MEMBER ITEMS FOR SALE
Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
-------------------------------------------
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos



Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > Knife Making Discussions

Knife Making Discussions A place to discuss issues related to all aspects of the custom knifemaking community.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-12-2009, 12:28 PM
SVanderkolff's Avatar
SVanderkolff SVanderkolff is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Mildmay, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,472
multiple pieces of MOP

I want to attach 4 different pieces of Mother of Pearl for a scale on a folder. there will be no metal around them to form the outside of an inlay pocket. I was thinking of epoxying them to a piece of the vulcanized liner material and then screwing the whole thing to the titanium knife liners. WOuld that work? Has anyone tried this? ______________________________________ | \ / \ \
| \ / \ \
| \ / \ \
| ____________\______/__________\________ \

Thanks
Steve


__________________
Stephen Vanderkolff
Please come on over and check out my website. http://www.vanderkolffknives.com/
Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-12-2009, 12:29 PM
SVanderkolff's Avatar
SVanderkolff SVanderkolff is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Mildmay, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,472
Well the picture didn't look anything like it did on the input form but hopefully you can figure out what I meant.
Steve


__________________
Stephen Vanderkolff
Please come on over and check out my website. http://www.vanderkolffknives.com/
Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-12-2009, 01:20 PM
Ray Rogers's Avatar
Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
Founding Member / Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,840
You didn't mention why there wouldn't be any frame around the MOP but I expect you must be thinking there's a good reason why MOP is usually used inside a frame especially when multiple pieces are used.

Sure, your idea will work but it will be incredibly delicate. So, if this is a collector's knife - the type that won't ever be handled again after it's placed in a display case - then it might survive. But, that fiber backing will be flexible as would even a thin strip of metal. Anything glued to a flexible backing will pop loose. Yes, I know the flexible backing will be screwed to the knife handle. There will still be flex. Maybe if you put a screw in each piece of the MOP but that really won't solve the whole problem either.

Bottom line: if you require any kind of durability from this knife the MOP parts need to be in some kind of frame, supported on all sides, and protected from anything being able to snag on their edges ........


__________________

Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!






Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-12-2009, 02:07 PM
SVanderkolff's Avatar
SVanderkolff SVanderkolff is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Mildmay, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,472
The reason there wouldn't be a frame around the mother of pearl is that I don't know how to make one. Well, that then creates another opportunity for learning. Where would I find information on the creation of a metal frame to go around the mother of pearl?
Thanks
Steve


__________________
Stephen Vanderkolff
Please come on over and check out my website. http://www.vanderkolffknives.com/
Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-12-2009, 05:56 PM
Ray Rogers's Avatar
Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
Founding Member / Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,840
Usually the frame is formed by cutting a pocket (inlay style) or a hole in the side of the knife handle (interframe style). In an ideal world, a mill would be used to make these pockets or holes but a Dremel can do the job if you are patient and careful.

I don't know of any tutorial on the subject but check the Sticky at the top of the Newbies Forum and you might find one. There's no magic to it though. Basically, make a shallow hole in the outline of your MOP pieces and fit the pieces into the hole. Epoxy is the minimum requirement for holding the pieces. Advanced methods would include beveling the edges of the hole and the MOP - this is usually done on the interframe style where the hole goes through the handle. The mop is inserted from the back side of the handle but can't pass through because of the bevel. For multiple pieces, a backing should be used to hold things together ........


__________________

Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!






Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-12-2009, 06:38 PM
AUBE's Avatar
AUBE AUBE is offline
Master
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Cebu, Philippines (or Michigan, USA)
Posts: 909
There is an inlay tutorial floating around somewhere online but I can't for the life of me think of where it is. It was a pretty simple method using basic jigs and a carbide cutter in a drill press. Supposed to get pretty accurate results. I will keep wracking my brain for where I saw it, but hopefully someone else comes by that knows where it is.

You can also use silver sheet/wire and solder.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-12-2009, 06:47 PM
SVanderkolff's Avatar
SVanderkolff SVanderkolff is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Mildmay, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,472
AUBE
Any idea on a tutorial on the silve sheet and wire. I have never worked with either.
Steve


__________________
Stephen Vanderkolff
Please come on over and check out my website. http://www.vanderkolffknives.com/
Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-12-2009, 07:59 PM
AUBE's Avatar
AUBE AUBE is offline
Master
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Cebu, Philippines (or Michigan, USA)
Posts: 909
Nope, sorry Steve. I don't know of any tutorials on the silver work. I've only fiddled with it once or twice years ago and I got my info from a jewelry making book. I had a few of these books but I think the one that had the best description of the process was Creative Gold And Silversmithing by Sharr Choate. You might be able to pick it up online for a few bucks. I'm not entirely sure it was that book that outlined the process but I remember that book being the most helpful out of the few jewelrymaking books that I used to have.

