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The Outpost This forum is dedicated to all who share a love for, and a desire to make good knives, and have fun doing it. We represent a diverse group of smiths and knifemakers who bring numerous methods to their craft. |
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#1
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Knife sharpening
Im sure this has been asked before, but Im wondering how many ways there are to skin this cat. How does everyone sharpen their knives?
Me, I use a method I learned from Ron Claiborne, Thanks Bowie! By grinding the edge edge up on the slack belt of the grinder, then by turning a worn out 220 grit belt backwards and loading it with white compound then buffing the edge edge down to finish it up. This works like a champ for me, Thanks again Ron! Previously I used the platen on the grinder and a fresh 600 grit belt to establish my edge and burr, then stroping the edge on the buffer with white compound. Just curious how everyone esle does theirs. Inquiring minds want to know!! HAPPY HAMMERING! God Bless Mike __________________ "I cherish the Hammer of Thor, but I praise the hand of God" |
#2
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I use good old honing stones. I get the edge with a fine India, and the take the burr of with a hard Arkansas.
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#3
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sharpening
I have a bench grinder with 2 compressed paper wheels. One is loaded with an abrasize grit and beex wax for establishing the wire edge and the other paper wheel has white compound for stropiing. Gives me a razor edge in about 20 seconds.
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#4
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sharpening
I guess im old fashioned too. but I use big oil stones and a strop loaded with bobbing compound. Simple enough, but it is time consuming though I admit I sometimes work with the edge angle a bit before I am satisfied. I always have been kinds skeered of putting the final edge on with a belt grinder or wheel. 'figure I'd just mess it up. I put the edge on a new one tonight, a bit more beefy than what i usually do, but it will be a great camp knife.
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#5
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I've tried just about everything to sharpen knives.
Belt sander oil stones ceramic diamond grit stones compressed paper wheels with buffing compound added water stones Leather strops sandpaper I think I even tried a rock from the backyard one time. I use the belt sander and start with a 220 grit belt to put the first stages of an edge on. Then go to 400 grit to get that wire edge and then take the burr off with a leather strop. This gives me a nice multiple use edge that has some bite to it. The swords that I make have a Moran edge (appleseed, convex, whatever else it's called) to them that is done while the blade is being polished. Kinda dangerous when hand sanding those 20+ inch blades! As I progress thru the finishing grits the edge gets worked down to a fine wire. I then run the edge across a compressed paper wheel that has buffing compound on it to take the wire off. This leaves a SCARY SHARP edge. If I am just going to touch up an already edged blade I just take it across the Norton Fine India stone that I have. Just a couple of passes per side and then strop off the burr on a leather strop. Water stones cut fast but they wear away quickly which means you have to reflatten them after a while. Here is a good stropping tip. NEWSPAPER and the ink that is printed on it have a very slight abrasive quality. Just roll up a section and drag the knife edge away from the cutting stroke to remove the burr edge. |
#6
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I found that I got a better edge when I did two things. First, use water on the stones instead of oil. Second, hold the knife still and move the sharpening stone across the edge. I lay a scrap leather pad at the edge of my sink for a work surface. The stones lay in the sink under a trickle of water. I set the edge with a medium carborundum stone, and hone untill I get a good wire edge. I then cut into a piece of scrap oak or hard maple two or three times to knock off most of the wire edge. I then move to a medium/fine arkansas stone and polish the edge. Again, slice into the wood two or three times to knock off the wire edge. Then use a fine arkansas stone and continue polishing the edge. Use a couple of light passes on the wood, then a few more passes with the fine stone. I then dry the blade and strop on a piece of topgrain leather without rouge. To check the edge I roll a piece of notebook or printer paper into a loose tube and slice it at about a forty five degree angle. If it will cut that without tearing, it's sharp. I then skiv a piece of scrap leather. If it will cut that without binding, it's really sharp. The edge should be set according to the intended use of the knife.
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#7
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sharpening
That's a good tip C.M. about cutting something to take off the wire edge. I think corrugated cardboard would do much the same thing. I have oftern noticed that cardboard is abrasive enough to restore the edge on a slightly dulled knife that just needs touching up. dont know exactly why this works,maybe its just removing oxidation from the extreme edge. Corrugated cardboard is my favorite testing medium.
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#8
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Here's some unusual sharpening tips. The rim (the rounded upper edge) of a terracota flower pot will serve as a good sharpening stone.
C.M. was talking about using water instead of oil on the stones, and it reminded me of my younger days seeing the old timers spit on their sharpening stones when honing a knife. They always said spit worked better than oil. Also laying the stone on a wet washcloth will help to hold it in place while sharpening. You married guys--don't try this on a good wooden table, unless you can run fast and have a good lawyer. I sharpen backwards. Most people sharpen on a stone as if they were slicing off a piece of the stone with each stroke. I pull the knife across the stone as if I were stropping it on a leather strop. Puts a slight convexity on the edge, which as Phillip has attested, makes 'em "scary sharp." |
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