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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Parks 50
Hey guys,
When do you know it's time to change the parks 50? How do you know when it is not working like it should? Also I get some flames when I do more than 2 blades at around the same time. Any help PLEASE. Have a great weekend Clay |
#2
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Only way I know of would be Rc testing your steel against a piece tested when the oil was fresh. To be relatively sure, but file testing should give a good clue.
How much oil are you quenching in? Are you heating the Parks much above 100?? Are you edge quenching by partial submersion, or completely submersing the blades? If you are edge quenching by partial submersion, you are pretty much guaranteed a flare up. You will lose some oil performance at each flare up. Little by little until it no longer works as it should. Do you keep it reasonably sealed against evaporation, when not in use? |
#3
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Thank you WBC I've been using a crockpot and some of the handle are to long, and you are right. Today I heat treated some 1095 and submerged it all the way in a big pot. No Flair up. It was 60 degrees in my shop and I just put a piece of Hot steel in it and it worked fine.
Thank you for putting in your time & experience, be well. Clay |
#4
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I do a good bit of edge quenching in my P/50 and found that a long trough type container with a restricter plate works best. Mine holds about two gallons and I stir the quenchant between blades if I am doing more than a couple at any given time. It has held up pretty well.
I agree with a good container that one can cover to prevent evaporation. ?? WBE, I had no solid instruction information come with my Parks and have heard - Don't need to warm up/Do need to warm - can you enlighten me. I have not been, but it warms with the first use anyway. Been getting excellent results with no discernable deviation between first in and last out with a 5 - 6 blade session of HTng. I always warmed my other quenchants, but I heard way more don'ts than do's on Parks, so I haven't with it. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
#5
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If memory serves, P-50 is formulated to work best at around 100?, but will work well between 70? and 120?. If you are getting the desired results, I would not concern myself much with changing things. You could run a few test coupons and send off for actual testing if you are worried about it. If it was me, I would not allow the heat to go much beyond 100?, or below 70?.
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#6
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Thanks, that's pretty much the range I've been working in. By stirring the pot, so to speak, I have been able to keep it just below uncomfortable to the finger temps. Thought about a recirc pump from a fish tank to keep it continuously cycled but just never got excited enough to hook one up. Just using a flat piece of steel to stir (working great and doesn't require elec.)
I'll stick a candy t'meter in next round just to see. __________________ Carl Rechsteiner, Bladesmith Georgia Custom Knifemakers Guild, Charter Member Knifemakers Guild, voting member Registered Master Artist - GA Council for the Arts C Rex Custom Knives Blade Show Table 6-H |
Tags |
1095, bee, blade, blades, edge, file, flat, handle, heat, hot, instruction, shop, steel |
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