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Old Today, 01:08 AM
jimmontg jimmontg is offline
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Mountains of Western NC.
Posts: 592
Cool Man there is a lot of knowledge on HT O1 here.

I'm trying WBE's method above and finish my blades to 100% 220 grit and pre equalize for one hour at 1200 the day before. I'm tired of finishing my blades after they get hard, so try something new. All are 3/16 and 1/8" so two HTs and as per SamuraiStuart straight into LN from quench and straighten and hope none of them crack. Since I never used LN before for cryo on O1 what should be my temper temperature? 450 2x still acceptable or should I drop to 425 two tempers both with cryos before and in-between? I'm thinking 425 2 hours each?

I figure at those thicknesses if it warps it won't be much and I'll be able to straighten them when I get them back at about RC59 per my instructions. 58 to 60 is acceptable, I've had customers complain my RC 60 blades wouldn't hold an edge when their problem was they couldn't put an edge on them. I started giving small 400 grit EZE Lap diamond hones with the blades and no more complaints. I get them on sale at USA Knifemakers for like $10. It isn't like they are dull when I sell them or I don't tell them to get a diamond hone or a system they can use.

Where do I buy ATP641 or is Brownells just as good for decarb prevention WBE?

Wish I had my old job, they had a small black oxide tank. Oh well Super Blue works well with O1.
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