Also this isn't the tutorial I mentioned earlier but it's very similar.....and right here in the workshop section of knifenetwork. It's pretty much the same basic idea as the other tutorial I was thinking of. http://knifenetwork.com/workshop/tut..._charity.shtml
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-12-2009, 09:03 PM
Frank Niro Frank Niro is offline
Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Blind Bay B.C. Canada
Posts: 866
Hi Steve.
I have done many folders with fitted pieces of pearl. Go to customknifegallery.com and scroll down the makers list on the left hand side to find me. I have three pearl knives made with sections at the bottom of the listings Bob Glassman has for me. I call these swallow tails and carry the last one in a leather case in my out of the shop clothes. Pearl is NOT delicate. It's about as hard as bone and does wear on the belts but no matter, I just say this to give you an idea it is tough enough. I believe the liner material will do well with good glue. You can see I sectioned on piece inside the other and then the two screws still became the positioners but the assemble presses the peaces against each other. I used the "crazy" glue to do this. It's very effective in this job.
There is an entry by Loyd Hale in the forums how he uses the thin strips of nickel siver for his fantastic multiple pearl pieces of work. Hope this helps some. Frank


__________________
Without collectors there would not be makers.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-13-2009, 11:29 AM
SVanderkolff's Avatar
SVanderkolff SVanderkolff is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Mildmay, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,472
Frank
That is perfect. Now I have something to aspire to and to use as a guide. What do you use between the locking liner and the pearl?
Thanks
Steve


__________________
Stephen Vanderkolff
Please come on over and check out my website. http://www.vanderkolffknives.com/
Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-13-2009, 03:53 PM
Frank Niro Frank Niro is offline
Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Blind Bay B.C. Canada
Posts: 866
Steve.
I will go through the assembly the way I do it. It may be over simplified but you know I just want to help.
I position and fit at this time the first piece against the bolster which of course has had the bottom sanded to flat. I do drill and screw it down. If this piece is going to reach back past the back scale screw in some area I also install this back screw. I now grind with a 220 grit to size to the outline edge of the liners. The scale is now removed and cut to accept the second piece. At this time the scale for the other liner is marked from the one first out and is cut to match. The next piece is now fitted but left a bit oversize in length. These pieces are now removed from the scales placed on a very flat surface with a piece of ordinary thin plastic grocery bag on the flat surface and are carefully positioned. This will stop the crazy glue from sicking on the lower surface. I now use the crazy glue . Usually I use the thick first and then the thin. Use enough but try not to go way overboard. This stuff dries fast but after waiting a few minutes I spray it with the faster drying spray. The pieces are then sanded flat and smooth on the bottom side and are prepared for the next piece if there is to be one.
If you find that the back screw hole turns out to be in a bad place - after of course trying to plan a bit ahead - the this can easily be corrected by removing this hole. Well, if you are using titanium for the liners and have some 1/16" or 3/32" rod on hand. Drill the holes out and install a plug by rivetting it in place and the sanding it done. If you use the engine turning and because of the positioning this adjustment will not be visible.
So now the assembled scale is attached to the liner the back end is ground to the edge of the scale and is finished ground to the top of the bolster and shape desired. I hope this helps !!! If anyone wants more, just ask !!! Frank


__________________
Without collectors there would not be makers.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-15-2009, 07:21 AM
Don Cowles's Avatar
Don Cowles Don Cowles is offline
Founding Member / Moderator
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Royal Oak, Michigan
Posts: 2,192
Send a message via AIM to Don Cowles
Our late Australian friend, Neil Charity, did a most excellent tutorial on interframes for this forum.


__________________


Don Cowles Custom Knives

Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-20-2009, 06:01 PM
striper28's Avatar
striper28 striper28 is offline
Skilled
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Holden, Mass.
Posts: 345
Send a message via AIM to striper28 Send a message via Yahoo to striper28
Like this.

http://www.knifeart.com/golkojfol.html#


__________________
A knife is no More Than an Iron Tooth! Visit me at the Chesapeake show Dec 9th.


Member of the Knifemakers Guild!
Visit my webpage at
www.gedraitisknives.com
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
blade, knife, knives


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:01 AM.




KNIFENETWORK.COM
Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved