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  #16  
Old 01-26-2017, 01:19 PM
Russ W. Russ W. is offline
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Portable hand held about $129 not on sale. They had them on sale for $99 for awhile but I procrastinated and lost.
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  #17  
Old 01-26-2017, 02:50 PM
Russ W. Russ W. is offline
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Yes hand held $129 could have bought on sale for $99 but procrastinated and paid the price.
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  #18  
Old 01-27-2017, 05:28 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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Russ, don't go cheap on the replacement blades - you won't regret the better results and life you get from quality blades.
WNC - talking handhelds here.


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  #19  
Old 01-27-2017, 08:25 AM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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So this is the one?

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-amp-...kit-62800.html

If so, how did you mount it vertically and stable? I can't envision the handle being removed and mounted like the two on the previous page of this thread.



edit to add:
Grizzly has this one which looks like a good option with its own base so it can be used vertically:
Anybody have any experience with this Grizzly?
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Port...th-Stand/G8692


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Last edited by WNC Goater; 01-27-2017 at 08:40 AM.
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  #20  
Old 01-27-2017, 11:24 AM
PoolQs PoolQs is offline
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The handle IS still on my HF porta. Just can't see it from that angle. I drilled three holes on the long
side and two in the bottom to fix the porta to the mount I made. I used "U" shaped bracket irons and
fastened everything with nuts, bolts, and L brackets.

It's not the prettiest thing but it is sturdy and does the job well for my needs. As Crex stated, do NOT go
cheap on your blades. HF porta is not the best brand and is very noisy but with good blades, it does a
decent job for a hobby maker.

If you want more pixs of my unit, I will be glad to take better pixs and show how I did mine.
Troy
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  #21  
Old 01-27-2017, 12:47 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Thanks Troy, that makes sense.


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  #22  
Old 01-28-2017, 04:38 AM
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WNC just let your imagination go a little. Diff models require slightly diff approaches, but haven't seen any that couldn't be adapted to a simple vertical mount. If shopping for one opt for the deep cut model, gives a little more wiggle room on what you can feed through it.
Just be careful when drilling through a handle, several models have their trigger wires pulled up through the hollow in the handle. Don't want to nick those.

On that Griz model stand, the blade will be moving in the wrong direction. With the kind of torque most of these puppies have doing things upside down would be down right scary. Also there is no "table" to support your object to be cut. Looks like it would be a lot of trouble to modify for use as I see it.


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  #23  
Old 01-29-2017, 01:25 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crex View Post
WNC just let your imagination go a little. Diff models require slightly diff approaches, but haven't seen any that couldn't be adapted to a simple vertical mount. If shopping for one opt for the deep cut model, gives a little more wiggle room on what you can feed through it.
Just be careful when drilling through a handle, several models have their trigger wires pulled up through the hollow in the handle. Don't want to nick those.

On that Griz model stand, the blade will be moving in the wrong direction. With the kind of torque most of these puppies have doing things upside down would be down right scary. Also there is no "table" to support your object to be cut. Looks like it would be a lot of trouble to modify for use as I see it.
Darn I didn't notice that. I was about to pull the trigger on the Grizzly but you're right, the blade would be moving in the wrong direction! Thanks for noticing that!

I have an old burned out Delta drill press I've been meaning to get rid of, I may be able to use the upright support and base to mount a portable to in some way and still be able to stow it out of the way when not in use. (My shop started with woodworking and has expanded to knife making and I just don't have any room left for any larger machinery.)

Thanks again Crex, you just saved me a big headache!


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  #24  
Old 01-29-2017, 01:34 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Somebody tell me again how many tpi for 1/8" carbon steels. 14, 18, 24?


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  #25  
Old 01-29-2017, 01:55 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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I use a 14-18 tpi for pretty much everything this one https://www.mscdirect.com/product/de...rItem=02004695
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  #26  
Old 01-29-2017, 07:39 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtec1 View Post
I use a 14-18 tpi for pretty much everything this one https://www.mscdirect.com/product/de...rItem=02004695
How many blades do you get out of a blade before it's dull?

I should probably go ahead and get that HF saw like you have but space is getting seriously limited!

Reread that question. To clarify, how many KNIFE blades do you get out of that SAW blade?


