taking it to the next step

As our grind lines improve and we find that our old buffing methods (sticthed muslin wheels and buffing compounds of various grits)are washing away our progress what would be recommended to use next.

After going through all the grits on the grinder go back to basics and hand sand down to 2000 and THEN go to the buffer to clean up?

I think Steve is out for a few days at Boy Scout Camp or another function. Try this:
pub42.ezboard.com/fcustomknifedirectoryforumfrm5.showMessage?topicID =23.topic

Nothing more to add, here.

Realize that the above-mentioned link is the way I do it. There are many makers out there who'll have a different, sometimes better, way. You've gotta find your own way of polishing; one that works for you. This works for me.

Give a holler, here, if you need any help. Good luck!

Back from a family reunion in south Utah. Beautiful country and some fun hiking, swimming and fishing in Calf Creek, between Boulder and Escalante. I'll post a shot of the scenery later, if interested.

Thanks, Bob for the help.

Thanks gents!!!

I have done the 2000 grit hand finish,but my hands do not like it much.The cork and other belts mentioned above seem to working for most so that will be the route that i will persue.

Thanks again,
Mike K

Have fun. In my mind, the cork belts were really one of the break-throughs for me in making polishing much, much easier. Make sure you get them broken in.

Let us know how it goes, and whether you run into any problems. Get every scratch out from the previous belt, or you'll have problems.

can you tell me how to break in a cork belt.

and can i recondition a used one?

thanks,
stan

The only way to break in a cork belt is to use it as a mid grit belt until it is nearly bald then add green compound and use it for a final finishing belt. Properly done it will reduce your buffing time to only a few minutes 2-5 minutes per side on hunters and bowies. This is the best way I know to prevent grind lines washing out.

This is an excrpt from the link shown in entry no. 3 above and here:
pub42.ezboard.com/fcustomknifedirectoryforumfrm5.showMessage?topicID =23.topic

"To break in the cork belts, put them on the grinder with a tool rest in place. Using a scrap piece of blade steel, or whatever, wear on that belt for a good 10 minutes, with a serrated, or smooth wheel. Be careful not to "break" the corners, or edges, of the belt too aggressively, or all the cork and polishing media will peel off. Buffing compound helps here, I think, in making it easier to "fold" around the edge of the wheel a little. You do need to slightly break or round the corners of the belt around the edge of the wheel, however, but be careful not to overdo it. It is smelly and dirty for that 10 min, but it takes that long (10 min. by the clock) to break the belt in.

A new cork belt looks like a 36 grit AlOX belt, it's so rough. When it's broken in, it has some smooth spots, some valleys and starts taking on a smoother, slightly shiny appearance. Use the buffing compound during the "break-in." Be advised tht it takes some pressure, and time to do the job. You don't want to peel off cork, you are trying to just smmooth out the surface of the belt somewhat.

These belts will then last you 2-3 years, assuming that you do 50-100 knives per year. Take a little care with the edges, as I've noted above. Use ample compound. Hopefully, you might be as happy with this process as I am. The cork belt is the best thing to come along in many a year, as far as I'm concerned.

What is your source for the cork belts?


Thanks,

Bob Sigmon

I generally get mine from Bader. Their web site is at: www.stephenbader.com/

Remember that they last a few years, so I don't get many from anyone! I have some others that a knifemaker friend in AR sent me but they were just spares that he had on hand. He did not intend to ever use them, since he does a brushed finish exclusively on his blades.

I checkd out three suppliers and only Texas Knifemaker's Supply showed them in their catalogue. There's a banner for their site below on this page, generally. Priced at $11.95 or something like that.

Thanks for the info. I had seen the cork belts in Texas Knifemakers catalog but it didn't list grit as you had, so I wasn't sure that it was the same thing.

Bob Sigmon

You're right, they don't list the grit sizes that are available. you can maybe email them for more info.

That's interesting that they'd omit that imortant part from the listing....

My problem with mirror polishing was never so much getting rid of the coarser scratches, but rather a fine fogged effect to the mirror from the buffing. The only way i seemed to get rid of it was to do a final buff with white diamond compound from Eastwood. I always assumed it was grit contamination in the white compund from Jacksonlea. Is RCH better? Don't plan on mirror polishing much other than fittings, but it always drove me nuts I couldn't get it right.

I've used RCH since the Loveless days, early 70's, and have been happy with it. Either the green chrome, SS 306, I think, or white of the same type. You may have to go over the blade lightly to remove the haze sometimes; kind of fluff, or brush it away, with a wheel that isn't too hard or one that isn't too loaded with cmpd.

Thanks for visiting us, y'all come back, hear?