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  #16  
Old 09-04-2007, 05:58 PM
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The straps work and hold. They are tightened up to where the straps curve around slightly giving it a mechanical lock. That kind of pipe has a rough enough surface for it to "stick". I was going to use some of the loctite structural adhesive I sell as part of my original plans but I found I didn't need to.

The plans call for Loctite thread lock (red) after you have it all tuned up. I didn't call for lock washers because I found it needed the larger washers. You can actually crush the pipes by tightening too much so I put the washers in to spread out the loading force. If you watch what you are doing, lock washers make perfect sense.
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  #17  
Old 09-04-2007, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Garrett
In staring at the pictures, I questioned how simply squeezing the square tubes together with the diagonal 'straps' and bolts could prevent all movement and slipage. However, Tracy has established himself as an accomplished researcher here in the forums and I'll bank on his reputation. Besides, I have a few ideas to bolster the strength of the joints if I feel the need.

The house needs a roof, so that put the KMG back on the back burner..., again. This is a very timely opportunity which will save me hundreds! Thanks Tracy!

Andrew, your plans went out this morning. Look for them Wednesday. Thanks.
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  #18  
Old 09-04-2007, 10:07 PM
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Cool! Lookin' forward to studying them.

For comparison info only, I did a build cost work up based on local prices. I should be able to get a flat platten w/one 2" contact wheel on the bottom, a slack belt with the normal idler wheels, a 14" contact wheel, a 1.5HP pre-wired farm-duty from Tractor Supply, 3 speed set-up and the work rest (which I'll probably never use) for just under $1000 (all new).

That's my dream grinder and it would have cost me nearly twice as much otherwise.

Too cool!


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  #19  
Old 09-04-2007, 10:25 PM
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excellent! this really was what I was looking forward to seeing more than anything. I'd bet you have some fun building the thing to boot. I now have one for my garage and one for my shop.

On the tool rest, just something to consider. I learned grinding by free hand cause that is how real men did it and every one at the time told you that was how you were supposed to do it. Every sneeze, cough, itch or fart would cause a wiggle and then a blue streak of cuss words. That gets old after awhile. A couple years ago I started using a tool rest to do the first half of the grind, then I do a heat treat and then I free hand the clean up grind. This is improved my grinds and cut the time in half. I don't use a full table tool rest, I use a 2" wide rest that matches the wheel or platen. You might give it at least a try for a couple blades.
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  #20  
Old 09-06-2007, 02:04 AM
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Yeah, I'm always willing to try a new technique, so I figured I'd make one anyway.

BTW, I'll give you an honest critique via PM as I progress through the project.


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  #21  
Old 09-06-2007, 02:32 PM
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Heck Andy,

Why don't you post pics for the rest of us to see the progress too!
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  #22  
Old 09-06-2007, 08:57 PM
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Will do Nate!

I just got the plans today. Looks pretty straight forward so far. I'm not sure when I'll get underway, but I'll be studying them for several days. I'll keep you posted.


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  #23  
Old 09-08-2007, 02:25 PM
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Tracy, looks like the real deal. could you please p/m me your mailing address so i can get a money order out next week or so. i'm thinking i may be able to construct at an even lower price (good welder friend bought out a ton or two of metal in all shapes/sizes).
after i saw your post on the plans, our ABB/vfd rep stopped and i talked with him about it and i may get one cheap.
If i can get it all together----then its just a matter of learning to use it (sure will beat files and sand cloth) - azmike.
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  #24  
Old 09-08-2007, 04:31 PM
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PM sent.
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  #25  
Old 09-09-2007, 02:45 AM
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I'm currious if welding (after all allignment is done) will cause any twisting or warping due to heat.

Whadaya think Tracy? I'm no welder...yet.


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  #26  
Old 09-09-2007, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Garrett
I'm currious if welding (after all allignment is done) will cause any twisting or warping due to heat.

Whadaya think Tracy? I'm no welder...yet.
I'm almost sure it will warp and move if you don't clamp it down good. Anything I've tried to weld square has always moved if I didn't clamp it good and square.

If I was going to weld it, I'd leave all the clamps and bolts in place and throw in just a few button welds at each seam.

I am convinced you don't need to weld it though.
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  #27  
Old 09-12-2007, 06:35 PM
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Another question:

The 1.75" angle iron is a bit hard to find around here. The plans call for a foot, but I can only see it used as the work rest. Perhaps I'm missing something.

Could I split some of the square pipe for this function the way you do it for the tracking wheel brackets? (planned on making the smallest work rest)

All the smaller square pipe is 1/8" wall and the 4" is 1/4" wall, yes?


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  #28  
Old 09-13-2007, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Garrett
Another question:

The 1.75" angle iron is a bit hard to find around here. The plans call for a foot, but I can only see it used as the work rest. Perhaps I'm missing something.

Could I split some of the square pipe for this function the way you do it for the tracking wheel brackets? (planned on making the smallest work rest)

All the smaller square pipe is 1/8" wall and the 4" is 1/4" wall, yes?
Sorry for the delay, I was on a business trip.
The angle iron can be 2" or 1.5" if you can't find 1.75"
Most of it is used in the flat platen to hold the platen it's self to the platen mounting plate. Other wise it is used a mini-tool rest table. You can cut some square tube into "L" shapes like the brackets and make what you need also.

The 4" and 1.75" pipe is 1/8" thick but you can use thicker if you like. I didn't see the need for it and thicker is more expensive. The 2" pipe is 3/16" for a reason. You will tap these for threads in a couple of places and 1/8" thick just doesn't give you enough metal for threads. The thickness is on each of the CAD drawings but I see they did not carry over to the master list. I will correct that.
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  #29  
Old 09-14-2007, 01:22 AM
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Thanks for that info Tracy! I'm gonna get the steel tomorrow if I have time.
I'll do a step by step through my process right here--keep this thread going, unless you rather I not.


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  #30  
Old 09-14-2007, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Garrett
Thanks for that info Tracy! I'm gonna get the steel tomorrow if I have time.
I'll do a step by step through my process right here--keep this thread going, unless you rather I not.
absolutely, it would be great to watch the build. I'd especially be interested in any 'soft spots' in the plans or doc's.
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