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The Newbies Arena New to Knife Making? Here's all the help you need ...

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  #1  
Old 01-20-2017, 11:27 PM
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squigly1965 squigly1965 is offline
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O1 & Kirinite Tanto-ish

This is a knife I made for a guy I worked with. Not big on synthetics personally. But I gotta say the Kirinite scales were really easy to work with. This was a stock removal knife. Tempered out to 58-59 rc. The sheath was my first attempt at leatherwork. Got some improvement room there for sure




Last edited by squigly1965; 01-20-2017 at 11:51 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-21-2017, 09:11 AM
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Not bad overall. Sure, room for improvement but we all have room to improve ...


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Old 01-21-2017, 09:19 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is online now
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for a first attempt at leather work its really good....actually no for any attempt at leather work its very good!
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Old 01-21-2017, 09:57 AM
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Appreciate the kind words. Only real problem with the sheath is I didn't put a clasp to hold the knife in. It's stays in fine. But figure after a while the leather will fatigue and it will get loose. The guy didn't care about the sheath, yet it still kinda bothers me.

As for the knife itself. The lack of grind lines I'm not happy with. They were there till I decided I wanted a polished blade. My hand sanding(sandpaper in my hand) pretty much washed them out. Was worried about the blade rusting is the reason for the polished finish. Only having a dremel for polishing wasn't much help. I've since been using a block for sanding and getting much better results
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Old 01-22-2017, 10:52 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is online now
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Red face

Squigly, you can make a loop that fits into the belt loop and put a snap on it. You need two 4 oz (1/16") thick loops of leather. One loop is to keep the snap hardware from coming in contact with the kirinite which is fairly soft and would scratch. The first loop also rivets to the inside of the belt loop and the second loop gets glued to the knife side of the belt loop to cover the rivets and stitched on the ends just before and past the snaps and on the sides of the belt loop.

Make the loops extra long and rivet the first loop to the inside of the Belt loop, then fit the second loop onto the first loop and onto the front of the belt loop to cover the rivets, glue the two loops together just past the front of the belt loop. Stitch the loops to the sides of the belt loop. Now you'll need to fit the snaps onto the outside loop. Punch the hole for the male part of the snap and install the snap to one side and pull the other loop over and mark where it gets tight and punch a hole for the female outside snap through both loops. The inside loop is then glued onto the outside loop with the male snap on it and stitched onto the ends.

Easy Peasy. This would be a lot easier if there was a video showing how. Writing it down makes it sound more complicated than it is.
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Old 01-23-2017, 12:09 AM
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I think I get what you're talking about. I'll have to hit up the hobby store for the leather. Only leather I have is 8-9 oz.

Thank you for taking a look and the advice

Chris
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Old 01-23-2017, 11:50 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is online now
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Chris, it is a beautiful knife and O1 is my favorite non-stainless alloy steel. Try super blue on one. Apply with 0000 steel wool and rub hard. Polish off the first layer with 0000 wool and reapply and repolish. It comes out nice. I did a mirror polish once and blued it and it was so reflective you couldn't tell what color it was outside in the sun and blue sky and trees. Needs a proper heat treat though. Do you use an oven or forge?
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Old 01-24-2017, 08:13 PM
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squigly1965 squigly1965 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmontg View Post
Chris, it is a beautiful knife and O1 is my favorite non-stainless alloy steel. Try super blue on one. Apply with 0000 steel wool and rub hard. Polish off the first layer with 0000 wool and reapply and repolish. It comes out nice. I did a mirror polish once and blued it and it was so reflective you couldn't tell what color it was outside in the sun and blue sky and trees. Needs a proper heat treat though. Do you use an oven or forge?
I'll check that out. It was hardened and tempered in an oven. I built the oven. I did 4 other knives with it. this one and another one were pretty thick blades. I posted one of the others. it was a personal knife. but i was able to bend that one over 45 degrees and it straighten back. I may bend it to see how far it goes before it breaks or takes a bend. anyways all i have for hardens testing is a set of test files the 60 barely scratched it so figuring 58-59rc
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Old 01-24-2017, 09:38 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is online now
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O1 is best HT in an oven so you can get the best from the steel. Kind of hard to hold at 1475 for 10 minutes in a forge.lol

I have HT O1 in a forge, but don't know for certain what my as quenched hardness is and so won't know how long or hot to temper it. Still comes out good, but not as primo as it is capable of.
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Old 01-24-2017, 09:50 PM
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i've also hardened O1 in a forge. the knives all worked. but i wanted them to be right. so i built an oven. and so far i am very pleased with the results. Thinking salts are in my future though. need to do some more research though.
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  #11  
Old 01-25-2017, 02:18 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is online now
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Chris leave the salts alone, that's a dangerous industrial practice that I do not know of any professional knife maker who uses it. I was the heat treater in a machine shop along with being a tig welder and metal fabricator and we did not use the process, we sent the thick parts out. Knives are thin enough where you don't need to fool with molten salt baths. If you want to keep scale from forming on your parts you can rig your oven up to flood with argon cheaper and safer.

There is Brownells anti scale you paint onto O1 and also foils for high temp stainless, but argon is the best method and cheaper in the long run.
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Old 01-25-2017, 02:53 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Actually, there are a number of knife makers that use salt pots, Kevin Cashen comes to mind and I think Ed Caffrey may also have worked with pots. There are some things you can do with salt pots that simply cannot be done any other way.

Nevertheless, Jim is right that most of us don't need salt pots. They are dangerous and they are expensive to maintain. Unless you understand metallurgy like Cashen does there's no point in messing with pots ...


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Old 01-26-2017, 09:34 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is online now
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Reading about6 the process for work I wouldn't have thought a knifemaker would do something like salt baths at home. Thanks for correcting me Ray. I do not know Kevin Cashen, but I didn't know Ed messed with them.
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