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  #1  
Old 11-28-2004, 01:02 PM
bill-murray bill-murray is offline
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Newb Knife Builder Seeking help

Okay, I'm going to make 1 kitchen knife, 4 steak knives, and 1 paring knife. I got the wood, and am just about to order my blades from www.texasknife.com

I know which blades I want and all that, but I don't know how to hold the blade to the handle. I see pins, rivets, rods, I just want some clarification of which to use. Thanks
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  #2  
Old 11-28-2004, 01:10 PM
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Shakudo Shakudo is offline
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click on workshop(tutorials) at the top of the page.if that doesn't answer your questions,try the blue search button.there have been quite a few threads on pinning,rivets,epoxy,etc.
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  #3  
Old 11-28-2004, 02:42 PM
bill-murray bill-murray is offline
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n

Okay, heres an easier way. Just tell me what I need to finish this

"9? overall length, 4-3/4? blade, 5/8? wide and 1/16? thick, satin finished and 2-1/2? of serrations at the tip. Handle holes are for 1/8? pins with larger center hole and end slot for easy assembly and is 7/8? wide and 4-1/4? long. A great stainless steel steak knife blade. Buy a dozen and save."

. I just need to order my stuff right away so I can work on it. While it's in the mail I'll figure out how to put it together. I've got all the wood, just need the pins and crap. Thanks.
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  #4  
Old 11-28-2004, 03:08 PM
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TexasJack TexasJack is offline
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Your question is pretty open-ended, because there are lots of different ways to do the job. (That's why you see so many different pieces for sale.)

The simplest way to make this type of knife is to glue the wood onto the knife blanks, using pins for alignment and some cross-sectional strength. For glue, use epoxy - the longest setting time stuff you can find.

But you really should look at the tutorials - there's a lot of info there that can help keep you out of trouble.

There are things you need to do to prepare the wood before glue-up. There are also a couple of ways to drill the holes for the pins and make them come out right. The time you spend on those tutorials will be worth it.


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  #5  
Old 11-28-2004, 03:15 PM
stoneman stoneman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill-murray
Okay, heres an easier way. Just tell me what I need to finish this...

. I just need to order my stuff right away so I can work on it. While it's in the mail I'll figure out how to put it together. I've got all the wood, just need the pins and crap. Thanks.
Go with Pinstock to match the hole size, same as the bolster if it has bolsters, or whatever you prefer if it doesn't. Since you are a newbie, just for future advice, if your post has attitude in it, it will probably be ignored. There is a great group of people on this forum, who I have found to go out of their way to be helpful. You will catch more flies with honey.


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  #6  
Old 11-28-2004, 04:15 PM
bill-murray bill-murray is offline
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I don't think I had attitude???? I didn't want to come off that way, I am appreciative of your guy's help...
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  #7  
Old 11-28-2004, 04:24 PM
bill-murray bill-murray is offline
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I have metal and woodworking experience, so I don't think I'll have a problem drilling and stuff. I just don't know what some of this stuff is and does. I've been looking through the tutorials. I have no idea what a bolster is either.....

Here is the steak knife I want to do.


http://www.pixpond.com/xx/knife.bmp

Can somebody walk me through what I'll need for the steak knife. It's not a big deal, I don't need a huge explanation. Just a "You'll need 3 pins, etc.." Thanks in advance, and again I don't wanna come off as rude or anything. Just tryin to hurry up and get my parts in the mail.
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  #8  
Old 11-28-2004, 05:03 PM
stoneman stoneman is offline
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My apologies. Bolsters are usually metal (can be other materials)that go between the blade area and the handle area.
For this project, this is what I would do, and it is just a suggestion.
1.)Order 1/8" diameter rod (pinstock) of your prefered material (brass, nickel silver, stainless steel)
2.)When it arrives, double check that it matches the size of the drill bit (compare bottom of the bit with rod, use calipers if you have them) wrap blade are with electricians tape (protective coating safety first)
3.)Clamp one side of your handle scale to the handle of the knife, drill through the front small hole into the handle material. place a 1" cut off end of pin through both (temporary hold to help maintain alignment)
4.) drill far side through sloted end. (again place 1" cut off end of pin in for alignment)
5.) drill out center hole.
6.) trace out side of steel handle onto handle material
7.) clamp other handle scale on and drill through holes (remove pin before, and replace pin after)
8.) now you should have 2 handle sides that match, remove 2 sides from the handle and re pin the 2 sides together to each other. know you can cut, grind, sand the front of the handles where they meet the blade first (this matches them up, and allows you to finish this part without the blade interfering)
9.) now take the three pins that you cut before and file or cut a small notch around the center of each, this gives the epoxy a place to grab the pin.
10.) Mix up your epoxy, most prefer 24 hour 2 ton epoxy, and coat one handle scale and pins, and slide pins through the holes.
11.)Coat the inside of the other handle with epoxy and the exposed pins, and push onto pins.
12.) clamp the works together and leave it.
13.) when the epoxy starts to feel gummy, you can scrape any excess that squeezed out onto the blade off (I use brass that I have ground an edge onto, because it will not scratch the blade)
14.) file or rasp handles to shape, until they hit the steel.
15.) sand

