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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #1  
Old 04-17-2013, 11:35 AM
clivehamilton77 clivehamilton77 is offline
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316 Welding rods for pins?

I have just been given about 75lbs of 316 stainless steel welding rods uncoated. I was also given a few canisters of arc weldings rods

I've looked around and couldnt really find a clear answer. Can any of these be used for pin stock?
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:57 PM
Kostoglotov Kostoglotov is offline
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Is the uncoated weld rod TIG wire?
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  #3  
Old 04-17-2013, 01:29 PM
clivehamilton77 clivehamilton77 is offline
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Im not too sure. Im not all that versed in TIG welding. It's just plain 2.5 foot pieces of stock about 1/8 thick
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Old 04-17-2013, 03:29 PM
Kostoglotov Kostoglotov is offline
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Should work fine

You might want to look at selling some (I doubt you'd go through 75 lbs in a couple of lifetimes). Been a while but I'd guess you could get around $100/10lbs

Nice score
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  #5  
Old 04-17-2013, 04:04 PM
clivehamilton77 clivehamilton77 is offline
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Wow! what a score indeed. It was a family friends shop that was abandoned. Snagged a decent 70lb anvil as well
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  #6  
Old 04-17-2013, 05:39 PM
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Naboyle Naboyle is offline
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I've used it. It's pretty hard. Haven't had any luck trying to pein it. I don't know if its quite worth $10 a pound but I know it isn't cheap! I actually use 316 at work at good bit. It will shine up when it's used as pins if you buff your handles.
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  #7  
Old 04-18-2013, 06:29 AM
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Use em! As mentioned, they are a bit stiff, so figure on light peening if any or they will bend and split your handle material. You can soften them a small amount with a torch, but they will be stiffer than brass. Do some testing (not in a knife handle) to get a feel for how they will move under a hammer. Better to roll them under a coarse file and let the epoxy bond them to the handle material. Yeah, that's a lot of rod, should be good for trading.
Great score on anvil, any markings?


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  #8  
Old 04-18-2013, 08:29 AM
clivehamilton77 clivehamilton77 is offline
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I cant really read the markings out but it is 3 letters in a box. Something like PFE or FFE or PPE. I tried sanding the rust off, but I still cant tell.

It has the number 40 on it so I assumed it was 40lbs, but it definitely doesnt feel like 40. I work out with kettle bells and easily clean/snatch my 40lb kettlebell. So I weighed myself and the anvil and it came to about 70lbs
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Old 04-18-2013, 08:54 AM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is online now
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Maybe it says 4.0 on it, meaning 4 stone. That was common on anvils, especially English anvils. That would translate to 56 pounds if memory serves. If the zero was actually an 8 then it would be 64 pounds ....


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Old 04-18-2013, 09:03 AM
clivehamilton77 clivehamilton77 is offline
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That didnt even cross my mind Ray. Thanks. Most of my kettlebells are either kg or stone. Ill investigate further.
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  #11  
Old 04-18-2013, 09:03 AM
clivehamilton77 clivehamilton77 is offline
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Would 56 lbs be a good enough anvil for knife making?
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:08 PM
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Yes, but you'll have to use smaller (lighter) hammers. There's a ratio to maintain for energy efficiency. You won't be able to reduce large stock very well, but it will do fine for smaller blades and finesse work. Mounting it on a thick steel plate will effectively add to the mass ratio (dependent on the surface to surface interface).
Look at it this way....you have it in hand, use it. Bigger ones come along eventually. My first was a chunk of marble headstone that weighed in close to that. Still have it and do a little demo forging on it from time to time.
Got nothing on the markings in my accumulated database, but still looking. Know a guy that might know


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  #13  
Old 04-19-2013, 08:16 AM
clivehamilton77 clivehamilton77 is offline
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Awesome! Thanks Crex. Ill try to snap a picture of it so y'all can see. The 3 letters are inside a beveled rectangle, if that makes any sense.

When you say reducing large stock, is it possible to make small amounts of damascus on it? Say 7 layers of 1084/15n20 about 6 inches long by 1 inch?
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  #14  
Old 04-20-2013, 05:56 AM
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Well, yes, but will be slow doings due to the mass:energy ratios. Should be able to get the welds to set on any size anvil because that's just "pushing" the steels together at the right heat. Reducing the welded billet will be the slower work. Try it and find out.
If you have never done any forge welding before, suggest you get with someone that has and learn the basics solid. Not as hard as most think just takes a lot of serious attention to heats and details.
Good luck and have fun.


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