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  #1  
Old 06-24-2004, 03:58 PM
Bill Vining's Avatar
Bill Vining Bill Vining is offline
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Anodizer/Rectifier

I posted this on CKD and it never came over here. At least I could not find the post.

I built an anodizer a while back from the plans on Bob's site and it worked great. I recently built a new cable set up inclucing a new rectifier and titanium hook. I have been having some problems with it getting even colors. As suggested in the thread previous to this, I check the leads and found I had them backwards. Now that the leads are correct, I am getting coloration but it is very uneven. I am also getting tiny spots burned into the part that need heavy sanding to remove. I checked the connections, all is well. The parts are well cleaned and free of dirt, oil, grease and all other contaminants before anodizing. I am doing the same things I was before but the results are different. The only thing I can attribute this too is the Bridge rectifier. I went to Radio Shack to buy a 250v 5a rectifier and all they had was a 200v 6a. Could this be the culprit?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Bill
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Old 06-24-2004, 10:34 PM
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AUBE AUBE is offline
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i bought my anodizer so know nothing about the wiring aspect....

are you sure you didnt do some machining that may have forced a foreign material into the surface or the Ti.? say if you use a sanding belt that was also used to grind steel and some steel dust melted into the Ti...then when u anodize it it will cause burning and uneveness anywhere the Ti is contaminated.
it a long shot but ive had this problem with Ti and Al before.

other than that or a electric problem i dunno what else it would be. you would have to be way off in the electrolyte to cause burning like that

-Jason Aube
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Old 06-24-2004, 11:21 PM
Mail4Tim Mail4Tim is offline
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I doubt the problem is the bridge. Keep in mind that the ratings on the rectifier are maximums. The one you bought will give you plenty of both voltage and current. I would suspect the solution you are using. I'd dump it and start fresh. Also at what voltage are you getting the burning? are you starting low and working your way up?

Tim
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Old 06-24-2004, 11:51 PM
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Bob Warner Bob Warner is offline
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I would seriously doubt the rectifier has anything to do with it. What does your cathode look like? Is it bigger than the part being colored? Is it clean? Are you using new solution and has the TSP disolved completely in the water? Are you moving the piece around in the solution to remove bubbles? Is there a chence you are loosing contact between your piece and the hook and then reconnecting? Is your hook TI? Is there any possibility that grinding dust got into your solution?

Just a few things to check.


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Old 06-25-2004, 04:32 AM
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Bill Vining Bill Vining is offline
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Thanks for all the replies. As a matter of fact, everything that you mentioned could be a possibility.

I will make a new batch of electrolyte and make sure everything is disolved.
The hook is Ti but it is larger than the liners. I will make a smaller one.
I will resand with a fresh belt.

Thank you all for the suggestions. I will let you know how I make out.

Bill
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Old 06-25-2004, 06:00 AM
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Jeff Higgins Jeff Higgins is offline
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Reactive Metals also has a lot of good supplies like niobium hooks and electrolytes. The TSP works very well for me, but I know some folks who love using a weak sulphuric acis solution. They claim they get better greens from the sulphuric.


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