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The Outpost This forum is dedicated to all who share a love for, and a desire to make good knives, and have fun doing it. We represent a diverse group of smiths and knifemakers who bring numerous methods to their craft.

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  #1  
Old 02-13-2003, 07:04 PM
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MongoForge MongoForge is offline
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Angry Counter Bending!

Ive yet to master the
technique of counterbending
my blades..

Ive watched Tai do it on the
video a 1,000 times..
And still cant seem to do any justice!

Any tips, tricks, techniques
would be appreciated!

Maybe i need a bigger Schwocker? 8o


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  #2  
Old 02-13-2003, 07:21 PM
Larry Harley Larry Harley is offline
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dumb

i ant never heard of it
smebody tell me what it is
harley
www.lonesomepineknives.com


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  #3  
Old 02-13-2003, 07:21 PM
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Riffiki Riffiki is offline
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counter bend

Tai on video? Now I have video of Tai making a small knife from a file while demonstrating the small "Can" forge at a hammerin in Tucson back in '96 or so. Matter of fact I bought that knife before he ever finished it. But did not know of a newer video where he was making a blade large enough to need to be counter bent. Where can I get a copy?


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  #4  
Old 02-13-2003, 07:33 PM
Larry Harley Larry Harley is offline
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Re: counter bend

But did not know of a newer video where he was making a blade large enough to need to be counter bent. Where can I get a copy? [/B][/QUOTE]

so thats nice ask him a question and ignore me
whats ment by counterbending??
harley
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  #5  
Old 02-13-2003, 07:42 PM
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Bob Warner Bob Warner is offline
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A blacksmith friend of mine used the term counterbent one time when he had a blade that kept warping. It kept warping about a quarter of an inch to the right. He bent it a quarter of an inch to the left, then heat treated it and it came out straight.

That is the only time I ever heard the term.


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  #6  
Old 02-13-2003, 07:59 PM
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prizzim prizzim is offline
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Counter-bending

Larry, Rob, Riffiki, and Bob, I think what's being spoken of here is Tai's method of bending blade stock one way before hammering in bevels, so that the beveling action returns the blade to the final desired shape.

Example... take your blade stock, and hammer a bend so it looks like a bananna drooping downwards when held. Then, as you hammer your bevels in the now-concave side of the curve, your blade straightens out to its normal shape. I believe this is done to reduce the amount of re-shaping once bevels are hammered in.

Just my opinion... there's a thread on this board somewhere with pictures and everything.


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  #7  
Old 02-13-2003, 08:15 PM
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MongoForge MongoForge is offline
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I believe Prizzim understands
what i was refering to..

Counterbending the blade
to hammer in your bevel/ blade edge..
That way you dont end
up with a bananna...

I may be wrong on my terminology!!...


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  #8  
Old 02-13-2003, 08:29 PM
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The way I did the camp knife on the video (Hoods Woods Vol. 9. www.survival.com) is the showy way. You can straighten the blade and adjust the counter bend with a shcwoker. I basically "over" counter bend the blade, then forge the bevels in. When the bevels are getting close I un- counter bend it some and finish the bevels. You can do a little fine tuning with the schwoker too. The reason for over bending is because you can bend the blade into the back after its beveled. Once it's beveled trying to bend it into the edge, causes the edge to warp instead of "upset". Bending towards the back helps pull the edge straight and relieves stress along the edge. If you really want to get accurate at forging to shape, you have to master the counter bending, in order to come out with the shape you want.

Its a good question Mongo, but one of those things that's hard to teach through this medium.

It's the hardest part to master, in my opinion, especially if you are forging to the edge.

Last edited by Misternatural?; 02-13-2003 at 08:31 PM.
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  #9  
Old 02-13-2003, 08:36 PM
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MongoForge MongoForge is offline
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Thanks for the help..
I guess i just
need to practice some more..


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  #10  
Old 02-13-2003, 08:36 PM
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The technique I used for un-counter bending in the video is really for larger blades. For smaller blades just use the shcwocker. If you haven't seen the video, I adjust or un-bend by striking the back over the anvil while holding it with tongs, no hammer or shcwoker for that part.
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  #11  
Old 02-13-2003, 08:43 PM
Misternatural?
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Good luck Mongo. I know it's hard to get the contours to come out as planed with a hammer. One other thing that might help to know is that the thicker the stock the more it needs to be counter bent. The more mass you have to move the more drastic the counter bend needs to be. With distal tapers, it is thinner towards the point and beveling won't bend it back as much. So you need more counter bend where the blade is thickest, and on thicker blades. Forging a distal taper first, will reduce the amount of back bending from beveling at the point.
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  #12  
Old 02-13-2003, 08:58 PM
Larry Harley Larry Harley is offline
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o i c

o i c
i do that that way some times
sometimes not
harley
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  #13  
Old 02-14-2003, 07:52 AM
Misternatural?
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Larry, what other ways do you use?
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  #14  
Old 02-14-2003, 08:07 AM
Larry Harley Larry Harley is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Misternatural?
Larry, what other ways do you use?
sometimes i,ll pre bend it
some times i,ll forge it and just keep it straight as i forge
clips on bowies r mostley pre bent
harley


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  #15  
Old 02-14-2003, 08:15 AM
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So, do you counter bend a little at a time?
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