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  #1  
Old 11-12-2016, 12:20 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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rust on butt end of polished knife

Ok guys so I have never had this happen yet but one of the knives I did a long time ago ( that mirror polished dagger with blue and white handle material between front and rear bolsters) so this one was done in 1084 as it was before I had the oven as I said its highly mirror polished I always coat my knives in either rust proof liquid or measuem wax I cant remember wich I did on this one. but looking at it there is a area on the back butt end of the blade that has a very light coating of rust its more of a bunch of lil spots like if you took the tip of a pen and made a hundred lil dots. its not thick. I have taken rust of plenty of knives both mine and ones I collected but never one this highly polished so I don't want to use any abrasive like steel wool ect... then I would have to re polish it to keep it nice. if that is what I have to do then that's what I gota do. but there are plenty of products out there like I was thinking about "blue and rust remover". so I am wondering if that would leave marks kinda like a etch. so do you guys know of anyway of me fixing this without re polishing???? normally I really wouldn't care because it wasn't made for a customer its mine. however like I said this was a early blade and to me its kinda a milestone it was one of the first that came out very very good (in my opinion anyway) and I want to keep it in good condition if at all possible
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  #2  
Old 11-12-2016, 12:28 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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You can try the chemicals but rust spots, no matter how small, will leave a dent and a dull finish behind no matter how you remove the rust. Re-polishing alone will probably not be able to restore the part to exactly the same look as before because when you polish a dent or a wave you get polished dent or wave instead of a flat surface. Therefore, it is likely you will need to sand it flat before polishing if you want the same perfect finish you had before.

And that, dear children, is why knife makers who don't like to rebuild knives they have already finished never mirror polish .....


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Old 11-12-2016, 12:56 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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yeh you have a point....tho when I said re polish what I really ment was a lil grinding / sanding first I don't think a buffer would take It off alone unless I went to that 400 grit stuff and then I would be in a worse position than if I just used some sand papper or a really high grit belt. ill guess that's what ill have to do...like I said normally i wouldn't bother but like I said this is one of my favorites from early on and the first time I got a mirror finish flawlessly also first time for front and rear bolsters its deffinitly one I want to keep good if at all possible....even now when people come to the house and see my knives every one loves that one and so do I I have had 3 people ask to buy it ....and I told them NO but if the price is right I would make another one person told me by the end of the year they will have the money to spend and I told them depending on the detail 250-300 $$$ any they seem cool wit it so we will see, once I fix this one I think I am going to have to just check it every week or 2 and keep coating it with rust preventitive
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Old 11-12-2016, 06:05 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Dave; blue and rust remover will totally ruin your mirror polish. The blue and rust remover uses an acid that will satin finish your blade. It will look like it was sandblasted with talcum powder. Take some 600 grit sandpaper and sand the rust off and use your diamond compound on 1200 grit sandpaper to blend it in and repolish. OOOO steel wool should not scratch a hardened knife btw. I use it to apply blueing to my carbon knives and it doesn't scratch them. Try to mirror polish a coupon and put blueing on it and buff it out with clean steel wool OOOO is very good at getting a shine. I have mirror polished a blade and blued it and because it was so polished you could hardly tell what color it was as it reflected everything. Outside it was like the blue sky or green grass.

Like Ray though, I almost never mirror polish a knife, it scratches too easy and is basically for a show knife, as a using knife is going to get scratched sooner or later. I will shine up the blade with the diamond, but not to a complete mirror finish.

Last edited by jimmontg; 11-12-2016 at 06:10 PM.
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Old 11-13-2016, 11:14 AM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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thanks jim yeh I had thought the blue and rust remover would basicly do a acid etch on the steel. I have used that naval jelly stuff before on carbon blades and it makes it look like a ferric etch almost I thought the blue and rust remover might do the same...I haven't fixed it yet but I think what I may do since when I first made this blade I didn't do any hand sanding I went from a 2500 grit belt to the buffer so I am going to start with that if I have to back down a lil that's ok its only on a small portion of the blade. and yes this knife was made as a show knife basicly I have polished a bunch of knives but I agree I aint going hunting with a polished knife especially not this I don't think anyone would go in the woods with a highly polished dagger
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Old 11-14-2016, 07:20 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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I might suggest using a oil like Remington oil in a leather sheath as the oil evaporates it leaves behind a teflon coating, but it will darken your sheath. It's better than boiled linseed oil if you're making a dark sheath anyway. Otherwise I waterproof and rustproof my knives with a mix of BLO and melted beeswax on the inside of the sheaths. My knives do not rust if put into the sheath cleaned and oiled period. I know you use kydex, something I have never used personally, but have seen some nice knives in them. Definitely keep the knife oiled with a long lasting oil like gun oil. Research and see what is best Dave.
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  #7  
Old 11-14-2016, 12:36 PM
WNC Goater WNC Goater is offline
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Boiled Linseed Oil on leather? For what purpose exactly? BLO is typically used as a wood finish/preservative. If you are waterproofing the leather what does the BLO add above just using beeswax?
Perhaps I'm confused.


