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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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wood finish?
i was wondering how to finish wood handles. ive got a full tang hunter almost complete just needs the coacobolo handle finished and then sharpen it. i want the handle to shine, any sugestions?
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#2
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Never used cocobolo before Terence, but I hear it's like purple heart or gaboon ebony, hard as stone and full of resin. These I have used. Most applied finishes don't want to stick to them. If that's so then it's down to finer and finer sandpaper till the pores close at about 1000 grit. Then buffing with a cotton buffer wheel for gloss. Then a coat of tung or similar wood oil for shine.
I think some of the guys are using a super glue finish on some of these exotic woods too. Do a search and you'll probably find a good tutorial somewhere. Good luck and hope that helps. chiger, |
#3
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Cocobolo is in the rosewood family of woods and I would tend to go with a sanding to about 1000 grit and buffing, like Chiger said and then leave it alone. I definantly wouldn't use super glue to finish it with, but that's just me.
Doug Lester __________________ If you're not making mistakes then you're not trying hard enough |
#4
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Cocabola is very dense and oily. Makes a really good knife handle. I take it down to 600g and then use pink "no scratch" rouge on a buffing wheel. This brings the shine right out and all it needs from there is a good coat of wax. Take care to wear a good respirater when sanding because cocabola can cause serious reactions in some people.
Rick |
#5
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If you do a search on CA/super glue finishes you find some good threads on it.
I've never been good at it but I've seen some great finishes done that way. I use carnuba wax to finish my handle that aren't stabilized. It gives a diamond hard shine that ast a long time. Jim __________________ I cook with a flair for the dramatic, and depraved indifference to calories |
#6
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I have not used on Scales yet, but have run some tests from feedback received from this forum. I really like the look of the process below which gives a high satin to gloss result.
1) Sand to 1500g 2) Sand in Watco Danish Oil and let stand 5 minutes then wip off excess with cloth. Let dry overnight. You are creating a paste of Danish Oil and wood dust here to fill the pores and smooth out to reduce the amount of oils this wood will procduce in the very near future. 3) Repeat the above step 3 times. No need to sand in on these applications though. 4) After final application of Danish Oil let dry for a week - do not rush this prcoess as I know it is hard. Your end result will appreciate it...... 5) Apply an even coat of Paste Wax and let set / dry for 24 hours. 6) Hit lightly with a buffing wheel with Pink "no scratch" rouge. Practice on some sample pieces as that is what I always do. Easier than messing up a good pair of scales that has hours of hard work already in them. Just my 2 cents! |
#7
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thanks guys i appreciate the input, you have probly saved me hours of frustration
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#8
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I did this one recently and it was my first use of cocobolo. I treated it exactly like I do any stabilized wood--shape with 60 and 120, hand sand with 220 and 500, buff with white and then pink.
I waxed with Rennaisance Wax prior to shooting this photo. After the photo, I did a few more coats of Ren Wax as I handled the knife for about a week, before shipping. Three or four coats of Ren Wax made it look like glass. I wish I had a picture of that. Don't make it hard. It's too easy to get a great finish with this stuff to invest much time in 'special' finishes. __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#9
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where would i find carnuba wax? none of the places around home carry it.
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#10
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In a pinch, you can use car wax that contains carnuba.
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#11
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what about antique furniture wax it contains carnuba and beeswax, i was unsure about the beeswax because its a softer wax?
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#12
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Hey Andy,
I know I;m probley of subject, but that knife Rocks!!! I seen pictures of it before in The Display Case but every time I see it I just can't get over how much I like it. Excellent design.. I'm with Andy by the way renisance wax would do great.. Thanx Shane |
#13
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Thanks Shane.
Ren wax is a microcrystaline wax that drys hard instantly. This is the quality in carnuba that we like, but even faster. It goes on in thinner layers too, so you don't get build up in crevices and the like. Shoe polish is great for sheaths, but not handles--It leaves fingerprints. Bee wax..., same story. Ren wax prevents finger prints for a long time. Carnuba does too. Delbert Ealy sent me a KITH knife in his fantastic damascus once. He had etched it to a very dark contrast and then waxed it with Turtle Wax. It held the carbon on the blade and made a great fingerprind 'shield'. I would think it would be almost as good as Ren wax. __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#14
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Ren Wax is a safer way to get pretty much the same finish. It is not as hard as pure carnauba wax but it is even better looking than carnauba. Also you have to use a buffer and a dedicated wheel to use pure carnauba. I had a lot of training and experience using a buffer in jewelry and even I'm a little nervous sometimes buffing a knife. Than there is a lot of hands rubbing to even out the wax after you use the buffer. I would go for the Ren Wax if I didn't have a pound or so of carnauba in the shop.
If you want to continue you can check wood turning stores. Jim __________________ I cook with a flair for the dramatic, and depraved indifference to calories |
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