Just what is the best glue?

[SteveS]

RJ,

I found that a little with the heat gun on the steel and it runs like water (well not quite, but you know what I mean). It also wetted well (didn't glop). I've been using acraglas gel, so it seemed thin to me .

Steve

[SteveS]

This thread drove me crazy - not being able to actually answer this question. (of course like life there is no one universal answer).

But I'm trying to find out:

http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=27463

Steve

[Steve]

Great thread, Steve. Haven't read it all but it'll be very interesting to see the final results. Thank you.

[jonwelder]

Is this "golfsmith" epoxy we are talking about, a 2 part epoxy, (2 containers of a half pint each, or half pint total),,, I'm spending a small fortune on Devcon's syringe style 2 ton epoxy even at Walmart's price of $1.97!!!! I'll bet I have 30 emptys laying around!!! I kept them to remind me to look for something better! ---jon

[A T Barr]

Originally Posted by jonwelder

Is this "golfsmith" epoxy we are talking about, a 2 part epoxy, (2 containers of a half pint each, or half pint total),,, I'm spending a small fortune on Devcon's syringe style 2 ton epoxy even at Walmart's price of $1.97!!!! I'll bet I have 30 emptys laying around!!! I kept them to remind me to look for something better! ---jon

Yep, that's what I've used for over 20 years.

A.T.

[Steve]

They have both the syringes and also the 1/2 pt. squeeze bottles.

http://golfsmith.com/ppage.php?stynum=9098&fcst=GSI_WEB

[BillFoote]

For full tang handle slabs (micarta, wood, ivory) I have tried Acra Glas, Golfsmith, and K+G epoxy. I've found the longer it takes to cure, the stronger it is, but my favorite is K+G epoxy. I have knives I made five yrs ago, and they still hold well, with no seperation. K+G also has a nice tan color that blends in nicely with alot of handle material.
Of the three, I dont think you can go wrong with any of them.
Watch out for spacer material between bolster and slabs with 24 hr epoxy, when clamped up it wants to squeeze out of position, you have to clamp properly and check them once in a while.
The new polyurethane glues (Gorilla) are great, but they foam up and squeeze out too much.

[Steve]

I have used K&G epoxy for YEARS with total satisfaction.

I did just recently glue my Pyroceram platen plate to my platen and it also slid out of position, I thought I had it level. I had to heat it up and then re-glue it. Works great. Teh Pyroceram is very smooth and very flat, it take less time on the disk after tapering a tang, also. Great product!

[SteveS]

Well our test results are in, but not compiled yet.

I can tell you that K&G and Golfsmith did very well - you'll find no argument from me on those. In my book hands down for strength, consistency, easy of use, and thin film performance is E120-HP commercial epoxy.

But you know what's most amazing of all? Sandblasting. Even a crappy epoxy on a freshly sandblasted surface could out perform the best. Yes we tested freshly belt sanded surfaces. No comparison to sandblasting. Same thing with chemical de-greasing.

Do you want good, long lasting slab handle? Forget changing glues - sandblast that steel.

Steve

[Steve]

Now that is breakthrough news, Steve. Thanks! Loveless has been sandblasting for years.

Now, why didn't we build a sandbox when we moved. Down to the creek for me....

[Andries Olivier]

This might be irrelevant to you guys, but I think it's worth mentioning anyway. I use a locally manufactured product ABE Epidermix 372. It was originally developed for the ship building industry and is very good at gap filling and as an adhesive. It's watertite and stick to anything like sh**t to a shoe. The setting time is 6 hours and optimum strength is reached after 24 hours, so it gives you plenty of time to assemble your workpiece. Once hard it can be drilled and tapped. (not that this should be neccesary for knifemaking) If mixed with sawdust from the wood you're using for the handle it makes an invisible filler for natural little holes you might find appearing after shaping the handle. It cost around R 90.00 (S.A. rand) for 500ml. Around $12.00 US. This is enough to make around 50 knives.