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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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compliments and questions
hats off to the webmasters of this site! it is my favorite spot on the web and is well maintained -easy to use- and i just love the way i can move around in here. for example---i went to texas knife maker supply and could not find accraglass. i searched the "back pages" and found ed's comments on page seven under epoxy. i should have written brownell's down back then but didn't. THANK's for keeping the pages. questions-- while at texas knife supply site i saw a grinding wheel with slots--anyone ever use one? i sure have not - what is the deal? cooler metal when grinding? i have put a choil on the fixed blade i'm working on--i agree that cosmetically it looks like a flaw-- but i can also see the purpose and since the blade is thick i chose to add one. how do you determine correctly the depth and width of a choil. i tried using calipers to figure out a % of size by length - then i tried to figure out a % by thickness of the blade. the thickness seemed closer --so to make a short story long i just "eyeballed" it. seems to work on most things anyway. |
#2
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The serrated wheel is for hogging metal. That gives the belt a more aggressive bite for quick metal removal. Used for roughing opperations only. Not recommended for finish work. The finger groove should be less than 1/2 as deep as the blade is tall.Do not go over 50% in depth or you will loose strength and create a week spot there. Asthetics and balance are the governing factors of how deep the knotch is made for the finger groove. Hope it helps. |
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blade, fixed blade, hunting knife, knife |
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