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#1
09-25-2007, 11:32 AM
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First time using a coal forge
Up till now all my experience forging has been with propane. My wifes uncle gave me a portable buffalo forge with a hand crank blower. I want to give charcoal a try so i bought 2 20lb bags of lump hardwood charcoal.
I put some penetrating oil in the oil hole on the blower and it seems to work good. What type of oil should i use for general maint? Should i make a hood for it there are beakets to hold one? Any info that would help me get going would be greatly appreciated! Here are a couple of photos of the forge. Thanks Bob  
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#2
09-25-2007, 11:48 AM
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The main things are that you will need to line the pan with an isolator or refractory and make the ducks nest as deep as possible for "charcoal". Those types of forges were designed specifically for mineral "coal".
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#3
09-25-2007, 12:02 PM
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Thanks Tai i will search around and see what i can come up with!
Bob
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#4
09-25-2007, 12:43 PM
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You should consider putting an extended rim, for depth, around the pan and lining the whole thing with refractory. I'd recommend either wood ash or a ceramic body for the lining. For charcoal, the dusks nest should be at least 8 inches deep or so.
Charcoal does have some definite advantages over propane, for certain applications. You will find it much more flexible and versatile. It's nice to have both... 
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#5
09-25-2007, 05:29 PM
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The racing wheels are a bonus
__________________ Happy Hammering, wear safety glasses. Gene Chapman Oak and Iron Publishing www.oakandiron.com/
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#6
09-25-2007, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
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#7
09-26-2007, 03:51 AM
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Second look, the table to the right is nice too, also the sheet metal under neath the forge, put a bucket on it to catch the clinkers and gradoo.
__________________ Happy Hammering, wear safety glasses. Gene Chapman Oak and Iron Publishing www.oakandiron.com/
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#8
09-26-2007, 05:53 AM
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Thanks Gene i decided not to alter this one and make an insulated forge from a giant turkey roastpan.
Bob
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#9
09-26-2007, 08:07 AM
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Good score!
 I'd use bar and chain oil or ATF in the blower. You want at least an inch of oil in the bottom of the housing, enough so that it leaks a bit out the bearings when cranked. The side shelf is nice! Originally that had a straight-sided sheet metal shell about two feet tall that contracted to a 4" stovepipe hole at the top. Those usually rust away pretty quick.
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| forge, forging |
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