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The Sheath/Holster Makers Forum This is the place to discuss all forms of sheath and holster making. |
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#1
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Tips on a pancake sheath
Hi guys,
I'm making a pancake sheath to go with a wharncliff EDC for a Louisiana police officer. Wearing it the small of his back will keep it available but out of the way of the rest of the gear he carries. I'll be following the instructions in the Jul-Aug '03 issue of The Leather Crafters & Saddlers Journal. It discusses how the plug/welk needs to be thicker so the back sets flat on the back and covers a few other things as well. This will be the first pancake style I've done and I was looking to see if anyone has any other recommendations? Thanks for your time, Jim Last edited by Drac; 02-14-2006 at 10:41 AM. |
#2
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SO your going to make it for 2.5 inch belt loops ? Just off my head it seems there wont be enough room on his belt for all his normal stuff AND a pancake style sheath.
Dave |
#3
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Could you post a sketch or pic of what you have in mind? Is it going to be horizontal or vertical carry? How big a' feller is the wearer?
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#4
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This is supposed to be a surprise for the officer. He's getting me some stuff from the parades & I told him I'd make it worth his effort. This knife is a very basic design. It came about as I was working on my gent's carry design but turned out to bulky for what I wanted, but it turned out well and it would have been a shame to throw away. I was going to keep it around for a charity knife but I think (hope) he'll appreciate it more.
The knife in question: From talking with him in the past he doesn't ware anything on the back side of his belt & since he wares an Uncle Mike's brand belt (2" wide) a horizontal carry wouldn't look all that great. The knife at it's widest is only 1 1/8". I know he's right handed and that he wares his belt pretty much all the time on duty. He, like me, is also in the Navy Reserves out of Ft. Worth. On the base he's a Master-at-Arms, so he wares a 2" canvas belt all the time there too. I'm working on the pattern now & I'll scan it in once I get something close. I'll post it here before I start cutting leather though. Thanks for your input, Jim Last edited by Drac; 02-14-2006 at 12:27 PM. |
#5
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Can you scan and post a pic of the design from the magazine?
I would suggest using snap straps for the belt loops rather than slide on loops......... __________________ Chuck Burrows Hand Crafted Leather & Frontier Knives dba Wild Rose Trading Co Durango, CO chuck@wrtcleather.com www.wrtcleather.com The beautiful sheaths created for storing the knife elevate the knife one step higher. It celebrates the knife it houses. |
#6
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Will do, though I'm not picturing what what your talking about with the straps.
Jim |
#7
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Here's the idea. Scanner started messing up last night after this scan so I couldn't get the article or the pattern scanned but I hope this is enough.
Red lines are stitching & the basket weave is just to show the stamping area. Am I right when I marked across the open area for reinforcing the sheath? In the article they taper the welk toward the sides to keep everything smooth and flat on the back. Jim Last edited by Drac; 03-23-2006 at 05:52 PM. |
#8
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Looks like it will work fine. Good balance on the design and integration of the cant.
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#9
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Ive done a few pancakes but none had a welt so I am no help here.
Good Luck Dave |
#10
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I like this design and may adopt it!
Please post pics when it's done! __________________ Andy Garrett https://www.facebook.com/GarrettKnives?ref=hl Charter Member - Kansas Custom Knifemaker's Association www.kansasknives.org "Drawing your knife from its sheath and using it in the presence of others should be an event complete with oos, ahhs, and questions." |
#11
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Jim, my friend----that is a very practical approach to the sheath you have in mind! A welt is not needed or even wanted at any part other than the blade edge. The pancake belt slots would suffer from inflexibility if they were welted. The firmness is a plus in the sheath but a minus on the belt slots and the extra stitching is not warranted if the front and back is laminated with contact cement. I am a little confused about the restraint cuff you show on the handle. I fail to see where the restraint is effective as far as handle swell, finger groove, or guard is concerned. I see how the cuff is an extension from the back portion of the sheath and think it is novel and practical though. Please let us see the finished product! ---Sandy---
__________________ Martin (Sandy) Morrissey Master Leather Craftsman 1105 Stephens Road Blairsville, GA 30512 706-379-1621 Last edited by Sandy Morrissey; 03-04-2006 at 01:26 AM. |
#12
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It's done
Here's the final product. After four failed attempts this is as good as it got. The first was too thick on the loops. The second I thinned on the back of the loops but it snapped. The third I angled on the loop but the glue came apart. This one, as my wife agreed with, is not one of my best efforts but I think it will at least hold together.
Here's it on an old duty belt of mine. The canvas is thicker than the nylon so it shouldn?t be an issue for warring. The restraint cuff is around the thinnest area of the handle. Even a good yank up on the hilt won't get it out. It slides out pretty easy once the snap is popped and that pops with a flick of the thumb. One of the things that really pi$$ me off id that after all the fitting, shaping, re-fitting, ect, the dang blade didn't set flush in the sheath Jim PS - I will be including the information for contacting Paul, Sandy or Kenny if he wants a real sheath Last edited by Drac; 04-13-2006 at 12:07 PM. |
#13
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That's a good looking rig. Fitting stuff for duty rigs is a pain, but you did a good job. Are you ready to shoot for number five?
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blade, knife |
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