|
|
|
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
|
||
|
|||||||
| The Damascus Forum The art and study of Damascus steel making. |
 |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
06-26-2010, 05:04 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
steel , which ones?
I have a good quantity of O-1 in drill rod and small size square. What other steel will go together with O-1 to give a good damascus blend and definition? I have been using O-1 for a while now, and HT my own blades. I have O-6 {Graph-Mo} and 1075 on hand. Is there enough difference after etching to see with these 2 steels and O-1? Thanks, Tony!
__________________ Tony! 
|
|
#2
06-26-2010, 08:42 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I'm no expert but IMO I would take the 1075 and blend it with some L-6 or 15n20(swedish L-6) the nickle content in the L-6 would contrast wonderfully and the two steels heattreat close enough that you will retain the best from both(just my 2cents) -Jim-
www.shullhandforgedknives.com
|
|
#3
06-27-2010, 08:52 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Kevin Cashen uses O1 and L6 in his damascus......
__________________ Your question may already have been answered - try the Search button first!   
|
|
#4
07-04-2010, 10:02 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks, guys! I will try both ways!
__________________ Tony!
|
|
#5
07-07-2010, 12:15 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
O1/L6 makes a great damascus blade, however it can be a pain to forge for the beginner. Make sure your mating surfaces are very clean and flat. Keep the heat to the lower ranges as O1 will crumble at too hot a temp. Dry welding is a great candidate for this combination.
__________________ http://www.woodchuckforge.com Avatar, Scott Taylor Memorial Scholarship Knife Photo by Bob Glassman Chuck Richards ABS J.S.
|
|
#6
07-07-2010, 01:17 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Chuck, by dry welding, do you mean no flux? Or under pressure? I am new to all terms!
__________________ Tony! Last edited by back pocket; 07-07-2010 at 03:49 PM. Reason: to expand answer
|
|
#7
07-07-2010, 06:57 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
dry welding is done by sealing up all the seams and not using flux. There are a couple of ways to accomplish this. You can tack the stack together and weld a plat over the sides creating a box or you can just weld all the seams up. Here are a few pictures of both methods. If you weld plates to the sides plan on working the billet flat in one direction then grind or machine off the plates before refining the sides. This takes a bit longer but when you do it right you get nearly 100% good welds. It is only when you try to take shortcuts do you have problems.
Picture 1 and 2 should be reversed. Pic 2 shows the stack, #1 shows the plates welded on the sides, 3 shows edges welded, 4 shows after first forge weld before plates were removed, 5 is the same billet on the next weld cycle were the seams were welded up rather than using the plates. Hope this helps __________________ http://www.woodchuckforge.com Avatar, Scott Taylor Memorial Scholarship Knife Photo by Bob Glassman Chuck Richards ABS J.S. Last edited by Woodchuck Forge; 07-07-2010 at 07:00 PM.
|
|
#8
08-01-2010, 09:34 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks, Chuck..great explanation.
__________________ Tony!
|
|
| Tags |
| blade, damascus, forge, knife |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Metallurgy of Steel for Bladesmiths & Others who Heat Treat and Forge Steel | Julie Coffey | Ed Caffrey's Workshop | 11 | 06-20-2008 11:23 AM |
| Steel and Steel Thicknesses for Newbie | Mario DeAngelis | Fit & Finish | 7 | 10-13-2006 05:18 PM |
| Question about honing steel or sharpening steel | Dan Metsker | The Newbies Arena | 1 | 12-09-2004 01:54 PM |
| Epoxy Steel To Steel And Pin For Bolster | ORYXMAN2003 | Ed Caffrey's Workshop | 6 | 02-24-2004 10:08 PM |
| Steel Forge (Steel supplier and more) | Raymond Richard | The Supply Center | 0 | 05-20-2002 11:01 PM |
Linear Mode
