The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
11-01-2011, 09:28 PM
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Master
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 872
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Seax
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11-01-2011, 09:30 PM
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Steel Addict
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Hobart, Indiana
Posts: 192
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WOW! that is an amazing knife!! i love the sheath you made for it, and the filework is amazing! great job!
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11-01-2011, 10:58 PM
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Enthusiast
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Mosquito County, Florida
Posts: 43
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What Mr. Saylor said!
Cool tool.
Ken W.
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11-01-2011, 11:03 PM
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Master
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 872
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Oh yeah and I put a bluish patina in the cuts for the filework. dont know how well the pictures show that
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11-02-2011, 09:00 AM
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Founding Member / Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,838
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That is unique and nicely done, congrats Eli ! The photography has improved a lot too...
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11-02-2011, 01:44 PM
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Enthusiast
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Mosquito County, Florida
Posts: 43
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Every handmade knife has a story. This blade and its sheath are so distinctive and unique that my curiosity is piqued. Would you be willing to tell us how the concepts came to you and what lead to your choice of materials. I really like the eye! A fighting tool should be sharp-sighted as well as sharp edged.
Ken W.
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11-02-2011, 02:22 PM
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Master
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 872
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Well I saw some of the seaxs that others have done on here that I wanted to try one. I was originally going to do a full tang with filework all down the tang. Well I got lazy and didnt want to do that much filework. and the tang was thinner than I liked, so I went with full hidden.
I had just polished off my technique of making the eye, which is now pretty much standard for my handle pins now as they are much easier to mushroom and peen than just brass and much less likely to crack. Except I use copper instead of silver ($$$). I put the eye there cause I thought the blade shape lended itself to an eye.
I'm not thrilled with how the handle came out, too boxy. So I'm still going to round the butt a little and then I'll be satisfied. I also think both the blade and handle are nice but don't match each other 100%, but the sheath mitigates thatt. I was going to use 304 instead of the ebony, but that quickly proved too much. I went with bubinga cause its #### pretty, and because its the only wood I had enough of.
The sheath I made from wood cause at that point I didn't have any leather experience or knowledge. I made it open to see the eye. I also originally intented for it to close all the way up to the handle, but took a bit too much off and it comes up a bit short, nothing I'm too worried about.
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11-02-2011, 02:33 PM
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Founding Member / Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,838
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You didn't say why the 304 was too much but 3xx series stainless is definitely more difficult to file and machine. Try 410 or 416 stainless if you want a stainless that is much easier to shape and a close color match when you're using a stainless blade ...
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11-02-2011, 02:36 PM
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Master
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 872
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Yes it was too difficult to work. I dont have anything to make the slot. I can drill two holes, but don't have files small enough to get in there. Plus as I'm new to cutting slots, I can use ebony and use black epoxy dye
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11-02-2011, 03:19 PM
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Founding Member / Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,838
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Yes, cutting those slots can be a real problem when you don't have a mill. But, using files to link as many small holes as you can make is a reasonable substitute especially with the 400 series steels. You can get a set of needle files from Harbor freight for under $20 (mine were $12).
If you have a Dremel, a carbide side cutting bit can be used to remove the web between the holes. Then using the needle files to finish the slot is easy ...
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11-02-2011, 04:44 PM
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Master
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 872
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11-02-2011, 05:20 PM
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Founding Member / Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,838
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Yup...
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11-02-2011, 05:22 PM
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Master
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 872
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Would that work on 304? I don't meant to beat the 304 horse to death, because truly I'm not a fan, but I've got it and should use it before buying anything else.
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11-02-2011, 06:52 PM
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Founding Member / Moderator
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Wauconda, WA
Posts: 9,838
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It will work on 304 in the same way any other cutting tool will work, i.e., reluctantly. I wouldn't suggest that you throw the 304 away but, if it were me, I'd put it aside until such time as I had a mill. The 400 series stuff costs about $12 a foot and that's not too bad if you add it to your list the next time you're ordering supplies...
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11-02-2011, 10:38 PM
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Enthusiast
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Mosquito County, Florida
Posts: 43
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Me, I like the ebony. The black & red color combination really highlights the steel and filework.
Ken W.
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Tags
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blade, brass, files, full tang, hidden, knife, leather, photography, pins, sheath, supplies, supply, tang |
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