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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Thong Tube Hole
Well, I've fouled up my first thong hole tube, so I'm looking for help. Drilling to 1/4" was too small so I drilled next size bigger and it was too big. So, I guess I need letter size drills? What size is correct, anyway?
Second, now that this hole is too big, is there a way to flare out this tube to match? I've attached the scales and used the drill big to assure proper alignment. And yes I did remove the drill bit when all was clamped up. Thanks, Richard |
#2
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Richard,
It sounds like you have thr right sized tubing. I'm not aware of too many variations in size on that kinda thing other than to go to, say 1/8" or so, but that's too drastic. One thing I do not only on tubes but my pins as well, is to bevel the edges so that it goes through the hole easier. But probably the biggest improvement in my fit and finish has come with the use of reamers for my holes. I just wasn't getting consistant results with drill bits (1/4" was NOT 1/4"! ) That sounds like maybe what you are experiencing. You'd be surprised how much matieral a reamer will take out. And it's precise at that point! (well, within reason) As for the hole you have right now, instead of trying to flare a tube, why not countersink the handle material and leave it as that. Not all lanyard holes require a tube. You may like the way it looks. Chris |
#3
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Richard, For all my 1/4" holes I use a 17/64 Bit. Keeps the Tube or Pins nice and snug yet slides through nice and easy with a little epoxy on it.
Hope that helps. Shane |
#4
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If you're using 1/4"OD tubing, try an "F" size bit. It's just a couple of thousandths over 1/4". Works well for me.
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#5
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Thanks for the quick responses. Do you guys ever sleep?
I thought about leaving it bare but I think the handle needs a little detail there for visual balance. I'll try the F size bit next time for sure. For now I'll get the handle shaped closer to finish size before committing to the hole/tubing. Right now I'm thinking about a ball bearing as a tool to flare the tube. We'll see. Thanks again, Richard |
#6
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Howsabout pounding a nailset into the tube CAREFULLY to slightly flare out the tube.
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#7
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It's hard to tell from the description just how far off the tube was from going in the first hole you drilled. Not only are drill bits not exact, but tubing is not exact either. Sometimes you have to sand down the tubing a bit. You can also ream the hole slightly larger. If you countersink the hole slightly, you can flare the ends (like markd pointed out) and it will make a good tight fit.
Another problem with tubing is that you can have burrs on the edge. (Note Chris Daigle's remark on beveling the ends.) I have a small reamer that I use for reloading ammo that lets me trim off any burrs inside and outside. And, no, we don't sleep. __________________ God bless Texas! Now let's secede!! |
#8
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Thanks for all the help. I did remove the burrs from the tube initially but didn't want to force it and wreck the scales. I used a 17/64" drill, which was way too big. I did get a few ball bearings and gave an test run on a small piece and was able to enlarge it .020 with just a couple whacks with a hammer. I'll try this approach or one similar on the real piece soon. Yeh, the nail set is also a good idea that I didn't think of.
Thanks again, Richard |
#9
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I've done this myself as well.
If you are using the thin walled brass tubing for the hole lining, you can actually go to an enginerring supply / hobby supply shop and get brass tubing that comes in an amazing array of sizes. You might be able to get one that is JUST slightly greater than 1/4, and it might fit. This is my own approach. I find it rather difficult to set aside so many different oversized / undersized drill bits for this hole and that one. I consider it easier to size the thong hole TUBING to the size of the hole I have made. For starters, I almost always find that the thong hole tubing, as it comes from the supplier, is either a very snug fit, or is oversized comapred to the drill bits I use. I simply cut the tubing material to length, clean up the ends with a file, then lightly chuck the piece up in my drill press chuck (only with finger tightness so you don';t crush it) and spin it at 2500rpm and use a file and 120grit sandpaper to turn the tubing down to the correct dimensions. I also use this method to sand all my pins and thong tubing material to rough them up prior to glueing, even if they are the right size. It is very easy and consistent. I would suggest AGAINST trying to flare the tubing unless you have the correct tooling. It is easy to get the pressure wrong and split your tubing or handle material when flaring the tube ends. There are many ways to skin a cat. This is my own personal way. Pardon the rambling. Jason. __________________ JASON CUTTER BLADEART Jason Cutter @ Dr Kwong Yeang Knifemaker, Australia (Matthew 10.16) |
#10
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To Jason and all who replied, thanks for the help and ideas. As I mentioned in my previous reply, I tried flaring the tubing by pounding a ball bearing into the tube, and that is what I went for yesterday. I cut the tubing a little long, flared one side first, applied epoxy and inserted it into the handle, and used the ball bearing on the other side, supporting the whole thing on an anvil. After initially getting it flared, I also put a ball bearing in the rested end so it would flare evenly. Boy, it worked great. There's a nice flare on the inside of the tube that will always be there and it was tight mechanically. I hope to file and sand it to finished size latter today. By the way, it was a 7/32" bearing.
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