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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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wood finish ?
I remember reading a thread way back about a linseed oil finish for wood handles. Could someone who is using this method please give me very detailed instructions on how to do this. If there is a better way than linseed those instructions would be great as well.
Thanks Steve |
#2
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Steve,
All I do is use a clean cloth,small amounts of linseed oil and many thin coats,allowing it to dry between coats and removing any excess by buffing (with rag) before it dries completely. |
#3
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you can thin the linseed with a bit of turpentine for the first few coatings ,
casey |
#4
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Steve,
Your question about is there a better finish would require a book to answer completely but to put it simply the finish on wood is to do two things: keep the moisture out of the wood & make it look better. There are two basic types of finishes: soft & hard. The soft finishes are oils & waxes where the hard ones are varnish, shellac, lacquer, etc. Soft finishes like linseed oil are more moisture permiable and are designed to absorb into the wood fiber replacing moisture rather than blocking it out like the hard finishes. For that reason they are less permanent and work better on stable woods (woods that are resistant to swelling & shrinking) and the hard finishes work better on unstable woods. Ex: oil finish would work well on ironwood or cocobolo but not as well on maple burls. Hope this helps. Gary |
#5
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more questions
Is there a specific type of linseed oil I should be looking for and if so where would I find it? Also how long do you let it dry between coats and how many coats does it normally take? Would linseed oil work on zebrawood or olivewood?
Thanks again for all the help. Steve |
#6
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Steve,
You want boiled linseed oil and you can get it at most lumber yards. I haven't worked with those woods so I'm not familiar with them. Gary |
#7
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Use Watco Teak Finish for all woods. Heat the wood and apply, usually three coats, and steel wool in between coats.
Ken (wwjd) __________________ Ken (wwjd) http://www.wacoknives.com "One Nation Under God" |
#8
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The Watco Teak finish is good, I just discovered it for some cocobolo I used and it worked great.
For most other woods I prefer Watco Neutral Danish oil. I apply a coat as per directions and wait 24 hours, work it down a little with ultra fine steel wool and apply another coat. I like to repeat this for 3 or 4 coats. A good carnauba wax coat seems top things off pretty well. __________________ Guy Thomas/Thomas Knives |
#9
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...or I have been using Minwax Wood Hardener as of late. I cut the top portion off a small Armoral bottle. I place the knife handle down in the bottle and fill the bottle until it complete covers the wood. I let it soak a couple hours, take it out, wipe it off and let it dry overnight. I then "lightly" buff the handle with pink scratchless. Not a bad down and dirty finish.
Craig __________________ "When I first started, I didn't know anyone that made knives. Now, all my friends are knifemakers." |
#10
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Watco
I am not familar with Watco. Where do you get it and how does it work on maple?
Dan www.theknifemaker.com |
#11
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Wood Finishes
Hi folks,
Generally speaking, the harder and more dense woods, respond to finishes that soak in, but of course it takes longer for the oil or spirit to penetrate. The build up takes time. Wax finishes, on hard and dense timbers, polish to a high finish easily, but lie on the surface, rather than penetrating. Open grain timbers therefore usually take oil and wax finishes better, but it takes more applications to get a high polish. The hardest wearing wax is is probably carnauba wax, but it will be expensive, and is usually added to other waxes, such as beeswax, with genuine turps, to make it more forgiving and workable. Used as an additive, carnauba also penetrates the grain more easily, where it does most good. Hope this helps all. 8o __________________ Don't find a hobby you can live with; find a passion you can't live without. |
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