Attempting Stock Removal

[rockhound]

Carl, thank you. I finished the first bevel and am happy with the results.
I'm applying your advice now on the second bevel. I started the ricasso and crude bevel with my Bastard File. Once that was established I switched to a medium Mill Bastard File and am having success with the draw filing technique that you suggested. I'm still going back to perpendicular file strokes occasionally for the ricasso area and following-through for the length of the bevel to the tip... then back to draw filing, and repeat.
I have a very rookish question. Before I started either bevel, I had scribed a center-line on the cutting edge of the profile. This was made with a fine-tip Sharpie and that is the width of the line (maybe .5mm). My first bevel kisses that center-line... therefore my second bevel must equally kiss the other side of the line. This is AUS8. My question is: How thin can I get away with on the cutting edge before sending to HT? I figure if .5mm is too thin I can buffer it after the second bevel no problem but would like to know.
Thanks!
Brian, thanks for the encouragement! I'm having a lot of fun in the learning process and appreciate the help I'm getting here.

[Crex]

That's great Chris. To be fair, your second side mostly goes easier because you now have experience.
Draw filing works well for me and assures me that I get truer "flats", not everyone will have the same experience....ergo all the different approach advise that one gets here....which is really a great benefit.

Haven't worked with any stainless steels in a long time, but if memory serves me, I always sent mine off with a bit thicker edge and finished them down after HT. Someone here will know and tell you best.

[rockhound]

Oops... not AUS8
It's ATS-34

[DaveL]

You are really doing a good job. Think I will throw those Burr Kings away...

[Ray Rogers]

generally, an edge about the thickness of a dime is enough to prevent the edge from warping during HT. Thinner than that and it can get wavy ....

[rockhound]

My second bevel is nearly finished. I definitely want to thank you Carl for the suggestion of draw filing, it worked well.
Ray thank you for the info regarding pre-HT thickness, I will have to de-tune just a hair.

[MT Pockets]

I just have to say that I'm really enjoying following along with your progress, and keep the pics coming! they are a huge help to someone like me who hasn't made a knife yet.....

Gene

[rockhound]

Thanks, that's good to hear and I will keep the pics coming. I was worried this would be pretty boring to most since I'm just a noober on a shoestring budget and this is a really basic stock removal.

[Crex]

Very well done Chris! Glad I could help.

[rockhound]

quick update....
I fished both primary bevels and am happy with them (camera flash kinda washed them out in this view). Bevels and flats in the blade areas are hand-sanded down to #320. The bevel lines look good and match and the ricasso plunges align perfectly.
I've decided that the original handle tang that I designed was a monster... so here I've marked out a new and smaller handle shape that I'm more comfortable with and am about to head to the bench grinder. Obviously I will be drilling new pin holes as well.

[Crex]

Might do a mock up out of cardboard and make sure the handle fits your hand the way you want (before you make the changes). Like the proposed look, but sometimes looks aren't so comfortable when you actually put it to use. If you need to extend it a bit, you can go just a bit past the last hole and still maintain the same desired shape.
Starting to look right "Nessmuckish". Should be a very useful knife. Looking better every installment.

[rockhound]

Originally Posted by Crex

Might do a mock up out of cardboard and make sure the handle fits your hand the way you want (before you make the changes).

Excellent advice and I took it! My final trim ended up different than what I posted above and feels better in-hand now. I'm getting close to sending it off to Texas Knife for HT. They charge a few bucks extra for Cryo, which I haven't opted... any advantage to this with ATS-34? I have not researched the effects or potential benefits/pitfalls of Cryo yet.

[bob levine]

cryo makes the blade tough as well as hard. it has advantages for a knife that will get rough usage in the field. It usually bumps up the rockwell a point or so but that also makes it hold an edge longer. There are pros and cons and its why they make Fords and Chevys. Your work is to be proud of. Id love to see what you will be doing once you get some machinery. I build this design in a deep hollow grind and your blade looks every bit as good as what I do. Kudos.

[Ray Rogers]

Most stainless steels benefit quite a bit from cryo. I'd recommend it for ATS-34...

[DaveL]

You have done so well and I am not sure if I could file as well as you have. My absolute congratulations to you.