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The Newbies Arena New to Knife Making? Here's all the help you need ...

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  #1  
Old 02-24-2017, 06:48 PM
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Andrew Garrett Andrew Garrett is offline
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Spanish Notch

Is it preferred to form a Spanish notch pre-heat treat?
If so, hoe do we minimize the effect of the stress riser in any associated sharp angle?


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Old 02-24-2017, 07:41 PM
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Never made one myself but, if I was to try it, I think my inclination would be to cut as much of it as possibly with round files prior to HT. After the HT I'd probably use small triangle files to create any sharp corners I wanted. No stress risers and less filing on hardened steel that way I should think ...


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Old 02-25-2017, 12:19 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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I use them, just simple round or vees just so when sharpening you're not doing it against the plunge line or ricasso. Never made them for looks, but some are complicated. I always did them after HT, but simple.
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Old 02-25-2017, 06:34 AM
WBE WBE is offline
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I do them pre HT. Unless you're using diamond files, I don't see how you would do this one otherwise, and even then it would be a real task



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Old 02-25-2017, 07:37 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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I like their appearance.
I have never tried something so artful. The guards yes, but not that notch. I love screwing around with the guard, but that matching notch is not in my skill level. So many levels of artwork.
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Old 02-25-2017, 10:07 AM
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Thanks gang! Good answers all. I think I can soldier on.

WBE, yours are extremely similar to what I had planned. Now its gonna look like I copied you! lol!


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Old 02-25-2017, 12:17 PM
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WBE's knives look similar to what everybody plans but few accomplish .....


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Old 02-25-2017, 01:52 PM
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Indeed!


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Old 02-26-2017, 06:41 AM
WBE WBE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmontg View Post
I like their appearance.
I have never tried something so artful. The guards yes, but not that notch. I love screwing around with the guard, but that matching notch is not in my skill level. So many levels of artwork.
For that notch, I draw it out on the blade, spray over the drawing with lacquer or hair spray to protect the drawing, drill a hole for the tight turn in the scroll, then attack with jewelers files. Once you have drawn it out, and are happy with your design, it becomes more a matter of sweat and labor. The required skill is more in the design layout, rather than the execution. With care, some of it can be done using a Dremel tool.
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Old 02-26-2017, 10:56 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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I was thinking the drill would work for the hole. I have done some precision filing of sheetmetal parts with really tight tolerances, but it is a lot of work, especially on stainless and it's hard chromium. I do a small round relief for the end of the edge on most of my knives as I hand sharpen and do not like hitting the ricasso or having a dull spot right next to the plunge line.

Too busy to try that right now and all my blades I'll be working on for the next few months are already HT. Except some O1, but it's 3/16 thick and those nice notches I will wait and save until I have some 3/32 to try it on.LOL

I like the work you did on that silver guard and sheath. Nice silversmithing WBE.
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Old 03-01-2017, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WBE View Post
For that notch, I draw it out on the blade, spray over the drawing with lacquer or hair spray to protect the drawing, drill a hole for the tight turn in the scroll, then attack with jewelers files. Once you have drawn it out, and are happy with your design, it becomes more a matter of sweat and labor. The required skill is more in the design layout, rather than the execution. With care, some of it can be done using a Dremel tool.
I do it pretty much same way (pre-HT). I use a flexshaft (dremel like object) to shape, clean up and polish. I also use a fret or jeweler's saw for cutting out the more intricate designs.
A hint for the dremel users: You can "razor" edge one of the cutoff discs with the small abrasive stone that comes with most dremel packages. Use it to shape the edge. Then you can cut those fine notches and V cuts faster and tighter than with a needle file. Does take steady hand and practice.


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Old 03-10-2017, 02:34 PM
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Thanks for all the advice gang!

I chose to do the Dremel and diamond file thing since I had already HTd. It was slow (keeping the heat down) but it worked.

As stated, the hard part was coming up with an aesthetically attractive design that was also unique.
The one I chose was inspired by the 'fleur de lis'--its an asymmetrical slice of the fleur de lis actually.

I avoided sharp corners in the event I do one pre HT (avoiding stress risers).

Precision is key on these things! I'll keep working on that.

Thanks again for all the help!
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  #13  
Old 03-10-2017, 04:53 PM
damon damon is offline
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nice job andy.
is this the one ill be cutting on for you?
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Old 03-10-2017, 06:21 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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may I ask .....what did you use for spacers on the front of the handle, its beautiful
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:07 PM
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Damon,

I haven't decided yet. This knife may not be good enough for engraving--several flaws which impact value but do not 'ruin' the knife. Still thinking...
I'll send you some detailed picks and see what you think.

The spacers are blue Acrylester and N/S. The blue really plays the light well with cool glimmer effects. I'll link a video later. That video might be the best thing to let you look at too Damon, so you can judge the available space.


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angle, blade, custom, cutting, design, diamond, drill, files, guard, guards, handle, heat, heat treat, knife, knives, made, notch, sharp, sharpening, sheath, simple, small, spray, steel, tool


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