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High-Performance Blades Sharing ideas for getting the most out of our steel. |
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#1
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best steel for throwing knives
I am having some throwing knife blankes EDM'ed at a local machine shop. 131/2 inches. Does anyone have any input on the best steel to use? they want /suggest stainless, I prefer dark carbon blades. Any thoughts? economy vrs. durability? They don't have to hold a good edge, just not snap or bend when you throw em. |
#2
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I would highly recommend 0-1, its not that expensive and can be heat treated to most any hardness you want it. I have made a number of throwing knives from it and never had a broke or bent blade. |
#3
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best steel for knife making
Thanks Terry, i'll try it and see how it goes. May I say,finding this site is like a kid finding the key to the candy store! Since then, i've lost alot of sleep,"I'll just read one more post"-ed myself till daylight a few times.Everyone on here should commended for their generosity with their hard earned knowledge.I could go on and on, but i'll keep it short. Thanks again. Roc |
#4
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Re: best steel for knife making
Roc, I think you'll find that point geometry is more important than the steel. Most throwing knives are just beveled on the forward edges, leaving the bulk of the knife at the full thickness of the steel. Many commercially produced throwing knives are not even hardened, since sharpness and edge holding is not a big issue. Yep, these forums are definitely addictive. |
#5
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best steel for throwing knives
jerry,thanks. I have noticed that my Olsen O.K. knives blunt easy if i hit a rock or another knife,but they do not bend. I assumed they were differentially heat treated, (softer tip,harder spine) I have made throwers (steel of unknown origin) 1/4 inch thick that bent every time you throw them. I have 6 used Olsen O.K.'s 11 inch. 1- 13in. tru-bal ( used) unknown model. 1 mint tru-bal bowie-axe.A mint pair of Case XX 305 8 dots. All are out of production so it would be insane to throw them. Do you have any thoughts on tip geometry you could pass on? thanks Roc |
#6
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For sticking into wood or anything softer, I would think a 45 degree bevel would be sufficient. Anything finer would be too fragile. You can make the blade penetrate better by rounding over the top of the bevel where it meets the flat. That won't weaken the blade, but will substantially reduce drag as it penetates your target. I'd avoid sharpening the edge to anything that would even cut through paper. No need for it, and it would only make the edge more susceptible to bending or breaking. Good luck. |
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blade, knife, knife making, knives |
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AKmik, Blue Sasquatch, gwhesser, Mkscho67, rontwa, SmokeyJay, teejay1980, themage, Tigweldr |
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