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  #16  
Old 04-09-2004, 04:04 PM
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Sweany Sweany is offline
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Sounds like the the time I told a buddy I rubbed some hooks down with linseed oil and popped em in my toaster oven.

Well he tried it in his house about 2:00 in the morning. His wife woke up gagging and madder two wet hens. HEHEHEHAHHAHAHA

I thought I never would stop laughing.


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  #17  
Old 04-10-2004, 07:22 PM
dazzeddd dazzeddd is offline
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Do you think you will be able to get this forge up to weld temp.
If you can let us know. IT looks great and I think im going to build me one now.
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  #18  
Old 04-10-2004, 09:43 PM
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McAhron McAhron is offline
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do you have your blanket coated with anything?the fibers from ceramic blankets atack your lungs just like asbestos,the force and heat of the burner eats away at the blanket and end up in your lungs,i worked in respitory therapy for some time and nothing is worse than not being able to breath.
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  #19  
Old 04-10-2004, 11:52 PM
AKmik AKmik is offline
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McAhron,
Thanks for the heads up. I was kind of worried about that, while cutting/handling the fiberfrax blanket I wore my respirator and have been while operating the forge for heat treating so far. What coating would you suggest ? I understand it will increase the life of the refractory as well, so it could only be good for business. I am going to research the coatings a bit and place an order this week.

dazzeddd,
I am not sure about welding temp..I have only used it to heat treat 0-1 so far. But I will be giving it a try soon. I have a stack of old 1/2" band saw blade , I need to read up on the process a bit first tho. I also am thinking I'll need to line the floor of the forge with firebrick to protect the fiberfrax blanket from the flux , right? I know the page that I got my forge design from the guy said propane wasn't hot enough to forge with so he uses mapp gas and it works for him. I also closed the front of the forge up quite a bit compared to him and I think that will make a big difference. The opening in the front of mine is shaped like a D 3" across the bottom and 2" high.

How much past non magnetic would 0-1 need to be to forge? I am new to the forging processes, I have only done stock removal so far and this is the begining for me. I am reading all I can get my mits on right now and look foreward to forging some blades soon.

see ya
Mike
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  #20  
Old 04-11-2004, 12:10 AM
Darren Ellis Darren Ellis is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by AKmik
What coating would you suggest ? I understand it will increase the life of the refractory as well, so it could only be good for business.
Satanite refractory mortar or ITC-100HT, or both.



-Darren


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  #21  
Old 04-11-2004, 08:01 AM
dazzeddd dazzeddd is offline
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Im also new at this I made one forge but its at my job and for the burner I use a cutting torch IN the side much like yours. I was able to weld a piee of cable with it. I did have alot of help with that from the people on paltalk. heres a link with some temps.
http://ckdforums.com/showthread.php?...ighlight=forge
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  #22  
Old 04-11-2004, 11:52 AM
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McAhron McAhron is offline
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just so you know AkMick Mr.Ellis happens to sell satinite at very good prices
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  #23  
Old 04-17-2004, 01:48 PM
miller14 miller14 is offline
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Hey,

I really like the forge. I have a homemade forge at home, but I
use propane and forced air. I want to build a forge like yours.
Here is my situation, and what I have.
I am in Kuwait at Camp Doha and this is my plan please give
any recomendations you see fit.
I plan to use two coffe cans, one with the bottom. My buddy
at home will send some Kao-wool. I will butt the cans
togetherand secure. I will obviously wrap the inside with
wool. I have an Oxy-Acetalene set up and plan on using
the torch in a hole like the one pictured. I was planning to make
the hole in the top at the back even with the wool so like
you said it will swirl forward.
1. Do you think the torch will provide enough heat for the
length of two cans?

2. I think the thickness of the can is not really an issue as long
as I support the torch body seperately. check/hold?

3. I think acetalene burns @6x hotter than propane. I think
it will work well.

I would really appreciate your input before I start. Thanks
alot.

Rick
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  #24  
Old 04-17-2004, 02:50 PM
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Chuck Burrows Chuck Burrows is offline
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Rick - you said you've got charcoal available? Then you might want to check out Tai Goo's forgebque - http://www.ckdforums.com/showthread....ighlight=forge

Simple and easy to make.


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  #25  
Old 04-17-2004, 03:54 PM
AKmik AKmik is offline
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Rick,

I think it will work fine. A buddy said they used a weed burner and a coffee can with some sort of refractory to forge on his farm.

An idea,
If you should find yourself around helo support gear look around their supply or maintanance areas for shipping cans that come from sikorski. A damper shipping can would be perfect for a mobil set up.Also the refractory coatings that were reccomended to me are the ticket. I used the satanite and itc100 last night , then heat treated a big skinner today. It definately helps you get the most of the small torch burner set up.

Thanks Darren,worked like a charm.

see ya
Mike
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  #26  
Old 04-17-2004, 07:41 PM
Darren Ellis Darren Ellis is offline
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Thanks Mike, glad it arrived safely!



-Darren


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  #27  
Old 04-17-2004, 07:54 PM
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rhrocker rhrocker is offline
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Hey Darren did my paypal get to you? I know you were having some email problems there for a bit. Looking forward to the goodies I ordered


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  #28  
Old 04-17-2004, 08:05 PM
Darren Ellis Darren Ellis is offline
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Hey Robert, sure did, everything came through fine. Your package is on its way, you should have it sometime next week. I'd love to see a picture of that thing once you get it converted over!



-Darren


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  #29  
Old 04-17-2004, 09:02 PM
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rhrocker rhrocker is offline
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Wow, that's fast prompt service Darren, I appreciate that! Sure, I'll shoot you a picture of the forge, be glad to.


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  #30  
Old 04-18-2004, 07:42 AM
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Bernez Bernez is offline
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How does a type K thermocouple look like???
And where do you place/install it on the mini forge?

Bernez


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Last edited by Bernez; 04-18-2004 at 11:02 AM.
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