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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need.

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  #151  
Old 11-28-2015, 04:41 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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i got it figured out my father moved enough into my account grandmother will pay him i just hate asking him for stuff like that.....i do have a question ya know how i asked about the ceramic belt since they were out of the others. whats the deal with them do they last longer? curious because if you should always use a new belt on each new blade like you were saying wouldnt you want to spend as little as possible on belts since you always need a new one or can you stretch the ceramic to more than one blade?
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  #152  
Old 11-28-2015, 05:17 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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A lot depends on how you do your work. Sometimes, the question isn't 'can you stretch the ceramic to more than one blade' but rather 'how many belts will it take to do one blade'? Use cheap belts and most likely you will need more than one to get the job done. I grind my bevels after the HT is completed so, for me and the others who grind post HT, ceramic is the only choice.

Obviously, the size and thickness of the blade also comes into consideration. Even if you grind pre-HT you will be lucky if you use less than one cheap belt per side on a medium sized knife. As I said before, pretend the belts are free but buy the best you can get. Sure, shop for the best price - that's why I said VSM instead of Norton Blaze - but get ceramic for your hogging belts (80 grit or 60 if you like deep scratches). The other belts I specified are zirconia which is good for the finer grits. After you use them for a while you'll know which ones you can use more than once and what you can use them for.

When I was at your stage I found a great deal on 60 grit AO belts on eBay. They were hardly more than $1 each! I bought about 25 of them. They wouldn't cut steel worth a darn and even shaping a handle took more than one of them if I wanted to avoid scorching the handle material (Grizzly grinder's are fast). Even 3 Blaze belts at $8 each would have done more work than all 25 of those cheap belts...


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  #153  
Old 11-28-2015, 08:08 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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ok makes sense like you said i was thinking how many blades per belt and its really how many belts per blade. but i think what your saying its like alot of other things and just takes time and practice to number one learn what belts are good for what and when and also i think now i might use a lil more than a year down the road when i get a lil better controlling the blade and learning to remove exactly what i want and nothing more. I am deffinitly going to use the 4x36 when i can wether it flattening the spine or quick surface grinds and save the new grinder for bevel's and fine handle work also because i have alot of belts for that one i already have they are cheap AO but they arent that bad i have seen alot worse they will cut metal no problem with a lil pressure. oh also hopefully tomorow but maybe monday ill be done with that first blade you wanted me to make for HT test.....i have been a lil pre occupied i finally got that shed up. when i say poor planning,drawing, and fabriction on the company that made that thing i mean really poor the drawings were horible alot of the holes didnt quite line up and i mean i checked once twice tree times #### 4 times in some spots i have to drill holes for screws and bolts thank god that is done with but i am in the middle up putting togather table/work bench and moving all the stuff from the garage in there but i am going to try and finish that first one tomorow i aint to far away now just to make sure you wanna have me HT that one first then go make the second one right
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  #154  
Old 11-28-2015, 08:38 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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hey ray i been meaning to ask you this for a while keep forgetting......you make alot of folders right so i assume you know the ins and outs of them...i have this cheap lil assited opening all gold (not real just looks gold) i got this one a long time ago and i love it i have had knives 3,4,5, times the price that i didnt like as much only problem is the liner lock started disengageing so it would just close on you so i took a tiny file and filed down between the liner lock and where it meets the back of the blade just a little and it worked for a while then started disengageing again can this be fixed? easilly? or just chuck it
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  #155  
Old 11-28-2015, 08:48 PM
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I don't want you to HT anything until we first talk through the steps. After that, you will HT the first blade, then test it, and eventually break it. Only after that will it be time to HT the second one.

If the folder is put together with screws it would probably be fixable. It would be fixable if it was put together with pins too but much more difficult than with screws. That filing you did was in exactly the wrong spot though and likely made the situation worse. Still, it can probably be fixed or the entire liner could be replaced. That's not easy but if you really like the knife then save it for the future when you have made enough knives that you would have a chance of doing the repair...


