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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making. |
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#1
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sheath suggestions requested
I just finished this dagger , although I may get some engraving done on it, and can't figure out how to sheath it. Or maybe I should just make some sort of stand for it.
I have thought of an all stainless sheath but figure that may be too heavy. Thanks in advance for all your suggestions. The knife is 11" long and 1 1/4" at its widest point. __________________ Stephen Vanderkolff Please come on over and check out my website. http://www.vanderkolffknives.com/ Thanks |
#2
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Steve, first let me say what a nice looking knife that is. I'll tell you how I would do it.I would do a frog style sheath and cut the top of the main sheath body to match the nice V- shaped bolster then I would inlay the sheath with some Mother of Pearl to match the handle.Stainless would look nice also but I prefer leather.Just my thoughts but whatever you do I am sure it will look good.Dave
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#3
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Steve - Like Dave I'd use a core shaped to fit the bolster than cover the sheath in it's entirety or use a wrapped throat piece ala a frog that would com up and over the bolster for retention:
Here are a couple of ideas - these are both full wrap but they should give you some ideas - if you need more detailed info feel free to give me a shout by phone. Front view A closeup of the throat from the top Actually the easiest system would be to do the core in three pieces - front back and welt. Then use a front a back overlay with a standard belt loop. Materials belt loop, front and back core: 8/10 oz front and back overlay: 4/6 oz welt: 3/4 oz but 4/6 will work Basic Steps: 1) Contact the cement the rear overlay to the rear core piece - rough side to rough side - this will make the smooth side of the core the inside of the sheath. If dying the sheath, dye and completely smooth/finish the part of the overlay that will cover the bolster. 2) Attach the belt loop to the glued rear core and overlay. 3) Glue the font core and front overlay - dye, etc as you did the rear. 4) Glue the welt to the front piece and then glue the rear on. 5) Sew 6) Mold the sheath to the blade Daggers like this are one of the hardest knives in the world to get a good secure retention fit, but by using a fairly thin welt (actually I skive mine down to match the contour of the blade leaving no more than 3/32" along the edge) and molding the sheath to the blade you can get a good snug fit. __________________ Chuck Burrows Hand Crafted Leather & Frontier Knives dba Wild Rose Trading Co Durango, CO chuck@wrtcleather.com www.wrtcleather.com The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses. |
#4
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Stephen , no sheath help here but I just wanted to say I admire you work. Very clean and excellent design and execution.
__________________ plastic is for buying knives with , not sheathing them. formerly known as " Vegas Henchman "... |
#5
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It is unfortunate that in the quest to create a beautiful knife some very desirable features may not be incorporated. Chief amongst these neglected features is the ability to sheath the blade so that it is functionally sound, has adequate retention profiling, and to (at least partially) display the beauty of the enclosed weapon. Two daggers are displayed on the cover of this annual. Both are beautiful and both present sheathing problems. The one underneath Steves has no visible way of restraining in the sheath other than friction or a flap of some sort over the entire handle. In this particular dagger, I would assign it do desk duty as a super letter opener. Yes, it can be sheathed but the possibility of being ejected from an unsecured sheath is not remote. Steve's dagger has a handle that is as long as the blade and, undoubtedly, heavier so that restraint is a necessity. There is enough swell in the bolster for a restraint strap ( to be incorporated in the leather frog) that would either encircle the handle above the swell or cross diagonally over the swell to the front of the sheath and fasten over the frog stud. In my humble opinion, any stabbing or thrusting blade requires enough guard to protect the hand of the user---particularly if I were the user! I am aware that perhaps neither of thse beauties will ever be in the capacity of "user" and a simple layered sheath without restraints would be adequate for display purposes. ---Sandy---
__________________ Martin (Sandy) Morrissey Master Leather Craftsman 1105 Stephens Road Blairsville, GA 30512 706-379-1621 |
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blade, knife, knives |
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