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The Damascus Forum The art and study of Damascus steel making.

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  #1  
Old 12-21-2007, 05:59 PM
caseynz caseynz is offline
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stainless laminate

ive been studying up on how to make some stainless sanmai type blades but ive failed so far.i can weld my own damascus confidently but im struggling with the stainless(im using 304 and o1)
just wondering if you guys could give me a few tips. ive tried welding around the edge of the billet compleatly and that didnt work(no gaps) and i tried welding up a can and spraying all the layers with wd40 then wrapping it in rice paper,then welding the can up with a small gap,but still no luck.also tried soaking it at weld temp for 20 minutes but that didnt help either.
any advice would be much appreciated.
cheeers, casey
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  #2  
Old 12-21-2007, 06:10 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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Hopefully, someone who's actually done it will come along with an experienced answer. Until then, I can offer what I've read and heard. According to that, your soak time isn't near long enough, apparently welding stainless requires terribly long soak times in the range of 45 minutes or longer and the welding temps are very high as well. The only reliable way to get the job done, according to my sources, is by welding in a can (preferably filled with a neutral gas like argon although I doubt many actually go to the trouble).

Seems to me a non-ferric stainless might not be the best choice for welding to O1 but that's just a guess. Also, I'd check the welding temps for several stainlesses to see if you could find one that's close to O1's welding temp. Otherwise - I'm guessing again - you might overcook the O1 ....


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  #3  
Old 12-21-2007, 06:49 PM
caseynz caseynz is offline
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thanks,ray
maybe first thing i need is an accurate pyrometer to make sure im getting to temp.
il try the longer soak times too.
i was going to try creating a vaccume in the can too,do you thinkim on the right track?
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  #4  
Old 12-22-2007, 03:58 PM
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I never understood mixing stainless and carbon steels . To me it would make better sense ,and easier to weld etc, to use all stainless. My Fallkniven is VG-10 core and 420 outside, both martensitic stainless . Temperatures and soak times are more critical with stainless.
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  #5  
Old 12-22-2007, 04:41 PM
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I think you're on the right track regarding the pyrometer and longer soak times but you should definitely factor in what Mete said and consider a stainless core....


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  #6  
Old 12-22-2007, 06:40 PM
caseynz caseynz is offline
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yeah that makes sense but these sure are pretty...http://www.britishblades.com/forums/...nless+laminate

http://www.britishblades.com/forums/...ad.php?t=47153
http://www.burtfoster.com/hunters/la...%20hunters.htm
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  #7  
Old 12-22-2007, 08:13 PM
Larrin Larrin is offline
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It looks like Daryl Meier gives his method in one of those threads. Did you try that?
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  #8  
Old 12-22-2007, 08:49 PM
caseynz caseynz is offline
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yep thats pretty much the way im trying eccept im only judging the heat buy eye which may not be good enough.allso im not sure if the kerosene should coat everything ,or just a few drips to burn off the oxygen.i think im getting near,maybe just needs refining.
thanks for your input.
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  #9  
Old 12-23-2007, 03:07 PM
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Place A Layer Of 200 Nickle ==thin== Next To The Stainless- Nickle Will Stick To Stainless And Plain Steel = This Will Serve As A Binder.
this was explained to me by Bert Foster


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  #10  
Old 12-23-2007, 03:27 PM
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The other big difference is that Burt is using 416 rather than 300 series stainless. With 300 series stainless its going to be near impossible to accomplish. I would recommend going with 416, which will increase your chances for success greatly. The trick mentioned about the nickel is what I consider the key to making it all work.


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  #11  
Old 12-24-2007, 02:22 AM
caseynz caseynz is offline
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thanks a lot guys,i can get 416 in nz too which makes life easier.ill try it and post here if it works. sheffields have 18 percent nickle silver sheet .020 thick is that the type to use or do i need a purer one? sorry about so many questions,i owe you guys bigtime.
merry christmas,
casey
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  #12  
Old 12-24-2007, 09:27 AM
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No, the 18% nickel sheet won't get the job done. You'll need Nickel 200 which, I believe, they also carry as Nickel 201 .......


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  #13  
Old 12-24-2007, 01:26 PM
caseynz caseynz is offline
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thanks, ray
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  #14  
Old 12-24-2007, 01:43 PM
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I heard niobium also works instead of Nickel, even for Titanium cladding of carbon steel.
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  #15  
Old 12-24-2007, 04:17 PM
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Dodd,

I've never seen niobium offered in any form except wire and even then it seems as expensive as gold. Do you know of some other form and a source for niobium at a price a knife maker could afford?


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