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Old 03-05-2017, 07:32 AM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Forge questions

Okay, I'm trying an experiment. Building a small forge from a fire extinguisher and have a few questions:

1. I know the burner needs to enter at a slight angle to cause the flame to encircle or swirl around the chamber, like at 11 or 1:00. But longitudinally, should the burner be installed at the mid point of the chamber or slightly forward of center? I could see if it were too far toward the back a longer blade may not be able to be heated evenly toward the tang end.

2. Any good ideas on how to drill the hole in the side and enlarge it as necessary for the burner? Grinding stone in a drill?

3. Necessary to coat the koa wool with refractory cement? I assume to keep the wool fibers from getting airborne and to keep from snagging it?

4. Single or double layer of the Koa wool?

5. Do I need a hole in the back for any purpose other than extending a longer blade's point through? Does it serve any practical function otherwise, such as allowing the flame to more evenly heat the whole chamber?


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Old 03-05-2017, 08:54 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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1. I tend to use the center or slightly to the rear because I like to have a closed rear on the forge. I put the steel as far into the forge as I can.

2. A hole saw in a hand drill.

3. Satanite works well. It's super thin, like house paint and can literally be applied with a brush. If you have a heavier refractory just add a lot of water to it.

4. Depends on how big your case is. You want the interior to be as small as practical. Generally 3 or 4 inch interior diameter is enough. With a good burner it could be larger. 1" of wool is enough for insulation, more can be used to make it smaller but then takes longer to heat the forge.

5. I like it closed. You have a fire extinguisher so the end is closed. If it doesn't work out then you can just cut it off ....


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Old 03-05-2017, 10:42 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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As far as the hole just as ray said drill a small hole then use a hole saw with a pilot bit to keep it centered. Both of my forges the burner actually sits almost perfect horizontal to the ground but it goes in up at the top so the flame skims off the top and down the other side. Again as ray said I have always used satinite but always more than one coat. I would do one coat let it dry for a day then turn the burner on low, Then turn it on and off and each time turn the burner up a little and keep it on longer, This will make sure the satinite is completely dry. Then a second coat, I put the first layer on thick once and I guess I didn't let it dry enough before the second coat and when I was drying the second coat with the burner. Since there was still some moisture in the first layer it started to I guess boil off. BUt there was a bunch of MINI explosions inside the forge and it was the satinite "POPING" of the wall. Then I was left with a bunch of spots that needed to be re coated, Think thin and let it dry. I always made sure the back was open just as much as the front. I went and got a bunch of HARD fire bricks (I geuss the soft ones would work never tried the hard ones are cheaper and easy to find locally, TIP find a place that put in or fixes fireplaces I guarantee they will have these hard fire bricks. They are like a yellow-y light brown color and come in 2 sizes one like a regular brick and one thin one) That way I use the fire brick to close up the end, Now you can open it if you have to but just put 2 bricks up agenst the opening to close it off. Best of both worlds kinda thing
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angle, back, blade, building, burner, coat, drill, easy, fire, forge, grinding, hand, heat, how to, knife, koa, make, paint, small, steel, stone, tang


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