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  #1  
Old 03-08-2017, 06:05 PM
gkyle840 gkyle840 is offline
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Trouble finishing g10

I have gotten some blue g10 from a friend and made a handle for a small blade. I am having an awful time getting a decent finish on it. I hand sanded the rear half of the handle with 120, 220,320,400 and 600 grit for about 1.5 hours. I then wet sanded it with 320-600 for another 45 min and it just doesnt look right at all. Its not exactly the fact that it has dimples but the fact that it makes a striped pattern horizontally on one side and diagonally on the opposite.
Here are a few pics.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk
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  #2  
Old 03-08-2017, 06:42 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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G-10 is a fiberglass laminate. Those stripes are simply the weave in the cloth. If you want them pointed in the same direction you need to observe the direction before you cut the scales. That should mean that the side that is outside on one side will be the inside on the other side. Other than that, 400 grit and a few minutes buffing is usually all the finish it needs.

And, of course, like so many other things we deal with, a respirator is essential when working G-10 since it is fiberglass. The dust contains glasslike crud, not good for living things to breathe it ....


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  #3  
Old 03-08-2017, 06:58 PM
mr.HC mr.HC is offline
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I used g 10 one time and will never use it again, I took it to 1000 hand sanding then pink compound on the buffer with very light pressure that did the trick, finished with acrylic lacquer to keep the fine fiberglass like stuff in place, handle turned out very nice but just a pain in the butt and so many other products out there that look so much better, but that's just my 2 cents.

Carl
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  #4  
Old 03-09-2017, 04:59 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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I use G10 for spacers, templates and kitchen knives, period. It can look nice, but would rather use linen or paper micarta in different colors for a nice shiny finish and I hate the smell of micarta. Most of the acrylics/polyesters like Kirinite can look outstanding, but some are brittle and on a full tang knife trying to get the metal to handle fit is a pain to make it even as the plastic is just so soft. Made a 8 hour job into a 12 hour one. I only use them on hidden tangs now.

G10's layers of fiberglass are just simply going to show through no matter how smooth you make it. Try canvas micarta, looks even worse though it can be smooth and shiny. G10 is good for a stable never changing handle that has to be tough and hold up to all conditions. Some of it is quite attractive, but it is what it is.
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Old 03-09-2017, 08:35 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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I don't know what the deal is, it has never been a issue for me yes those dots do show up some times, However I have never had it as bad as the pics, The way its made yes there are layers in there, The key is layers for me when it does show up I simply grind a lil bit more not a lot 1 or 2 light passes, and they go away I would bet if I kept grinding they would come back and go away again, I have finished g10 many ways most commonly as ray suggested 400-600 and onto the buff, I have done 1200 then the buff, Sometimes ill do a 4-600 buff it just to make sure all the scratches from previous belts are out and then hit with hand sand paper really quick to leave a flatter finish, I have used a TON of g10 probilly more than anything else, never had it show up that bad....I would just go to 400 and buff see if that gets rid of it
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  #6  
Old 03-09-2017, 09:54 AM
gkyle840 gkyle840 is offline
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I dont mind canvas micarta and really like linen. They have a pattern but it is uniform and can be changed depending on how much material you take off while sanding. This piece of g10 just wont change and ive taken a good bit of material off. It is what it is. I am finishing it out to 600 grit and cant decide if I want to buff it or not but I may.
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  #7  
Old 03-09-2017, 10:01 AM
gkyle840 gkyle840 is offline
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This is after another hour of sanding ay 600 grit. It is as free of scratches as I will ever be able to get it. I just did the flats to see how it will look finished.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxh...w?usp=drivesdk
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  #8  
Old 03-09-2017, 11:09 AM
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Ed Caffrey Ed Caffrey is offline
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Its the nature of that material..... you will ALWAYS be able to see the "weave" in G10, no matter how you finish it. Personally, I tend to finish G10 to 220 grit, then bead blast it, and finish out with a single coat of Tru-Oil..... the bead blasting leaves a "grippy" finish, and the Tru-Oil prevents it from becoming "dingy" front handling/use.

In my opinion, the most difficult thing with G10, or any other "layered" material is getting the consistent pattern appearance side to side.


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Old 03-09-2017, 11:33 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Ed, I am going to have to try that ive never blasted g10. Sounds good tho, deffinitly going to do that next time I do a g10 handle, Again yes your right its always there but, not usually that bad, most of my knives you wont notice it unless you really look close, Also the multi colored g10 it doesn't seem to show up as much but maybe with the multi colors it draws your eye away from it
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  #10  
Old 03-09-2017, 11:40 AM
gkyle840 gkyle840 is offline
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Ed, when you bead blast it, do you use sand or beads?
how do you finish the spine, sanding or do you have a blasted finish on it as well?
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  #11  
Old 03-09-2017, 11:50 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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I aint ed but I would guess the handles go on temporary get ground to size then comes off the spine gets finished just like the rest of the knife, bead blast the g10 and put it back on the knife.....that's how I would do it anyway
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