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The Newbies Arena Are you new to knife making? Here is all the help you will need. |
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#1
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Shark Knife
This design has been going around in my head for years. As a Scuba diver I have always carried a knife - even though I have rarely had need for one. This one is both fun as well as practical. 440C stainless blade, Corian grip. Even the pins are Corian. The sheath is moulded ABS plastic. It's a Christmas gift "for the diver who has everything" - except one of these...
It's different, I know. What do you think?? [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] The teeth are for cutting through fishing line, rope and kelp. The eye snaps into a spring-loaded stainless steel acorn nut in the sheath and locks the knife in place so it won't fall out if the diver is upside-down. __________________ Chris K. Two Mountains Forge Delta, BC, Canada www.twomountainsforge.com |
#2
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Well, I think it's the coolest dang thing I've seen lately. Congrats on a truly clever design....
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#3
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Are you sure this should be in the Newbies section? Because if you're really a newbie, I think I'll give up right now! Whatever, it's a truly brilliant knife, congratulations. Puts the 'fun' into functional.
I'll get my coat... |
#4
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Chris, that is just too much fun! And beautifully executed to boot! Love it!
Jim T |
#5
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Wow, I really like the design.
I wonder if a Trout knife would be possible, and as much fun as that one ? Great work! Jeff |
#6
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Quote:
Thanks for your enthusiastic responses! I'm going to make one of these for myself one day. Really liked working with Corian. This is a very interesting, easy to work with material, and the choices of colors and patterns is almost infinite. __________________ Chris K. Two Mountains Forge Delta, BC, Canada www.twomountainsforge.com |
#7
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Truly an amazing knife! I've always wanted to do an animal themed knife but could never conceptualize it.
The only thing I would offer is to fill in that eye hole. Maybe with a brass tube and then silver toned rod inside of that to maintain the eye look |
#8
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Shark Knife
Hi,
its a very cool Design, i like it. Andy __________________ ?Abenteuer = Das Ergebnis schlechter Planung. (Adventure is the result of poor planning.)? |
#9
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Thanks, Andy. Good to hear from you. Cpt-Jens, the eye actually has a purpose: it locks into a spring-loaded steel ball (top of an acorn nut) to keep the knife from falling out if the diver is upside-down. Also, as this is a salt water diving knife any mixture of metals - stainless with brass or bronze or silver - would cause electrolysis and the "eyeball" would probably fall out eventually.
__________________ Chris K. Two Mountains Forge Delta, BC, Canada www.twomountainsforge.com |
#10
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Hmm very interesting. I stand corrected. Thats a good reason to have a hole then. I've only had them in one knife and it got gunky and was tough to clean. Could you describe more the electrolysis?
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#11
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Okay, here's the armchair physicist's version: electrolysis happens when dissimilar metals (or other elements) are exposed to ion-carrying liquids (in some cases gases work, too), and the lesser of the metals in the galvanic table (a hierarchical arrangement of metals based on their reactivity) loses ions to the greater metals. In our case, if using brass as the eye ball, it would lose ions to the stainless steel, and eventually it would fall out. The salt water is the ion-carrying liquid. This is why they attach "sacrificial anodes" - big bars of zinc - to the metal parts of boats, because the brass prop, steel hull and fittings, engine block, etc are all incompatible metals which would corrode each other in salt water. This can happen in fresh water, too, just not as fast. The galvanic tables are long, but the most noteworthy metals, from the most resistant to the least resistant are gold at the top (actually it's graphite, but who uses it?), different grades of stainless steel in the middle, followed by brass, other stainless steels, nickel, copper, cast iron, steel, lead, zinc. 316 stainless is actually way up there, near gold, but it's not very hardenable to be used as a diver's knife. I used 440C, and its high carbon content may make it corrode faster. Haven't tried it yet. I have one diver's knife made from 316 I have carried for 20 years, and it is as good as new. I don't know how my shark knife will hold up. This is why I used Corian for the pins because I didn't want to introduce any other grade of metal into the mix, not even another grade of stainless. BTW electrolysis or anodization is what we use to etch our marks onto a knife, too. Same principle. I'm sure this is not a very scientifically accurate explanation, but hey, I'm a cook...
__________________ Chris K. Two Mountains Forge Delta, BC, Canada www.twomountainsforge.com Last edited by ckluftinger; 12-23-2011 at 09:16 AM. |
#12
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Hmm, very interesting. Is there any risk of this outside of salt or freshwater, say for a non-dive knife?
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#13
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Unfortunately, yes. I recently finished a skinner which was made of 5160 carbon steel, and soldered on a mild steel bolster. Some residue in the tanning of the sheath (I think) caused the dissimilar metals (solder is mostly zinc, and lead) to discolor the steel at the solder joint, even though I boiled the bejeebes out of it with dish soap and baking soda. never happened before, but I figured this is what it was. Back in my seafaring days I used to not solder any copper wires on board as they were prone to rot when exposed to the salt air. I only used galvanized crimp-on connectors, and even those could turn green in extremely wet locations like the bilge. In a dry environment where there are no aggravating substances like moisture, salt, acids or weird tanning liquid residue, this should not be a problem, though.
__________________ Chris K. Two Mountains Forge Delta, BC, Canada www.twomountainsforge.com |
#14
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Would silver solder have worked better?
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#15
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It was sta-brite, a silver-type solder I bought at a jewellry supply house. I don't know if there is something more suitable especially for knives. This has happened on several occasions where i find a tiny thread of corrosion around the solder joint, even though I boil the joint in a water solution of baking soda and dish soap to neutralize the flux. maybe it's the moisture in the air up here by the ocean. I'm currently working on a kitchen knife and I managed to make the ferrule tight enough that it won't need soldering. I'll just put some epoxy on the inside to seal out moisture from the crack. I've never been a big fan of soldering, and I will avoid it whenever I can. Brazing seems to work better and is less likely to corrode, but you need a lot more heat, which is sometimes not possible near the blade without ruining the hardness.
__________________ Chris K. Two Mountains Forge Delta, BC, Canada www.twomountainsforge.com |
Tags |
blade, brass, christmas, iron, knife, knives, pins, sheath, solder, stainless steel, supply, tanning |
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