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#1
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2nd opinion
So I've been having some frustration with my HT. I've NEVER had problems getting hamons exactly where I want, but I HT a blade a few weeks ago and the hamon dropped all the way to within 2mm of the edge. I start a knew knife, closer but there was a break in the hamon line. This is today's attempt. Need some second opinions. Doing everything the same, normalizing, same forge, same parks 50
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#2
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1084? Same batch as before?
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#3
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#4
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1095. Fresh piece of steel from Aldo
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#5
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1095 is notorious for alloy variance. I would guess that this piece/batch has significant differences from your previous batches. Some of the variances observed in the past for 1095 include failure to harden sufficiently and the inability to display a hamon...
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#6
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I'd polish it up and etch it out. Your not clean enough to make a proper determination. The real bummer is after spending several hours polishing/etching a few cracks rear their ugly heads. I'm guessing that's a scratch in the blade and not a crack. Polish it up using sand paper down to at least 1000 grit then etch. It should start to pop if you did it right.
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#7
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I've had problems with all the 1095 I've used. I bet it's just that batch you have. One thing that conserns me tho, are you quenching it with those deep scratches in the blade? Or do you grind your bevels after HT?
__________________ J, Saccucci Knives, JSK |
#8
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120 is the coarsest I quench.
Its gotta be the steel. I did a full quench, no clay, and still was getting weird soft spots. This ain't my first rodeo, I know when the steel is at critical temp. Redid the blade, again, with a bar of 1084, so we'll see how that goes. If it happens to that too, well maybe I'm goin nuts |
#9
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Eli, you are automatically catagorized as a nut once you make that first knife.....so you are deep in the can.
I'm with the others on 1095, really hard to get consistent results from batch to batch. I do normally take mine up to 400 grit before clay coating just to be sure there are no deep scratches I might miss, but that's just me. I'm not paranoid, I know they are all out to get me! Good luck. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#10
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Ive cracked a few blades I forgot to bring up to 120 and were left at 36, but I've never had a problem at 120. Not to say 400 ain't good too. Safe than sorry.
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#11
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Eli you are nuts but what has that got to do with it?
__________________ Austin Colvin |
#12
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Quote:
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#13
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I'm thinking it's a problem with the steel too.
No one else has asked, so, where did you get the steel? __________________ A good friend told me one time about forging "What is there not to like, you get to break all the rules you were told as a kid, don't play with that it is sharp, don't play with fire, and don't beat on that" Wade Holloway See some of my work. |
#14
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__________________ Austin Colvin |
#15
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I see why no one else asked....
__________________ A good friend told me one time about forging "What is there not to like, you get to break all the rules you were told as a kid, don't play with that it is sharp, don't play with fire, and don't beat on that" Wade Holloway See some of my work. |
Tags |
1084, 1095, 550, art, bee, blade, blades, edge, etch, etching, forge, hamon, harden, knife, make, making, polish, problem, sand, scratch, steel |
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