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  #16  
Old 11-30-2017, 04:52 PM
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Grayshadow95 Grayshadow95 is offline
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Dave,
I plan on doing some tough testing of the blade to see how it holds up.

All I have is an older Dayton 1x42 belt sander, which fine on non-hardened steel and for the limited number of knives I make, but doesn't have the power to work on hardened steel.

I do a rough cut out of the blade using a hack saw, then use the belt sanders, a bench grinder and numerous files to shape the blade profile.
I made several fixtures to hold blades at the precise angle I want, and use a spring clamp to hold the profiled blade to the fixture.
I then spend a few hours grinding the primary bevel by making a few passes on a side, then flipping it over and repeating the same number of passes on the other side, and repeat the process until I get to the point to do the secondary bevel. I then use a couple grits of sand paper wrapped around a paint stir stick to remove scratches and smooth the grinds. At this point I switch to another fixture with a sharper angle to bring the secondary bevel close to finish, then switch to a jeweler's file to smooth the edge.

Once all this is done, I heat treat.
In the case of these last three blades I did a plate quench, other steels I quenched in canola oil.
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  #17  
Old 12-01-2017, 02:41 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Al, I suffer from insomnia and have since infancy. It is a great condition to have if you're an over-the-road truck driver. LOL


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Now it says Guru and it used to say Master. I think I like Master better, though skilled would be the best description
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  #18  
Old 12-02-2017, 06:44 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Hey grey shadow (or AL is that your name?) sorry bad with names.. I was reading your last post and had a thought or 2 do you have pictures of this knife that bent? not the actual bend it self but a shot from the side showing the side of the tang and the blade and bevels as well?
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  #19  
Old 12-02-2017, 12:20 PM
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Grayshadow95 Grayshadow95 is offline
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Hay Dave,
Yes, my mane is Al. No problem, I'm not so great with names either.

Here is a shot of the blade with the handle pieces for dry fit:
IMG_5061-1.jpg

One side:
IMG_5062-1.jpg

The other side:
IMG_5063-1.jpg

As I think I stated somewhere, the spine is approximately 1/8th inch, the primary bevel is 6 degrees on each side, and the secondary bevel is 12 degrees each side.
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  #20  
Old 12-03-2017, 10:17 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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Ok Al...first I do like the blade shape an that handle should be really nice when done...

The reason I wanted to see pics is to see how far you brought the bevel up just trying to find a reason for the warp...the more material you take off before HT the more chance of getting a warp...one reason I only profile before the HT no bevels...the warp could have come from any number of things...so the pics didn't reveil much there

However I was suspecting the reason you were having trouble with getting deflection on the brass rod test was because of edge geometry before I was about 65% that was it looking at the pic I can I am almost certain that is what it is....edge geometry is a combination of things with this knife pictured you have a short bevel and I would suspect the edge thickness BEFORE you did the secondary bevel was probilly a lil thick then the edge bevel on that ends up with wide geometry wich is probilly why you haven't had much luck with the brass rod test so if your other testing turns out good that the best you can do....ONE test alone I don't care if its the brass rod test hardness test ANYTHING ONE test doesn't give you a full assessment so don't worry do what ya can and go from there.....

if I remember right you plate quenched this blade right....I only had 1 time of a lil bit of a bend (it was small enough to grind out) but only once with a plate quench and this blade already had bevels (95% of my blades only have profiling done before HT) but this one did have bevels and I think what happened is usually on a flat blade (no bevels) you put it on the plate put the next plate on and it sits flat on the blade....well with the one that bent I put between the plates and put 2 big bottles of bleach (moms washing machine is next to my oven so bucket of bletch was cloest) just to put weight pushing down on the top plate then I spray air in between the plates at the edge wich helps it cool...I think what happened this top plate wasn't sitting on the flats of the blade and more on the bevel so the pressure wasn't in the right spots....even with blades with no bevels I don't use bottles of anything to keep pressure on the plate any more i hold it down in 1 hand and air hose in the other....maybe this is part of why your blade warped...just tossing ideas around in my head
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  #21  
Old 12-03-2017, 06:01 PM
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Grayshadow95 Grayshadow95 is offline
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Thanks Dave.

I suspected the brass rod test didn't work as advertised for the reasons you just mentioned.
This blade design was intentional. Don't know if you hunt or not, but I use to, until a few years ago when my hunting buddy of over 30 years passed away from heart problems. Anyway, when another friend who still hunts asked me to make him a knife, we worked together and tried to incorporate the good features of the many knives we have used in the past into this design. We often carried two knives because after a successful hunt, there are times where it is necessary to cut through bone, so the blade needed to be hefty enough to accomplish that, hence the thicker profile. But, it still needed to be light weight enough to handle the more delicate parts of the process. Plus it needed to hold a good edge through it all. I used the design we came up with on his knife out of W2, which I posted here a couple years ago. He has used it for two successful hunting trips since and really likes how it has performed. So, when my brothers-in-law who do both bird & big game hunting asked for knives, I decided to use the design but adjust it to a 1 inch instead of a 1.25 inch width, and from info here decided to use D2 steel for it's anti-corrosion properties. This is the result.

As for the warp, you may have hit the problem right on. I tried to remember exactly what transpired during the process for this blade, and I remember two things that were different. First, when I took the blade out of the kiln, the foil had ballooned out a lot more than the other two, which I suspect may have been due to that I didn't get a good seal on the seams. Second, was that right as I put the blade between the two plates and started to blow air between them, the breaker on my compressor tripped, and I had to reach down to reset it. I suspect that I let up hand pressure on the top plate at that critical point.
May never know for certain, but I was able to get the warp out, and so far the blade is still staying straight.
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  #22  
Old 12-07-2017, 01:24 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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I am not a hunter really I have done it with family and friends when I was growing up but not a regular thing. I see how that knife could be very handy...like I said if the brass rod test aint working for that specific knife test it on other things and really the best test is to just take it on the job of what you expect it to do..


You may never know exactly what caused the bend but with your description I assume your right just no pressure or pressure in the wrong spot at the wrong time... hey as long as you learn some thing you doing the right thing...usually I have to learn lessons 2 or 3 times before I correct it so if you learned on one shot and try not to repeat it well you may be doing better than me LOL....either way the knife looks great be sure to tell us how it does when used in the field.
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  #23  
Old 12-07-2017, 04:10 PM
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Grayshadow95 Grayshadow95 is offline
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Well, I usually TRY not to make the same mistake twice . . . . .
It's been more than a week, and the blade is still straight. Hopefully it is good to go.
I think I am going to leave the color on it, the dark blue has highlights of gold on all of the corners, and my brother-in-law is a huge U of Michigan fan . . . . . . . .
I'll be sure to tell him the color will likely not last for a real long time. Although, the test blade color held up quite well on the cardboard chop test.
Since he won't get it until after hunting season is over, it probably won't see much use until next fall. That is unless he gets a turkey permit next spring.
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  #24  
Old 12-08-2017, 02:17 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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never colored or left a color from HT on a steel blade but recently I have been using a lot of timascus and moku ti wich is basicly titanium Damascus and I heat color that I also have anodized some titanium liners...it does hold up better than I thought it does....also at first I thought it was fading really quick but a tip I got is just wipe it down with windex and it deffinitly brings it back much more than I thought some of it yes is fading but when the oil from your hands gets on it well it looks just as its fading so windex gets rid of that oil and brightens it back up....not quite sure how much of that would translate to steel heat coloring...like I said never didn any coloring on steel
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