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Historical Inspiration This forum is dedicated to the discussion of historical knife design and its influence on modern custom knife work.

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  #1  
Old 10-15-2009, 09:15 AM
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Question Sgian dubhs issues

Morning gentlemen,

I am getting more involved with festivals (both Scottish & Ren) I want to try more with sgian dubhs. My last several tries have failed. The main problem I have is where it attaches to the handle. Since the blade has no ricaso I end up having to taper tang or making the joint between the blade and tang the ricaso. Either way looks crappy.

If any one has some step by step pics I would appreciate it or someone who can explain what I seem to be missing here.


Thxs,
Jim


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Old 10-15-2009, 11:27 AM
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I decided to include a ricasso:


Perhaps not historically correct, but works incredibly well.


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Old 10-15-2009, 12:29 PM
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Old 10-15-2009, 05:55 PM
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This is a site a friend of mine runs, this link may give you some other options...

http://www.lyttleknives.com/galdksg.htm


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Old 10-15-2009, 09:24 PM
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Drac:

I can not for some reason follow what you are saying..could you post a pic to illustrate?

IF you are lamenting "gaps" between the bolster-plate and the blade, that is an easy enough fix..just be careful with your filing to fit and solder...if you are referring to something else..please tell us..I am sure that there are folks here, incluiding myself that had the same problem at one time or another and are more than able to head you in the right direction

JPH


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Old 10-16-2009, 10:08 AM
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Jim, when I grind the blade into a triangle shape the tang also gets altered into a triangle. I have enough issues trying to get the a rectangle tang to look good let alone an odd shape like that. I do almost all full tangs. Only done about three stick tangs and never any mortise. Add to this I work with stainless, which I have always had issues soldering you get a picture why I have stuck with full tangs

Bear, his work is incredible. I love the engraved ricasos. I will contact him to see if he is open to some over the net discussions on the blades.

Jim


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Old 10-16-2009, 12:49 PM
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Drac:

Ok..the only thing I can tell you is practice and more practice.. Everyone starts out knowing the same thing when it comes to doing this stuff and that is zero...To taper a openeing is just a little bit of time with a file and repeated fitting..file a bit here...try it...needs more off there..try it...It does take patience but it is not impossible...

As for the solder... www.kappalloy.com they have the solder and flux that WILL work on SS...Unlike most other hammer heads I like using stainless and for some reason it "wants to" work with me so for smaller pieces (under 12" or so blade length) I do use it when I am asked to by a client.

It all just takes practice as well as "experience"...It may seem like a lot of trouble but it isn't really....

JPH


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Old 10-20-2009, 05:40 PM
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All of my seax blades are flat ground all the way down, including the tang. I like the small diamond jeweler's files for opening up the tang hole. Go slow and fit check often.


Who carries the kappaloy? I'm guessing they don't sell in small quantities straight from the company.


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Old 10-21-2009, 12:33 PM
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Don:


YES!! they DO sell in small quantities..by the pound on the solder..I think the minimum on the flux is like 8 oz or so.. call them..I have used their stuff for 30 plus years...

JPH


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Old 10-27-2009, 05:35 AM
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Drac
If you are decent with using a dremel or flexshaft tool - high speed micro tool grinder - you can save a lot of time on the odd shaped, tapered guard slots using fine pointed diamond burrs. It still takes due dilligence of try-fitting multiple times, but you can get a very tight fit with, as Dr. Jim says......practice, practice, practice.

Note - when you start getting very close to the final fitting stages, slow down, remove only very fine amounts and use occular enhancement. At this stage blacken the inside of the guard slot with a Sharpie so you can see clearly where the high spots are that need to be removed.

I like to get my guards fitted to the point that a few light taps to a wood driving fork seat things firm and even. Just takes practice X 100 (or so).


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  #11  
Old 10-28-2009, 08:42 AM
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Thanks for the advise.

I will try here soon though probably with a ricasso the first time.

Pierre, I emailed your friend but I hadn't heard anything back. I love the way he incorporates ricassos in his work.

Jim


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Old 10-28-2009, 07:50 PM
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If you like, I can try him for you. Maybe calling him would be the answer. He does't play on the computer too often. Also, it's hunting season. I know he usually takes some time to go to the mountians.


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Old 10-29-2009, 07:21 AM
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Ah, the call of the wild. I can understand that.

Hmm, actually no I can't. My wife's and my idea of roughing it is a Holiday Inn with no WiFi

Actually I can understand as a lot of my friends are hunters of one form or another.

I'm in no real rush so I can wait until he's done.

Thx,
Jim


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  #14  
Old 07-02-2013, 05:25 AM
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Three hundred year old Dirk Maker

For probably three hundred years this dirk manufacturer has been handcrafting authentic dirks and sgian dubhs. The craftsman who makes them is now in his 80's so the output has diminished a bit but these are the authentic dirks of the type which will have been used in battles over the centuries http://www.sheffield-gb.com Now people buy them for cutting wedding cakes! The matching sgian dubhs are also made.
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  #15  
Old 07-02-2013, 09:41 AM
Doug Lester Doug Lester is offline
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Here's another idea, it worked rather well on a knife that hand an undercut edge for the single branch guard. That knife was full tang but the same principle should work. Try making the ricasso more of just a rim, like 1/16" or less. Just an idea.

Doug


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