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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making.

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  #61  
Old 01-24-2011, 12:30 PM
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CJS Knives CJS Knives is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cappaletti View Post
Hey Capt. Jeff !
really enjoyed that hot waxing video..very informative! I'm just wondering if paraffin would work in this application..just curious...

Gene
Gene,
thanks but i didnt make this video.... i found it on YouTube, i am sorry i mislead you. this is something that i have wanted to try, and thought i would ask you guys about it. i dont even know what paraffin is!!?? lol
sorry i couldnt help you,
Jeff


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  #62  
Old 01-25-2011, 06:22 AM
cappaletti cappaletti is offline
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Hi Capt. Jeff...(we've met on iknifecollector BTW)...
paraffin is a type of wax..my Mother used to use it to seal canning jars (years ago)..don't even know if u can find it anymore...I'm not sure if it's a natural wax or petroleum based...seems like it would be a natural wax if it was used to seal canned preserves/veggies/etc.

Gene
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  #63  
Old 01-25-2011, 11:15 AM
Sandy Morrissey Sandy Morrissey is offline
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You can still purchase paraffin from almost any grocery store. Most white candles are made of paraffin


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  #64  
Old 06-05-2012, 08:42 PM
Larry Peterson Larry Peterson is offline
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Location: I was born and raised in Spanish Fork, Utah. I now live between Manti and Ephraim, Utah. We built a home here about 10 year ago.
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Friends,

If I may, for years now I have used a mixture melted into a stainless steel instrument sterlizer to water proof my knife acabbards. I melt bee's wax and pure needsfoot oil and melt it in the sterlizer on my wife's kitchen stove, when she is not home! You can push your thumb down into it when it is room temprature but is melts into a liquid when heated. Don't get it too hot or it will make brown burn like marks on the leather. Also, do not soak the leather when it is wet or even damp!!! It will schrivel up like a prune!!

It is hot after soaking for a few minutes so use an instrument to lift it up ane let it drain back ingo the pan for just a bit. Wipe it down with a paper towel and slide the knife into the scabbard. When it cools off you will have a form fit and the leather is water proofed.. I brush the leather with a large boot brush, available at Panhandle Leather in Admirilla, Tx. and later use a bit of shoe polish to give it a high shine.

Do not, under any circumstance,use petrolium products instead of pure neadsfoot oil. I recently had a knife come back after 30 years, for sharpening. The leather knife case is still perfectly intact. The stitching is still perfect and it shined up just like new.

Chuck, are you a boot maker?

Best wishes, Larry Peterson
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  #65  
Old 06-05-2012, 09:32 PM
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Chuck Burrows Chuck Burrows is offline
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Chuck, are you a boot maker?

Best wishes, Larry Peterson
nope - I made a couple pairs of boots and some early style shoes many moons ago and use some of the shoe makers methods but not really a boot/shoe maker. For shoe/boot making info I recommend the Crispin Colloquy site
http://www.thehcc.org/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi

I have made a LOT of moccasins though......


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The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses.

Last edited by Chuck Burrows; 06-05-2012 at 09:35 PM.
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  #66  
Old 02-22-2016, 08:03 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Location: Now live in Las Cruces NM.
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Here comes some screwy stuff.

I'll say what I use to finish and waterproof my leather and then y'all who know what you're talking about can critique. I use a .062 drill bit in a dremel around 10,000 rpm to make the holes for my thread no matter what the size of thread. If you are quick you won't burn it, but if it is no big deal, it doesn't stretch as easily. I use the little wheel thing that makes indentations so my holes are even. Then I stitch one of the two stitches that I am familiar with and like. Nothing fancy, I'm selling a knife not a fancy beyond need sheath. I do tooling and the fancy comes in there and I have an artist who helps me sometimes. She can paint pictures that look like photos, she's good and I wish she would take up scrimshaw.

As for the finish I will use, sparingly, dyes from Tandy, but that's her dept. Just as long as the dyes are oil fast and won't smear when I dip the sheath into melted paraffin wax and 10% linseed oil. Bees wax imparts a subtle color, but I will use that too if she says OK. I let them drip out then wipe and dry. Sheaths are hard and slick and absolutely moisture proof to my way of thinking. My sheaths for all carbon steel knives are all treated that way.

If it is stainless, I spray the inside of the sheath with Rem Oil a teflon lubricant. Not too much, but enough to make a barrier. The oil dries in a while and leaves the teflon behind. The outside I do like the other sheaths, but wipe the hot wax on. Sometimes I use shoe wax of different colors to stain it either way. If I use the dark brown shoe wax before the hot dip it becomes lighter and antiquey looking.

I know screwy, but my knives never rust in those sheaths if they are wiped down before being put back in. Nothing is going to save a knife if it is covered with crud and then shoved into the sheath and the crud sticks.
How come all these threads are so old?

Last edited by jimmontg; 02-22-2016 at 09:09 PM.
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  #67  
Old 07-21-2016, 06:30 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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I make most knives out of stainless and finish the inside of every sheath with melted beeswax. People say it gets on the mirror polish (if I do one, not often) but I just tell them to wipe it off doggone it.
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back, bee, blade, cancer, handle, home, hot, image, knife, knives, leather, made, make, polish, scrimshaw, sharpening, sheath, sheaths, stainless steel, steel, wax


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