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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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trademarks
I am thrilled with all the info you guys have provided. I believe I will try to make the etcher and stencils. I found the list of materials somewhere but can't remember where - can you tell me again how to get there?
I do have several more questions about it, and some of the other threads I have read. I believe I could probably use our computer to design the logo, take that to Kinko's and have it put on to the transparency or velum paper. Questions for Carl: Can Kinko's print this on the velum paper for me? our printer is not that great. What place, exactly, offers the resist, velum paper, developer, etchants, etc.? Where would I go to purchase small quantities of this stuff until I know I can make it work? Questions for Bob: I thought a black-light bulb was a more pure source of UV light...just curious. The knives I am making now are small...about 3" closed. The tang area for my logo is only about 1/4" x 1/4". Can it work this small? And with how much detail? I am planning to number my knives, would it be practical to make stencils of digits "0 -9" to etch the numbers? Can more than one stencil be used at the same time? Ex., a #1 stencil layed over a #0 stencil to make a #10? Thanks for all the research you've shared. I am not computer savvy, nor do I have the patience. One more thing, what type businesses use these materials and chemicals regularly? (Ex., velum paper, photo resist and developer). During this trial period, I may be able to go in and ask a tech if I could purchase small quantities from his stash. Again, thank you for your hard work and research. I really do appreciate it. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Walker |
#2
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If you have a printer, print your design on the transparencies yourself. There are special transparencies for ink jet printers, be sure to ge the right ones.
I use IMG Electromark for the supplies, stencil material, etchants, etc.... Ask for Patricia, tell her I sent you. Pretty small area to etch on. Even three initials would be difficult that small. It would be hard to use multiple stencils at the same time. Make one for your logo and one of each number. Etch your logo, remove the stencil and place the "1" and etch, then remove and place the "0" then etch. Be sure to align them perfectly and tape them down good. Any company that etches uses the stuff but not everyone uses the RIGHT stuff for you. Each steel requires different etchants and they may have stainless and you have carbon. The materials are not that expensive and you will know you have the right stuff because Patricia will ask you questions to be sure. I don't know if black lights are better, I just tried the white and they worked well, why change? Good luck. |
#3
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Walker,
The paper I have is from PaperDirect (1-800-A-PAPERS last time I ordered), the paper is Vellum-Accent Papers, Translucent clear. Kinko's should be able to print/copy onto it (I used an old HP LaserJet 4 to do my circuit boards). I used to get the supplies at a place in Eugene, Oregon. I am in Idaho now, so I did a search on the web and this site looks like they have the material, http://www.elexp.com/pro-pcb.htm Most of this comes in small quantities, usually aimed at hobbiest circuit board production. If you want to try this, and can't get the paper in small quantities, e-mail me and I can send you a few sheets. Black lights do have more UV than standard white lights, but is it the right kind for the emulsion? I used the lights from bug lights (fit a standard light from Target, etc.). I just ordered them from an electrical supply house. The only benifit these would give is a shorter exposure time, this may get the time so fast in some emulsions that it is harder to tweak. One thing to consider with this method, it is best suited for artwork or individual etches. It is time consuming, the board has to be coated with the Resist, dried (both in a dark environment), exposed, developed, and then you can etch. If you are going to dip the blade in the acid, you would have to either coat the rest of the blade with wax or some other acid block, or coat the entire blade with resist, and develop it so it is all coated when you etch. The method that Bob has, is better for a mark, and may even be faster for serial numbering. Bob, do you know how fine of lines can be etched with your electro-chemical method? For the circuit boards I did, this was the only way to do things, for the knives, I think this would allow a beginner to do work like what is in David Boye's "Step-by-Step Knifemaking" book. But unless your Trademark is going to get very detailed, I think the method Bob gave to make custom stencils might be the best way to go. You could however get some detailed info in the 1/4" x 1/4" area, but be prepared to experiment, since getting the resist on and the exposure time right takes some practice and experimentation with your buildup. I have also heard about some new circuit board stuff that you can print on your laser printer, and then iron on to material (I have seen some info on using those small irons used to tack prints downs in photography), then etch. If I can find a link, I will post it here. From what I remember it is not very expensive and is meant to work with Ferric Chloride. It may be after the new year though, since I think the link I saved is at work, and I'm not going back until the 6th Hope this helps, --Carl BTW--The box Bob explained would work wonderfully for exposing this type of material also. |
#4
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Okay,
I got my own intrest peaked, so I went and did a search for the resist paper that you iron on, desolve the backing off in water, and you are ready to etch. This is a positive paper, which means that what is black in the picture is left, what is clear is removed. It also only works with laser printers or copiers. I found the material, and company here: http://www.dynaart.com/E.DTF/E.DTF1.html and can order from digikey also: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/us/dk...7297&Row=25772 Now I haven't used this, but the companies web site also has info about using a vaccum table and heat gun instead of an iron. One note is that it is in 8 1/2"x11" sheets, so you would need to print a sheet of trademarks, logos, etc, and then use them. Since I haven't used this, and am very intersted in it, I will order a package of the paper and try it some steel and see how it works, I will report back as soon as I get it done. --Carl |
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blade, knife, knives |
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