heat coloring Titanium??

[B. Buxton]

I'm new to this folder stuff and I'm sure this has been answered several times before, but this is the first time I've asked . Anyway, when heat coloring ti to a nice purple/blue, will this temperture affect the stiffness in the ti and mess up the lock strength? Also does the heat coloring hold up well? I figure on popping the liners in the oven at about 500 or so, I'll do a test piece first, to try and establish temp and color.

Thanks for any help,

Bill

[Ray Rogers]

I don't think the heat will adversely affect the ti. Heat coloring has been discussed before but I don't recall any discussion of the affects on the 'temper' of the ti so I'm guessing it isn't significant. As for how well it will hold up, it is an oxidation layer just like you get with anodizing. Although it could be a little thicker it still isn't very rugged.....

[B. Buxton]

thanks ray

Bill

[AUBE]

nah it wont change the springyness a noticeable amount. heat coloring titanium creates a much longer lasting finish than electrical anodizing. neither hold up well under wear but the heat coloring wins hands down.

-Jason Aube

[B. Buxton]

Thank you Jason.

Bill

[justice]

i have herd that heat coloring acualy helps the lock last longer. i think on buck strider folders thay heats just the lock area of the liner to cut down on wear and those are titanium. i think it also makes the rc a few points higher.

...justin

[rhrocker]

Bill, why not set up for anodizing? It's simple using Bob Warners tutorial, and the color range is nice, and fairly controlable. On the other hand, I couldn't blame you for not wanting to mess with the wiring, voltage, finding a Variac and so on. I put one together during the summer and have enjoyed messing with it. I also reccomend Peter Atwoods video on the subject. Of course, if you were wanting to know about anodizing, I realize you would have asked a question about it. Don't mean to babble, but it is a neat addition to my folder projects.

[AUBE]

heat treating titanium will raise the rc and make it stronger (by about 20% for 6al4v) but you need higher temperatures than what is used for most heat coloring...i cant remember the exact number but i think to heat treat you need to hit 1,500ish degrees then quick quench it.

electrical anodizing does create a wider range of colors and you can do effects that arent possible with heat...but it is much more fragile of a coating. personally i use both depending on the application. if you do try electrical anodizing make sure you do some work with anodize brushes..can get really neat effects that way.

-Jason Aube

[Belstain]

I was under the impresion that the color was directly related to the thickness of the oxidation. I don't think it matters how you get the colors. a blue from heating or anodizing is going to be the same thickness therefore just durable. With heat though you can take it up to really high temps to make the oxide layer way thicker than is practical with electricity but it will be a dull gray color.

[AUBE]

i dont know the exact science behind it but from personal experience having 2 pieces with the same shade of blue, the heat colored one will outlast the anodized one. i used to own a small body jewelry supply company and we did a few 10's of thousands pieces of titanium jewelry with different finishes...the heat colored always outlasted. why? i dunno.

as a trial take two small pieces of Ti. heat color one, anodize the other(both to one of the first colors in the spectrum like bronze or dark purple to make the test easier)...then rub it vigorously against a ruff piece of denim. on small pieces like a CBR earring the anodizing will wear off very rapidly and the heated one should last longer. the wear factor is more pronounced when the person has both types of finish on their jewelry in their piercing and they come back a month later and one has faded to grey and the other is still going strong.

yes you are right that the color is dependent on the thickness of the oxidation (its actually a clear coating)different thicknesses yield different perceived colors. i dont hav a clue why they wear differently, maybe the coating is denser? the crystals formed differently?

-Jason Aube

[Gary Mulkey]

Bill,

Something that I have thought about trying and haven't gotten around to is coloring with a torch in a pattern. I have a friend who does this with copper and I have long wondered if it would work with Ti. He adjusts the torch flame very narrow and runs it parallel to the piece, picks it up and replaces it to get various patterns. If you want to play sometime you may want to try this. Let me know if it works out.

Gary

[Belstain]

I've found with heat coloring Ti that after heating it through the full color spectrum it will turn gray then it goes through the whole spectrum again just not as clear and bright then back to gray again. Bright colors the first time through then kind of muted mixed colors the second time. Ti is weird stuff for sure.

[fitzo]

The same things happens with electro-anodizing. Two sets of color spectrum, the second more muted than the first.

[titaniumdoctor]

I think the original question was something to do with losing properties from the metal when heat colored. Don't worry about it it. You'll be fine whether you anodize or heat color. As a matter of fact, you can easily heat treat the locking face of your liner by heating it to a cherry red and letting it air cool. Then buff off the oxides around the face. Leave the oxide layer on the face of the lock, as that is what is making it hard. Super hard!!!

Good luck my friends, Jeremy