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Last edited by WNC Goater; 11-14-2016 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 11-14-2016, 01:29 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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I have a large crock pot full of Neatsfoot Oil, which is commonly used to treat saddles, with a couple of bottles of oil based leather dye and some bees wax mixed in. The crock pot makes it easy to warm the mixture. After the sheath is finished I simply submerge the whole thing in the warm pot. That gives a nice even dye job and water proofing in one simple operation ...


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Old 11-14-2016, 02:17 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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thanks guys....yeh I never even made a sheath for this one it was basicly like a show dager all polished up and stuff....if you look in my album pics its there it just sits on a shelf and looks good....problem was I hadn't even picked it up in a WHILE and I noticed it when I took it down to show a friend ill just have to check it every once in a while and keep putting renaissance wax on it
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Old 11-14-2016, 09:23 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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WNCGoater; BLO also works on leather, but as Ray said there are other options. I use 1/4 BLO to 3/4 beeswax and I find it doesn't get as stiff. It works with paraffin too and helps to keep it from being "flaky" but about 1 part BLO to 2 parts paraffin. I use beeswax, but have used both, but the customer just likes to hear beeswax. Do not know why except nostalgia. You don't have to melt anything for the leather a mixture of neatsfoot oil and gun-stock wax will waterproof the sheath!

I'm sure your Tru-oil would work too, but here is the catch. How dark will it make the leather? My Remington oil which is very good makes it very dark, but the BLO and wax doesn't as much.
Go figure. Just make sure all your carving and shaping is done.

Last edited by jimmontg; 11-14-2016 at 09:26 PM. Reason: Addition
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Old 11-15-2016, 06:15 AM
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Crex Crex is offline
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Not quite sure how this went from rust on a mirror polish to leather treatment, but don't use petroleum based products on good leather if you want the leather to stay good. Not sure about rem oil, but it was developed for protecting metal not wood or leather so I'd be very cautious about using it on these.

Plenty of good leather treatments out there that won't do harm. Real neatsfoot oil (most the stuff out there on the shelf today has a petroleum mix) and beeswax are old standards that have held their own over the decades, nothing wrong with them. BLO will eventually break down the leather and it will become brittle and crack. Not good on leather.


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Old 11-15-2016, 01:25 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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to be honest I am happy this thread went in this direction the first question basicly verified what I thought re grind and buff I will say I was hoping to find another way but it is what it is....as far as the leather treat ment I will making my first REAL try with leather sheath most of the time I use kydex I have done a couple out of leather but it was very simple fold over stich and fold a belt loop, the one coming up is for a knife I did for my uncles birth day and I know he would not like the kydex not for this one anyway so I got some punches to decorate it and try to do it really nice so you guys kinda answered some questions that I was about to ask! maybe we have a nostradomus in our mist lol any way I will have more but a few were answered without asking so that worked out
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Old 11-15-2016, 03:11 PM
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Ray Rogers Ray Rogers is offline
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You'll probably discover this for yourself soon enough but, just like with learning to make knives, you'd probably save yourself some grief if you put the fancy punches aside for now and concentrated on making a solid well finished plain sheath for now ...


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Old 11-15-2016, 03:45 PM
dtec1 dtec1 is offline
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yeh I am not going to do a lot with the punches I saw them in the store it came with 12 punch heads and was $15 so I grabed it I thought of just doing one row of this one that has kinda like a figure 8 design doing one row might take 15 punch marks I figured the other edges will have the thread so across the top in the front I think it would look good.....my uncle wouldn't want the whole thing done up anyway so I aint going to do more than a row
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Old 11-15-2016, 07:34 PM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
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Wink

As for BLO cracking the leather Carl I would say you are right and not argue about it, but mixed with wax it hasn't cracked on a sheath I made in the 90s. It was something I was told by someone at a Tandy store in OKC. So I'll drop the BLO completely I just used it as a "thinner" for when the wax hardened. That old sheath is definitely harder, but it hasn't cracked yet. The Rem oil evaporates completely in a fairly short period of time and leaves a lot of teflon behind. It was just an experiment I did a few years back and it doesn't seem to have had any ill effects so far. Knives don't rust in the sheaths I put it on, but I soak the sheath with it from the inside out after all dyes and carving is done. But it really does darken a sheath like wetting it does, but it stays that way after the oil dries. It is great for all your exterior key holes too, especially car doors and trunks as it really does leave that teflon behind. It was originally designed for stainless guns in the 80s (I had a Ruger Redhawk) because stainless tends to gall when sliding against itself.

Dave be sure and watch the Tandy Leather videos on YouTube and acquire as much knowledge as you can. I learned quite a few things from them plus I took a class at one of their stores on basic leather working. If you have a store near you be sure and check them out. Like Ray said though, it isn't the best thing to use every stamp you have just because you have it. Some are actually quite specialized. I have about 20 stamps (would buy when on sale), but I am focusing on making a good border and basket weave pattern and especially perfecting my stitching. Not easy as I hate to sew.lol Google their sewing and stitching videos as that is the most important thing you can do. Not much of a sheath if it becomes unraveled and the seams are crooked.
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