guard is not.
My best advice would be to cut an oval piece of steel out of some mild stock and do a practice run FIRST!


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  #5  
Old 03-06-2008, 09:57 AM
tomh tomh is offline
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Karl would you happen to have a picture or 2 of the way you described filing those grooves? My dyslexic brain is having trouble visualizing that.
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  #6  
Old 03-06-2008, 10:38 AM
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Thanks Karl!

Got it. I will definitely do some practicing first.

Best regards,
Dana
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  #7  
Old 03-06-2008, 10:55 AM
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I have used a thread cleaning file for cutting serations before. You get eight different tooth pitches to choose from on each file. I think the file cost around $20 at the local harware store.

As Karl mentioned I used a traingle file to start one guide groove so I had an indexing groove for the teeth. Otherwise it will skate all over and leave a mess before getting clean grooves started. The finer TPI seem to work better.


Last edited by B.Finnigan; 03-06-2008 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 03-06-2008, 03:24 PM
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Thanks Mr. Finnigan!

A couple more good tips to add to the process. I like the idea of the thread chasing file.
I'll have to go get one. It might be nice to try the next size up from 20tpi to get a slightly
coarser texture.

Best regards,
Dana
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  #9  
Old 03-06-2008, 05:22 PM
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I bought the file just for that purpose. If I need to clean threads I will chase them with the appropriate die and do a much nicer job.
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  #10  
Old 03-06-2008, 07:37 PM
tomh tomh is offline
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Now I am tracking! Seeing the thread chaser helped me figure out what a checkering file might look like. Sounds like a checkering file can only cut so deep. I really like that coin edge effect on bowies.

Thanks for posting the pic B. Finnigan!
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  #11  
Old 03-06-2008, 08:25 PM
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Here is what the serations look like on copper (20 tpi). Even on that soft gummy obnoxious metal it still cuts pretty clean. You could always hit them with a triangle jewlers file to get them spiffy clean or modify the pitch if needed. The file also cuts somewhat unidirectional so you stay in the grooves better. When it starts to slide real smooth then you have bottomed out and hit the max depth.


Last edited by B.Finnigan; 03-08-2008 at 05:31 PM. Reason: spelling, always spellig
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  #12  
Old 03-08-2008, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomh
Now I am tracking! Seeing the thread chaser helped me figure out what a checkering file might look like. Sounds like a checkering file can only cut so deep. I really like that coin edge effect on bowies.

Thanks for posting the pic B. Finnigan!
can't see much, but here is the listing:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...488&st=file&s=


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  #13  
Old 03-08-2008, 05:30 PM
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Here is a close up of one, the teeth look identical to the thread repair file teeth. It looks like they size them by TPI also which would make sense.




Last edited by B.Finnigan; 03-17-2008 at 01:39 AM.
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  #14  
Old 03-10-2008, 09:53 PM
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Just ordered a set of 5 from Brownells. Like Ed said they are pricey. I looked at the thread restoring files and did not like the coarseness of the teeth. It seems they work better than I thought. I may have to try them since they are a bit cheaper.


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  #15  
Old 03-17-2008, 01:31 AM
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McMaster carries a thread repair file that has 9, 10, 12, 16, 20, 27, 28, 32 TPI teeth for $10.48. For another $10.48 you can get the other one that has the in between pitches and have all the bases covered for $22.

I personally would rather have a small file to do small jobs and larger ones then a large file that can only do large jobs.
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