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Ed Caffrey's Workshop Talk to Ed Caffrey ... The Montana Bladesmith! Tips, tricks and more from an ABS Mastersmith.

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  #1  
Old 02-16-2001, 08:57 PM
gthomas
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5160 heat treat


Ed, I am getting ready to heat treat a 5160 blade that I forged. After forging I normalized it three times and and then annealed it. I have cleaned up the blade with files in preparation for hardening and wish to do some filework on the blade. There are a couple of points I want to make sure I'm clear on:

1) At this point I should normalize again at least three times, cooling to room temp between heats. Then I will do an edge quench, three times letting the blade cool in the oil at least 12 hours between heats. Then a triple draw in oven, two hours each time at 400-450 degrees, allowing the blade to cool to room temperature between draws. (If I understand correctly this follows closely the treatment for 52100). Have I got this sequencing and draw temps correct?

2) I'd also like to ask your advice on when you think it is the best time to do file work on the back of the blade, before or after differential hardening? Is there a danger of creating stress risers in the blade by doing file work before a differential hardening process, (seeing as the back of the blade remains relatively soft)?

Thanks for your help! -Guy Thomas
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Old 02-16-2001, 11:39 PM
Ed Caffrey
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Guy,
Everything looks good with the exception of the tempering temp. Try 350F. 400 will be way too soft when your done. I temper 5160 like you described, at 350F and 52100 at 375F.

I'd wait to do the filework after heat treating. The spine should be 38-40 Rc when your done, and filework will be easy. The other reason is that you won't have to go over the filework again (if you do it before heat treat, you'll have to clean it up afterwards)

Sounds like you've got the steps down! Let us know how it works out!
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Old 02-17-2001, 11:18 PM
gthomas
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5160 heat treat


Thanks Ed, I will definitly keep you posted on how this turns out. Truth to tell I may not be able to bring myself to try the filework on the knife. I have a seahorse patern that I worked out that looks great on scrap, but because of the distal taper of the blade, each seahorse would have to be scaled down slightly on the knife itself as you work toward the tip, which means freehand filing or working up a mathematical progression that would scale each seahorse down based on measurements from the first one. There probably is a computer program that would do this easily but maybe if I file a few dozen more of these things I'll be confident enough to just go ahead and file them!

-Guy Thomas
Thomas Knives
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