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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making.

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  #1  
Old 02-22-2007, 02:58 PM
Dave Kelly Dave Kelly is offline
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Sheath Making In Progress Photos (Photo HEAVY)

A couple of fellow new makers expressed interest in seeing some in progress photos of my last sheath, my 11th sheath made. I'm learning just like you are so please keep in mind some of these techniques aren't necessarily the best way of doing things. The retainer strap and integral belt loop is my interpretation of Paul Long's construction technique so I'm not sure if he does it the same exact way. I'm not able to sit or stand in one position very long so my initial pattern and leather cuts aren't as clean and precise as I would like them to be so try to remember to do as I suggest not as I do and cut as accurately as possible!! this will prevent aggravation later on.

First photos show the paper patterns for all the leather pieces that make up this sheath, a couple of small items changed a little, I moved the retainer strap cut out down to just below the top of the guard and I slightly changed the shape of the belt loop. I always seem to make comments on my pattern pieces to remind me of things.
Pieces from left to right in 1st photo: top button panel, window frame, guard welt, blade welt
2nd photo: sheath back piece with folded integral belt loop, retainer strap
3rd photo: unfolded belt loop also showing retainer strap cut out

















Next shows the inside (welts and strap) and back (with the integral belt loop) leather parts cut out.
Pieces from left to right in the photo: guard welt, blade welt, sheath back with integral belt loop, retainer strap.








This shows how the welts are installed





One showing the above photo with the top piece





For some reason I didn't take a photo of all the separate front leather parts cut out but this is most of them except I already glued on the top (button) piece. (The top piece looks dark because it's still a little wet from some work I was doing on it.)
Pieces from left to right in the photo: the base that I'll use to glue on my basket weave overlay, the basket weave inlay, the window frame overlay with the top button panel installed.





Next two photos show how the above pieces go (contact cemented) together








This photo shows the back of the basket weave piece, I use the cut out from the window frame overlay piece (trim off about 1/8th" from the perimeter to make it smaller then round the edges) as a wet form then I glue it in place to give the formed basket weave strength.


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  #2  
Old 02-22-2007, 03:04 PM
Dave Kelly Dave Kelly is offline
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This is the basket stamped, wet formed, dyed, top coated, skived to feather edge finished inlay.





At this point my front piece is pretty much finished, the back is tooled, retainer strap installed and ready for glue up.





This shows the back side of the above photo.



Next two photos show the side view of how the front pieces and the skived back (belt loop) go together








The finished sheath





Obviously there's a lot left out but this just basically shows how I make this type of sheath, any comments, questions or advice, please don't hesitate!!

Thanks,
Dave
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  #3  
Old 02-22-2007, 03:36 PM
Hot&CoaledForge Hot&CoaledForge is offline
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Thanks much, Dave. Always fun & educational to see one from start to finish. - Jim
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  #4  
Old 02-22-2007, 06:00 PM
EdgarFigaro EdgarFigaro is offline
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what weight and kind of leather are you using there. Color looks different from mine. Perhaps because of how it's tanned? I use veg tanned. Already dyed maybe?

Do you use any special method for punching your holes for lacing with it being so thick?
How is the treatment on the edges done?
I've read some various things on it, but not yet bought anything to give it a try.


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Last edited by EdgarFigaro; 02-22-2007 at 06:02 PM.
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  #5  
Old 02-22-2007, 06:22 PM
Dave Kelly Dave Kelly is offline
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Edgar,

I use Wickett & Craig 8/9 oz. Veg. tan "Chestnut" dyed leather

On folded pouch type sheaths I punch with hammer and awl, on this type I use a drill press with a #53 (about 1/16") bit, important to have each hole that you're drilling firmly backed so the drill bit makes a clean exit hole.

I have a horizontal belt sander that I use for knife making, I'll pretty much bring the edges to a full polish with this machine before I hand sand clean up. The treatment that I used on this one is dye, saddle soap light buffing, finished with a neatsfoot oil/beeswax mixture buff.

Dave
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  #6  
Old 02-22-2007, 06:35 PM
Mike T. Mike T. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Kelly
On folded pouch type sheaths I punch with hammer and awl, on this type I use a drill press with a #53 (about 1/16") bit,
Why wouldn't you drill pouch sheaths Dave?


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  #7  
Old 02-22-2007, 07:04 PM
Dave Kelly Dave Kelly is offline
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You're welcome Jim!



Quote:
Why wouldn't you drill pouch sheaths Dave?
Mike, To be honest I've never tried drilling a pouch sheath, the first 3 sheaths I made were pouch type and thought punching was the only way to make holes I can't remember where or when I heard about being able to drill but I haven't made another pouch type since then. I have to figure out how to back the odd shape, maybe make a jig or something.

Dave
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  #8  
Old 02-22-2007, 07:09 PM
Sandy Morrissey Sandy Morrissey is offline
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It would be difficult to improve on this tutorial. The photos are excellent, the descriptive text is concise and the results speak for themselves.


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  #9  
Old 02-22-2007, 07:18 PM
EdgarFigaro EdgarFigaro is offline
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Thanks for the info.
Think the leather I used on my last was 6-7 oz, and it was thicker than what I used the first time. Worked nicely. Got it on sale as I hadn't planned to buy any leather, and I'm glad I bought it.

I've used a awl and hammer as well as a drill press on the pouch type. My last one turned out pretty good, I just made sure my design was pretty symmetrical, and then used a marking guide, and drilled them out using a nail in the press. Might try a actual bit next time.
Drilled the whole piece, then folded and laced. Probably would work out a little better to drill it prefolded though.


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Old 02-22-2007, 07:24 PM
T-Wolf T-Wolf is offline
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Yep...this'un oughta be a sticky.Thanks Dave.


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  #11  
Old 02-22-2007, 09:25 PM
Mike T. Mike T. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Kelly
Mike, To be honest I've never tried drilling a pouch sheath.......I have to figure out how to back the odd shape, maybe make a jig or something.
Gotcha covered. For pouch type sheaths with belt loops on the back I have a number of small wooden boards with U-shaped cutouts that accept various sized belt loops. Lay the sheath on the board with the loop down into the cut out and lay the board on the ol' drillpress table. This allows the sheath to lay, and stay, flat - verrrry important for consistent hole drilling. Very simple but very effective.


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  #12  
Old 02-23-2007, 12:36 AM
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MtMike MtMike is offline
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Mike --it would be great if you could take some pics of your pouch layout
Dave, super pictorial/tutorial -- the student becomes the master


Mike


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Old 02-23-2007, 12:48 AM
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Brett Holmes Brett Holmes is offline
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great tutorisal dave, i especially like the view of your basketweave before you put the window around it, i have wondered how to hide the edges of the weave and now i know. i will certainly be trying something like this soon.
brett


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  #14  
Old 02-23-2007, 02:08 AM
Dave Kelly Dave Kelly is offline
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Thanks you guys! When I first made this type of sheath I was scratching my head wondering how it went together, I figured there's got to be another new maker scratching out there that may benefit from this.

Thanks Mike T, I'll try drilling next time I make a pouch sheath!

Dave
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  #15  
Old 02-23-2007, 07:27 AM
Mike T. Mike T. is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtMike
Mike --it would be great if you could take some pics of your pouch layout
You mean the boards I use for drilling pouch (with belt loop on back) sheaths? Right here. I stack as many as I need to clear the belt loop thickness and sit them on the large block. I hold the sheath down tight to them throughout the drilling and never let it move.

I'll assume Dave will come up with a refined hi-tech version but these (I replace 'em as they get drilled out) have done me well for a lifetime -





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