Tips, Tricks of the trade, etc.?

[Larry Peterson]

This discussion brings up another related issue about belts. I like to order 10 belts at a time, and usually they arrive within two or three days. I started grinding knives on a regular basis in 1970 and have never had a problem getting the belts shipped in a timely manner. "However" I have about 50 or 60 used belts hanging on the shop wall. I don't use them! Harvey Draper had several hundred hanging in the north end of his "chicken coop shop." Maybe they satisfy some primal need to be safe, just in case something would happen to cut off the supply.

I would be interested to know if anyone else "squirls away" belts, "just in case?"

"All the Indians in South America walk in a straight line, at least the one I saw did"

Larry Peterson

[Steve]

Grat to hear from you, Larry. Welcome to the forum.
I always have 20 or so old belts, just in case. Have, more than once, had to used old belts while awaiting arrival of a new shipment, when I HAD to grind a blade, finish a handle and had no belts in better cutting condition. Never 100's, but always a few. I remember Harvey Drapers "stash" hanging on the wall.

[Larry Peterson]

If I May,

I would like to share a little technique I use to keep from loosing solder down the tang when attaching the guard on the hidden tang blade. After fitting and making sure everything is ready to go, I wrap the tang under the guard with several (lots)of layers of aluminum foil. I then place the knife in the vice so it has clearance down under the tang to go down further. I close the vice till it is a snug fit against the aluminum foil and place a piece of soft pine up on the tip of the knife. I then carefully tap the pine straight down and at the same time close the vive jaws a little at a time until I have a tight fit. After making sure the blade is straight up and down and the guard is exactly where I want it, I tighten the vice to the final tight. The jaws are on the aluminum and now I can reflux and solder the guard.

The guard is held right in place and no axcess solder can run out the bottom and down the tang. I use a little electronic de-solder wire to absorb any excess solder. A puff of water from the spray bottle and the knife is ready to dunk into the Hydrogen oxide (H2O) and go to the next stage of production.

I hope this tip is of some use to someone.

Best wishes, Larry Peterson

[Steve]

That sounds like it really works well, Larry.
Thanks!

[Rog]

About 30 years ago I put a 1X6 across the bottom of my reloading bench, tight to the floor. Ain't lost nothing since. Use that trick on all my work benches, and the rug on the floor works good to. Leave about an inch gap between the rug and the 1X6, stuff seems to land and get caught there.

[Steve]

Thank you, Rog, that makes a lot of sense. Those little parts always bounce once, or twice, 'BEFORE" hiding under the work bench!

[Steve]

So, when was the last time you got ready to use that belt one more time and burned the edge, or something like that, or - since they cost so much - use that "brand new" one that you have had in storage for 5 yrs. - and it broke, putting you and your knife in danger? Or...as in my case more than once, tired to get one more "etch" out of that trademark stencil. I did it tonight. On top of it being an old stencil, it was also probably more used than it should have been before being thrown away. Well, I did it, and ended up grinding and polishing the messed-up logo out, getting out a new stencil and re-etching the knife! Yes, I had that little voice, or thought that says, "Don't use that old stencil." But I ignored it and ended up getting that new stencil out, anyway. Then there is the late night work. I get to a point where if I keep plugging on, no matter how tired I am I'm risking safety as well as ability. Too tired is too tired! Lesson: If you think it, follow that prompt, 'cause it usually right. It's a lot easier, cheaper, safer and less frustrating, to forget about the cost, which is usually minimal, anyway, or stopping while you're still ahead and going to bed and, "Follow that feeling." I'm sure many of you know what I'm talking about. If it doesn't feel good, DON'T DO IT! (To paraphrase an old '60's theme). Hope this made some sense - and also that it saves someone some frustration.

[Larry Peterson]

You made my day!

I'm glad to hear that someone besides myself, has "set backs." Yesterday I was blanking out a knife to show a new maker how fast I could do it. "Showing off!" My KMG has a three 3 horsepower motor and I was using all it had to "claw out" the profile. Usually I tape my finger joints so I can detect the 36 grit belt before it "gets me." I didn't do it this time and sure enough, it bit me. The good thing is that the skin always grows out nice and pink and smooth.

Im really having a hard time throwing out my old belts. I have found that it is easier to cut the belt so as to keep from getting it back out of the garbage can! I threw away three belts yesterday. That leaves about 50 or so still on the wall. I think it has something to do with having parents that went through "The Great Depression."

Thanx Steve, ....Larry Peterson

[Steve]

While polishing a wilderness blade last night on the 8" wheel, I got to the 400x cork and noticed that there were just a couple of "kind of deep" scratches on one bevel. I thought the cork belt could handle it, so I kept on and on, making little or no progress. Finally I just took the cork belt off, jumped back to the 400x tractor belt and got rid of them in just a few seconds. I'd spent about 10 times longer trying to get the cork belt to do what is is not designed to do. The coarser belt, though I had to stop the machine and change belts, did the job, quickly and easily. I keep on learning on this job, it seems! Don't fight it, just do it right and save time and frustration!

[Larry Peterson]

I must admitt to experiencing frustration going from cork to buffer. I use a 400, 600, and 1000 cork before buffing. They look so good until the first pass over the buffer. Then the back and forth starts and it is very time consuming. I agree with you about the 400 cork not being the most correct way to get those pesky scratches out. I use the trizack belts, finishing down to "30" but am going back to adding a 400 ceramic to try to get out those little valley scratches. I guess if it were easy, everybody would be producing mirror finishes. Thanx for sharring. I feel better now!

Larry Peterson

[Steve]

Try a 50-60x to grind, then a new 400x Trizact "Tractor" belt, then go over it again, once that belt is a bit worn (after 4-5 blades), then on to the 400x cork, then 1000 cork. It works every time, unless you get lazy and try to go too fast and don't get every scratch out with every step.

[SHostetler]

Steve,
I've heard of 3M's Gator belts, but what is the Tractor belt?

Thanks
Steve Hostetler

[Steve]

I guess it's the same belt. I call it the "tractor" because of the "tread." Sorry.
http://www.knifeandgun.com/ProductDe...uctCode=TZA160
Most, if not all suppliers have them, but Knife and Gun has a photo at the above link.

[TexasJack]

I have a hard time throwing away old belts. If there's ANY grit left on it, I figure I might use it for something. Time and time again, I've tried using an old belt for something and ended up tossing it because it really was worn out. I could probably reduce some serious clutter to just trash a few.

[SHostetler]

Steve,
Thanks for the info. I already have some and love them.

Steve Hostetler