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  #27  
Old 01-30-2017, 06:05 AM
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Last much longer with non-hardened steels - annealed is best, but well normalized can make a pretty big diff.
Already hardened steel will tell you pretty quick it's not going to cut well, so just ease into the blade and if it doesn't bite in back away. Avoid trying to pressure into curved cuts. You can do a wide radius cut but much curve will dull or chip teeth. Never jam into the blade and use a backup "push stick" (I use aluminum angle). These saws are like any others - meat and bone mean nothing to them. Feed slow and steady and resist the urge to push hard...just think back to doing the same thing with a hacksaw and it's easy to back off the pressure and let her work.
Not sure how many "blades" I'd get out of a blade. Usually I'm just ripping strips from larger stock like a circ. saw blade that's been "softened", WI for guards, leafsprings, and resizing stock for students to work with.
More precise cuts and less waste than the side grinder and it won't make holes in your clothes or start fires.
I think once you get one set up and working, you'll do a mental kicknthbutt.


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  #28  
Old 01-30-2017, 07:27 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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WNC....not positive on exactly how many blades normally probilly between 10-12....I can get more but the duller the blade gets the hardder you have to push and one time I slipped and cut through my thumb right to the bone about a 1/4 in from chopping it off so I don't do that any more once it starts to get dull I switch it out Also some people have separate blades for handle material to steel as they say the handle material dulls it quicker I haven't found that to be true and if it is not much so that blade that I get 10-12 blades from I also cut the hadle material it might dull slightly quicker (maybe) but not enough that its worth the bother to constantly switch blades for me anyway...any time I cut steel its always soft...one thing that helps is cutting wax I forget the name Jim had suggested this brand to me ill check in a lil bit but it just a wax you wipe on and melts as you cut to lubricate things....let me think so since I put this last blade on I have cut 6 full size blaes...4 smaller blades for folders and 5 PAIRS of liners for the folders out of titanium (titanium dulls EVERYTHING quick) I could probilly get 4-5 more full size blades before I change it again....as Crex said there are some things that will help, I will tell you this saw is not very good at cutting curves.....slight curves yeh but your not going to cut any tight curves or circles. but that hasn't bothered me I cut straight lines and slight cuves and you learn how to get pretty close to your pattern and clean it up on the grinder...next time I switch the blade out ill try and tally what I cut before it dulls, but would I like one of the BIG bandsaws yeh but they are very pricey but I think for the price this HF is the best your going to find....I don't know exactly how much room you have but this has wheels on one side and a handle of the other so you can move and pivot it. what I do is push it up agents the wall so it only come out from the wall about 1.5- 2 feet and 3.5 -4 feet across the wall and pivot it out when I need to use it.....ill check the name of that cutting wax and get back to you that really helped...in the beginning I was pushing to hard and trying to do curves that weren't going to happen and I dulled blades quick once you slow down and go right the blades last a lot longer...also I have tried all sorts of blades and the one in the link is what ray sugest to me and is the best I have used without a doubt...you can get blades at HF to they have very cheap ones wich I tried knowing they would dull quick but wanted to see how quick then they have blades for about the same price as the link to MSC I put up so I thought they would be better than the cheap ones.....nope there 30$ ones cut 4 blades there 10$ ones cut 3...lol all of them are horrible...if you have a HF local like I do yeh I have gone and got one to use in a pinch but don't last long at all...
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  #29  
Old 01-30-2017, 07:38 AM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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I have a Grizzly wood band saw, carbide blades, riser, etc. I'm not a newb with band saws. Using one for metal cutting is a different story. Never have. I understand going slow, blade lube, push sticks, etc.

My only point and obstacle to overcome is justifying this expense and space being occupied...

vs.

how much it will be an imrovement over an angle grinder roughing out a blade profile before moving to the belt grinder to refine the profile.

Because of the mess, I use the angle grinder outside and yes, you DO have to be careful with your clothes or otherwise watch the sparks.

But unless a band saw significantly speeds up the process, or saves belts, or mess, or otherwise is some type of significant improvement, I'm having a hard time justifying in my mind the purchase.

And to clarify, I have no intent to use this for anything other than cutting the profile out of bar stock before cleaning up the profile with the belt grinder. Possible occassional bolster material but that would be rare as I rarely use bolsters.


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  #30  
Old 01-30-2017, 08:51 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I've never used an angle grinder to cut out a blade so I can't really compare that to a bandsaw. I can say that I can cut out a typical 4" hunter easily under 5 minutes. That's minimal noise, no sparks, inside the shop, and pretty close to the desired profile...


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