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The S.R. "Steve" Johnson Forum Specialized knife making tips, technique and training for "ultra precision" design work enthusiasts.

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  #1  
Old 05-23-2001, 06:14 AM
SLKnives
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440V


Steve,

I see you have used 440V. Are there any particular problems to watch out for or any helpful hints in working with this steel. I was told because of the high vanadium content it is hard to obtain a good finish? I don't know if they were referring to a mirror polish, satin finish, or what. I've just ground 10 blades of 440V and have not yet heat treated or finished any of them so any sugestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Schuyler
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Old 05-23-2001, 11:04 AM
Geno
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It is hard to work by hand. I use Windex as a lube to sand with.A good sanding block is also needed.It works slow so be patient.
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Old 05-24-2001, 06:43 AM
SLKnives
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Geno,

Do you get a streak-free finish with the windex ??

Thanks for the reply. What grit do you use and finish up with for a hand rubbed satin finish on this steel ? I had tried several kinds of belts to get to the point I could go to hand rubbing and it just took forever. I had just about settled on a 220 grit machine finish.

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Old 05-24-2001, 06:52 AM
dogman
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I have never worked 440V, but would a Scotchbrite wheel help with the satin finishing?
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Old 05-25-2001, 12:22 AM
srjknives
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We need Tom Mayo to comment on this question. He is VERY familiar with it and thinks it's the best steel on earth, more or less...

Maybe he'll pop in sometime. As I recall, it's very slow to work, as you have found. I have not heat treated any as of yet. Sorry, I'm no help. Am excited to get a blade ready, though.
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  #6  
Old 05-25-2001, 10:20 AM
JerryO13
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I don't have any blades from 440v, I do have a 420v apogee from Darrel Ralph. It has a great satin finish, that when it gets scratched I take a scotchbrite scrubby to it. I seem to recall him saying that getting a mirror polish would be very difficult (if not impossible), but the satin looks good.
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Old 05-25-2001, 06:55 PM
Geno
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Yes, Just keep rubbing untill the steaks go away.
Every time you change to fresh paper, the steaks start all over.Keeeeeeeeeeeeeeep rubbing untill you get a EVEN finish.
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  #8  
Old 05-26-2001, 03:46 PM
srjknives
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Here's what Tom Mayo who, in my opinion, knows what he's talking about, has to say about steels, with comments on 440V and 420V. Of course you all know that 440V is now called S60V, right?

Here's the quote from Mayo's web site: (I hope Tom is OK with me stealing his info.!!)

"I make all of my knives via the stock removal method, using either ATS-34, BG-42, the Crucible Particle Metallurgy 440V and 420V, or the super alloy Talonite (Stellite 6BH). I favor ATS-34 for knives that are going to be used very hard, as it remains very tough at high hardness. BG-42 is showing more and more that it is the best all around steel in the custom knifemaking industry, as more and more knifemakers turn to it as their primary steel. 440V and 420V are the ultimate for edge holding; I have friends who will testify to going through 30 or more animals before the knife needed sharpening, but they are definitely not the steels for a camp axe or machete. I primarily use these two steels on small hunting knives and folders that are going to be used for hunting. They are much more expensive than ATS 34 or BG 42, and require a lot more belts in the grinding and finishing process, and so there is an extra charge for these steels (CPM T440V and 420V). I am personally convinced that these are the best steels on the market today,..."
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