Hope this answers your questions.
Good Luck


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  #9  
Old 11-28-2004, 05:06 PM
Hot&CoaledForge Hot&CoaledForge is offline
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According to the item description on the TKS site, "Handle holes are for 1/8? pins". - Jim

edit - Dean posted while I was typing & already mentioned the 1/8" pins.

Last edited by Hot&CoaledForge; 11-28-2004 at 05:09 PM.
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  #10  
Old 11-28-2004, 05:20 PM
bill-murray bill-murray is offline
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Oh, okay. I'm not going to be doing a bolster on any of these. So rods are all I need?? What do pins do?? Do you usually mix your epoxy with the sawdust, or just do it plain?? Thanks for helping, that clarified alot. I just got kind of mixed up with all the different parts and stuff. All of mine are going to be fixed blades. I'll order up the parts tomorrow, after I'm sure I got everything I need to finish. BTW I'm using flamed maple, walnut, and cherry...
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  #11  
Old 11-28-2004, 05:52 PM
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hammerdownnow hammerdownnow is offline
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Ya might wanna try "cutler rivets" for kitchen knives. TKS should have them. Pins help by adding shear strength. I read one guy had some slabs just epoxied on. He dropped the knife and it hit butt first. Both slabs popped right off. I just had a thought. some people use hidden epoxy pins by drilling half way thu the slab on the inside. It might be strong enough if you drilled all the way thru and countersunk. Then filled with colored epoxy. Black or red might make a good looking pin. The old EK combat fighers use to have poured lead pins.Welcome and good luck.


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  #12  
Old 11-28-2004, 06:11 PM
bill-murray bill-murray is offline
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That's a good idea. I think I might just try that.

Couldn't find the cutler rivets though. So, if I'm doing a kitch knife, it might not be a bad idea to use the those hidden bolt fasteners. Just because those knives are so big??

Last edited by bill-murray; 11-28-2004 at 06:14 PM.
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  #13  
Old 11-29-2004, 03:43 PM
bill-murray bill-murray is offline
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Alright, bout to make my order. Anything else I should consider?? So far, I'm gonna get tru oil, the blades, and 1/8" rod. Thanks, and wish me luck.
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  #14  
Old 11-29-2004, 04:41 PM
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I got into knife making from the kitchen. I would recommend the cutlery rivets or the hidden bolts. Pins are great but on a kitchen knife extra pressure holding the handles to the tang help prevent food getting between the two. A very hard place to clean out. As for how to do it, if when you contact TKS ask for a catalog. It has the instructions on how to use each type of rivet.

Here are the two stock #'s of the cutlery rivets.

R800R Brass
R900R N/S

I prefer hidden bolts over these because one I can get stainless, two they're a stronger hold and three they allow more tolerance when setting them. If you set the cutlery rivets too deep they don't look good, too shallow and you'll grind off the head.

You might also consider a step drill bit matching your fastener type. A bit pricey but it saves huge amounts of headaches counter sinking the holes.

Jim
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  #15  
Old 11-30-2004, 03:41 PM
bill-murray bill-murray is offline
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Cool, but what is a tang?? I think I'll just go for the hidden bolts, since those seem easier to do. Thanks, I have to order today.....
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