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Knife Kits Forum New to the art of knife making? Learn to make awesome knives, using advanced hands-on training inside. From KnifeKits.com. |
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#1
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I bit the bullet...
DR3 BL is on its way along with red vulcanized liners and a backspine. It's the most expensive folder I've bought to date, I hope it comes out nice
I forgot to order the Cuda spring which I meant to. If I get the whole knife apart without it, how easy is it to put in later? Is it just a 5-minute drop in? |
#2
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Hi Kaiser:
The kit goes together very nicely and makes a great knife. I don't know what a cuda spring is. If you put carbon fiber spacers under the scales the stock kit screws may not be long enough to go through scale and spacer and thread into the liner. I have this problem right now and I'm waiting on the answer on the newbies forum. |
#3
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Cavetech is right about the increased thickness caused by the spacers. You can adjust for that by sanding down the scales from behind (you can do that to the bolster as well if you want to run the spacers under the bolsters). Or you can simply buy longer 1-72 screws (they have a decent assortment at knifekits.com). Note: The easiest way to adjust the length of the screws is to screw everything in place on the liners while the knife is unassembled. Grind the screws flush from behind. Then when you remove the screws the threads automatically clean themselves...makes it a whole lot easier to screw them in later on.
As for the spring...Once you figure out how to do it, it only takes a minute to install the spring (that is...once the knife has been taken back apart again). Dennis Greenbaum |
#4
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Thanks for the advice, guys!
I bought a piece of 12x12.5 black g10, not precut scales, and I planned on having to do some sanding anyway I wonder when it will get here? Hopefully by the weekend My plan is to do what's in the attachment! I want to mill some horizontal slots in the G10 for grips (I'll give the G10 a pretty smooth finish), put down some red spacers (red and black are a great duo), put a tip-up standard black clip on the opposite side, and then add in the CUDA spring. THEN I want to do some drill or filework on the spine of the blade and or spine of the handle and fill it in with Half-Life (not the game). How does my plan sound? I think the biggest problem I can think of right now is installing a tip-up clip where it would have to be threaded through the G10, but if I use the three-hole standard one (instead of the two-hole foldovers), then I'll have more support for the knife and clip and not so much stress on the threads, so hopefully the amount of metal liner will serve as a good anchor point. Actually, the handle milling is very subject to change. It looks a little odd in my Microsoft Paint rendering (), so I might consider other designs. I'll go check out the gallery for inspiration... Last edited by KaiserDanimal; 01-22-2006 at 04:24 PM. |
#5
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Great project , especially milling handle idea .
Hope this not be treated as coping, but its almost same project , I have in my draw files . Small addition on my site , its similar to AFCK pimping I did in past , black micarta back spacer with addition of Knife Kits magic glowing substation. Can’t make “glowing” picture with my camera ,and my photography skills , but its coll ,trust me…. |
#6
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Hi Kaiser:
You might be interested in this thread under newbies: http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=33521 |
#7
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Thanks Cavetech!
Seiken: Those half-life holes actually look cool even in daylight! Thanks for letting me know what mine will look like I plan on doing the same thing, but maybe higher on the spine. I'm not sure yet. I actually thought it might be cool to make a channel or groove down the length of the spine of the blade and fill with with the stuff so when it flicks open in the dark (with an illegal auto spring ) it would look neat. But I probably won't put the spring in OR add the glowing. #### laws |
#8
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Oh yeah,
I was wondering if it would be possible to put a coat of half-life on the button, or if it would come off if it wasn't in a recess. How durable/secure is that stuff, anyway? |
#9
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KaiserDanimal
nice rendering!!! the halflife is only as secure as your glue/ epoxy medium. so a good 2 part epoxy would be more secure then clear nail polish. i put the half life in a bottel of the clear nail polish. and i brush small ring aroung the reflector of flash lights near the bulb side. then when ever you use the flash light it charges the glow powder automaticly. some examples of things ive done with the half life/ glow powder(i use a different brand though i think its the same stuff) Last edited by justice; 01-22-2006 at 10:35 PM. |
#10
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next 2 are large pics so beware if you have 56k Seiken i take my glow pics with no flash in a low light room and use a very bright flashlight sun light works well but you have to put it on a window cill to charge the glow powder. then take the pic as fast as possible heres the light i use to charge the glow powder/halflife ps. this is the company i get my current glow powder from http://lumi-lt.com/Index.html thay carry a varity of colors and have good prices Last edited by justice; 01-22-2006 at 11:03 PM. |
#11
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Kaiser
The backspine is a perfect fit on a DDR3 but on the DDR3-BL it is a bit too thick and will have to be thinned down to fit correctly. I don't think anybody mentioned this. Personally I like the spacers, the backspine looks good especially with filework but it makes a heavy knife even heavier. andy __________________ With a name like Cutt...
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#12
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Thanks for the tip, Andrew! I'll have to keep that in mind. I figured the backspine would be heavy, but I'm not big on open-backed knives for some reason, so if it's not TOO heavy I'll keep it.
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