MEMBER ITEMS FOR SALE
Custom Knives | Other Knives | General Items
-------------------------------------------
New Posts | New PhotosAll Photos



Go Back   The Knife Network Forums : Knife Making Discussions > Custom Knife Discussion Boards > Ed Caffrey's Workshop

Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-06-2001, 08:39 PM
DC KNIVES
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Tangs


As a stock removal maker,I would like to know how other makers do the tangs on their Damascus blades.With the cost of Damascus being high (rightfully so), I have a hard time putting several inches worth into the handle never to be seen.I have been mig welding O-1 to my Damascus to use for the tang.Seems to work for me.Any thoughts?Also, what type of stainless would you weld on if you were doing typical stainless Damascus.Thanks,Dave
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-06-2001, 09:10 PM
Don Cowles
Guest
 
Posts: n/a

Dave- I have agonized over this, and finally bit the bullet. Even on full tang knives, the damascus goes all the way through. It costs me another $50 per knife to do this, and I simply have to get it back in the selling price.

In the past, I have TIG welded ATS34 to four damascus blades. 3 turned out fine, but after the fourth one was completely finished, using the finest and rarest fossil walrus ivory I have ever seen, I saw a hairline crack at the weld. I had the knife Magnafluxed, and it was indeed broken. I still have the knife, of course, but I guarantee you that will never happen again. I won't let it. Here's a bit of evidence- two Devin Thomas and two Mike Norris blades, both in ladder pattern.


Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-06-2001, 11:29 PM
Ed Caffrey
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Tangs


Hi Dave!

I personally would use 416 if I were welding tangs to a damascus blade. 416 is hardenable only to around Rc 48 or so. If it's a non-stainless mix of damascus, I'd recommend using some type of mild steel. That being said, there is one very important fact not to overlook when welding a tang to anything. Fist, my preference is NOT to WELD a tang to anything. By virtue of welding two dissimilar materials together, you always have a weak area to deal with. Secondly, and most importantly, is you do weld a tang to anything........Anneal the whole thing to relieve stress before going any further on the project. Looking at what Don wrote, I'd bet a dollar to a dog biscut that's why the hairline crack appeared.

It might be a different point of view than some, but my methodology involves never having a hardened tang in a knife. I want that portion of the knife to be as tough and durable as it can be. It's also a rare thing for me to produce a full tang damascus blade. Of course being that I forge, I have the capability to forge my own damascus and the associated hidden tangs. One thing that I have noticed with many stock removal, hidden tang blades, is that the tangs tend to be squared and straight. There is strength and balance in flowing tapers. My hidden tangs taper in both dimensions from the blade/tang juncture, to the end of the tang.
This also give the added benifit of helping balance a knife. Blades that maintain their thickest portion at the riccaso, and taper in both directions from there, just can't help but come out balanced, provided the maker doesn't get carried away with big heavy guards and butt caps.
It's all part of what I call "The Overall Package". Each element must fit together to create the desired end product. Not only functionally, but balance and "feel" as well.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-07-2001, 12:42 AM
Steelej
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Tangs


To save damascus on full tang knives I forge in a distal taper on the tang as well as the blade (in opposite directions with the ricasso being the thickest part of the forging) but I split the tang and open the split so only a rim of damascus is left around the handle withe a little extra at each end to accomodate the scale rivets. I can't weld tangs on to save my life and this method is strong and easy as well as economical of hard earned damascus.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-07-2001, 10:29 AM
DC KNIVES
Guest
 
Posts: n/a

Thanks guy's,
When I weld a tang on,I keep the joint about 1" behind the guard and taper as you suggest.I do anneal the blade and after heat treating I differentially temper the blade.Thanks again for the help,Dave.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-08-2001, 10:41 PM
Geno
Guest
 
Posts: n/a

I don't usually weld tangs on, but it needs to be at least 1 1/2 deep in the handle for strength. A braze would be mre practical.
I sometimes thread a hole in the back of the Damascus and screw a tang in that threads the pommel on. You can also split and rivet a tang on without heat.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
blade, forge, forging, knife, knives


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

(View-All Members who have read this thread : 5
AGO, Barry Gardner, JGB206, LABlade, SDhammer
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:39 PM.




KNIFENETWORK.COM
Copyright © 2000
? CKK Industries, Inc. ? All Rights Reserved
Powered by ...

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
The Knife Network : All Rights Reserved