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  #156  
Old 11-28-2015, 10:56 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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i wasnt going to HT right away i will deffinitly let you know as soon as the first on is ready to HT hopefully tomorow if not deffinitly monday i really want to get it done tomorow i am a lil anxious to see how the testing goes but i have to get the stuff i need in the shed tomorow but shouldnt take too long but my father isnt feeling that great again either so i gota see what the day brings ANY extra time will be getting the 1st blade ready
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  #157  
Old 11-29-2015, 09:44 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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hey, have you ever used kydex,holtex, boltron....is there any real difference in the way it performs and ease on making a sheath between the different thickness's i think they make from 0.060 up to 0.125 one better than the other?
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  #158  
Old 11-29-2015, 11:34 AM
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I've used a lot of kydex and the others are much the same. Like anything else, you choose the thickness according to your needs for the particular knife.

Let's not worry about sheaths until you have a knife that needs one...


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  #159  
Old 11-29-2015, 01:13 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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ok i just didnt know if thicker is harder to work with i tried to call my uncle to ask him he didnt answer. but i know he has used it plenty of times he showed me how it works and helped me make one and let me make one of my own. but i didnt know enough to even know they make different sizes. i made a thin leather sheath that took literally 5 mins for that last one i made. i was curious because i have 2 knives that i got a long time ago and have since lost the sheaths one i used to carry all the time now i cant cause it wont fit in any others that i have have and if its something that i would carry alot i dont want to use this thin crappy leather i have. i will be geting some funds tomorow then in 1 more week income is going to take a decent hit so i figured buy the kydex sheet now i aint going to bother with getting foam to make a press or anything ill just wait till i see my uncle again and use his real quick (probilly not for another month or 2 but at least ill have it for next time i go visit him)
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  #160  
Old 11-29-2015, 01:23 PM
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For most regular sized knives the .060 is mostly used. For a really big knife or for a holster the .090 is a good choice........


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  #161  
Old 11-29-2015, 04:54 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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perfect just what i needed to know i am going to get 2 sheets 1 kydex, one holtex that way ill have enough for 2 knives and should have extra for the future just gota wait to go visit my uncle to use foam press ......question i know the kife i am making now it probilly doesnt matter that much but when putting a bevel on before the HT how far do you go i always thought get the primary all the way done then HT then put a small secondary and sharpen. but i read a few things and every one has a slightly different opinion but most say not to grind the edge to a point some say leave 1/16 thick edge others say slightly different thickness's but well 2 questions i guess how far should i go with it for the ones we are going to test and would i do the same on future knives? gota finish bevel tomorow morning then ill have one done
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  #162  
Old 12-01-2015, 10:59 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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hey ray quick question about the test knife i started with 1/4 thick stock. should i thin that out.? i finished one side of the bevel other side is real close maybe another 10 mins and it will be done but i realised something the edge side obviously isnt that thick but the tang and up at the spine of the blade is still 1/4 thick i didnt really put much thought into it since i figured i am going to break it anyway i just cut out shape and put bevel on but now i am thinking it is so thick that even with a bad HT its still going to be hard to break. what do ya think
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  #163  
Old 12-01-2015, 11:44 AM
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I think you're right but if that's the steel you have I guess that's what you have to use. If you can thin it then do so. Do a full flat grind from edge to spine, that will do a lot to thin it out as well as creating the best cutting geometry you can get on a small knife from thick steel ....


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  #164  
Old 12-01-2015, 12:59 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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ok full flat grind i can deffinitly do but where on the knife am i going to try and break it (i did a lil reading reading and came across a test of trying to bend the knife 90 degrees to see if it will break) i dont know if that is what you have planned but just doing a full flat grind on the blade part i can go to the top reaches the thickness of the spine and then go further to make it thinner but everything behind that will still be real thick. i can always take a angle grinder and a grinding wheel and thin the tang and the rest behind the blade then flatten and level it out on the 4x36 should i bother going that far. i guess it depends what part i am gong to stress till it breaks
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  #165  
Old 12-01-2015, 01:15 PM
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You're going to break the blade, about 1/3rd of the blade length from the tip. Bending the blade is a trick to demonstrate the maker's ability to control his HT. It has nothing to do with making a working blade.....


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