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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 04-24-2012, 06:10 PM
Jacktheknife Jacktheknife is offline
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How much to remove before heat treat?

Gentlemen,


'How much'... could a 3/32" blade be ground down from middle to edge and from middle towards the point without making it more difficult to harden because of a differential in thickness?
I remember old bladesmith Dan who worked on swords would just grind 'a little'.
No where near finished thickness but just get the bevel started where you could see it and finish the blade after hardened and tempered with sandpaper on a sanding block. He made the whole sword with sandpaper start to finish because it made less problems to have to fix, less deep scratches.

Since the steel is only 3/32" should I harden and temper the blade as it is, just profiled an drilled, finishing it after heat treating? It would be the same thickness at heat treating and would harden and temper better, if more work to finish.
Would it be a better knife?


Thank you...


Jack the Knife
Sandymay never came back and it has been 9 days. The Vet said yes, dogs have heart attacks and it sounded like she was running all night with Dukedog who was 1/6th her age and her heart just gave out. She may have died out in the woods doing what she was supposed to do. Hot on the trail of a wily old coon with her leading the pack and calling the tune. Sandy died game and not in bed or at the Vets and she would want me to remember her like that. She died game, fighting and she taught Dukedog everything she knew. I took a whole roll of pictures of her and Duke treeing and killing a coon just before she disappeared and wrote a story about another of her last hunts.
'Beautiful Hound Music'. And it was, the most beautiful hound music I ever heard.
I loved Sandymay, she was my friend.

Jack the Knife...
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:05 PM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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From what you are asking, I take it that you are concerned about warping during hardening and tempering. Personally, I think that warping is a bit over rated as a problem. I've had to re-heat treat blades that had been taken down to a course edge and failed the wire cutting test without any warping. These were blades that were 1/8-3/16" at the spine. The trick, I guess, is to make sure that you don't get the blade too hot. A technique called marqueching or martempering might also be useful because it allows the thin and thick parts of the steel to equalize in temperature before falling below the Ms point.

Granted, the consensus of opinion is not to take the edge down below the thickness of a dime before heat treating and there are some who do just profile a blade as thin as your steel before heat treating and grind in the bevels after hardening and tempering. You're probably going to see what works for you.

Doug


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Old 04-24-2012, 07:45 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I'm one of those that waits until the HT is complete before I do any bevel grinding, especially on blades as thin as your 3/32". Warping usually isn't much of a problem as Doug said and I consider it even less of a problem if you grind after HT since uneven grinding can cause your blade to warp ....


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Old 04-25-2012, 12:35 AM
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AUBE AUBE is offline
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I take mine fairly close to final dimensions. As Doug said, right about the thickness of a dime. As long as I grind everything symmetrical, and normalize prior to ht I don't get much in the way of warpage.
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